This is would be course signed hole #17 if there was a sign. Sign is missing, but each hole leads right to the next so it is obvious, teepad for 17 is to the right of the basket of 16.
Throw overstable / hyzer for the dogleg left and you should be in good shape on this short hole.
This hole #17 actually equates on the course to signed hole F, which is part of the whole 24 holes. Real signed hole #17 is #23.
This hole has a second TeePad of dirt with marked flags and a 2x4 board marking the end of the run-up.
If throwing a RHFH or BH anhyzer don't pull it hard, even though this hole doesn't say water, there is a marsh that will eat your disc if you had a real bad toss or a bad rebound off a tree.
This hole #16 actually equates on the course to signed hole E, which is part of the whole 24 holes. Real signed hole #16 is #22.
This hole has a second TeePad of dirt with marked flags and a 2x4 board marking the end of the run-up.
If throwing a RHFH or BH anhyzer don't pull it hard, there is a marsh that will eat your disc.
This hole #15 actually equates on the course to signed hole D, which is part of the whole 24 holes. Real signed hole #15 is #21.
This hole has a second TeePad of dirt with marked flags and a 2x4 board marking the end of the run-up.
This hole #14 actually equates on the course to signed hole C, which is part of the whole 24 holes. Real signed hole #14 is #20.
This hole has a second TeePad of dirt with marked flags and a 2x4 board marking the end of the run-up.
The longer concrete pad has a break at the end of the run which is needed on this longer hole, adjust your run-up.
This hole has major elevation changes, down off teepad, then back up, find your lane and get a good drive to clear this gap otherwise you'll be driving fully again.
Take extra time inspecting your driving lanes, there are smaller trees that have sprung up since design and they have impeded the initial thoughts. Hole is one a buck something but with all those little suckers an extra seconds identifying will help get you the bird.