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What's a good disc for a LHBH to go left?

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Apr 13, 2017
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Hello. I'm new here. I'm trying to find a good disc that will go to the left at the end of the flight. I'm LHBH so my throws all go right at the end. I realize this is supposed to happen, but I read there are discs I can use to make it go left.

The course I play at has a lot of holes that bend left, so the disc ends in the trees when it curves right at the end. I'm not an overly strong thrower so I know I need the first speed number to be lower.

I've used Google but I can't find a good disc anyone recommends. People will throw numbers and throwing terminology out, but no one gives any disc names.

Anyone willing to help?
 
For short throws (approach shots mostly), I just use a neutral disc thrown on an anhyzer line. I also like to do this with over-stable putters to get them to flatten out and not roll (the so-called flex shot).

For times when I want the disc to do the work, I like the Fuse or Tursus for mid-range shots. For drivers, the Hatchet has been my go-to for shots that need to hold that left line for a while. I've also used the Diamond and Prodigy F8.

Of course, others will tell you to throw LHFH, which is probably better advice in the long-term. Being an old dog, I am having trouble learning that.....
 
First of all, I'm a noob here. However, I am also lefthanded and have been looking for this type disc myself. I have been stuck using an Innova Mamba which requires a pretty hard throw to work properly. It moves left gradually in flight and then either falls straight or drops off to the right a little bit. If you do not get the speed required it will just break right early (hyzer).

I recently purchased a road runner and side winder which both have similar flights to the mamba but require less speed and are more thrower-friendly. I do not believe there is a disc that will fall left without some special technique throw. As previously stated, this is the flight path for a left hand forehand throw but I haven't developed that one yet myself. Good Luck!
 
I'm also new but Wombat seems great, even when I hyzerflip it mid range power it will flip with good glide to get some distance. :)

Ps, great at flipping.
 
A leopard will turn over if you learn how to throw it. An underworld is another good driver option. For mids maybe a tursas, mako, dx cobra maybe. Putters, a swan 1 reborn or really beat up Aviar are legit.

What are you throwing and how far?
 
Depending on lots of other factors, id second the leopard. Pretty easy to get one to turn.
 
Leopard, Comet, Meteor, Stratus... many options. Some that I haven't thrown: Tursas, Fuse, Mongoose come to mind.

The key is going to be mastering the throw for consistency. I'd also recommend working on a LHFH if possible.
 
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A latitude diamond is by far the easiest disc for me to flip , they come in light weights and that makes them very easy to overspeed. But try to learn overhand also it will finish left for you.
 
Diamond is a good recommendation, also look for a 150-class Roadrunner. I use it (RHBH) to go right, so we're looking at (basically) the same flight path, just flipped.

It will turn for me, even in a tailwind.

-edit- I max out at 350', generously, on a good pull, in ideal conditions.
 
My Dad is LHFH dominant so I might be able to shed some light as I have had to help him learn the BH. As a RHBH and RHFH player myself I can definitely say to learn to FH! If FH isn't an option, the Lat 64 Diamond and Jade (lighter weights) as well as the River and Maul (more traditional weights), Innova's Sidewinder, Roadrunner, and Leopard (they all come in 150gram weights), Discraft's Xpress and Heat, Dynamic's Breakout and Witness, Westside's Hatchet, Vibram's Onyx, and Legacy's Patriot are all understable fairway drivers that should go left (LHBH). Any disc that has a fairly low speed number (<10) and a turn (3rd number) rating of -2 or higher should go left if you are throwing > 250'. The lighter and slower a disc is the more likely it is to stay left of center thrown LHBH.
 
Diamond is a good recommendation, also look for a 150-class Roadrunner. I use it (RHBH) to go right, so we're looking at (basically) the same flight path, just flipped.

It will turn for me, even in a tailwind.

-edit- I max out at 350', generously, on a good pull, in ideal conditions.

Ideal conditions: Downhill with a strong tail wind.:D

To OP: Try a Discraft Glide.
 
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Slow (much slower than a Mamba), understable molds (or used discs that have the stability beaten out of them) are what you're looking for. Being new, I wouldn't even use a Mamba. Something like an Archangel would probably get you there the fastest if you're looking for a driver.
 
Slow (much slower than a Mamba), understable molds (or used discs that have the stability beaten out of them) are what you're looking for. Being new, I wouldn't even use a Mamba. Something like an Archangel would probably get you there the fastest if you're looking for a driver.

This, and baseline plastic like Innova's DX will beat in quickly and become flippy. Even something like a max weight DX Beast would work. And learning to fh would help, but the fh finish can be more aggressive than you want on some shots.
 
The TLDR version: Learn Left hand forehand or right hand backhand. If you can't/don't want to do this, get a Mako3, TL, and/or Sidewinder in fairly light weights.

I'm LHBH primarily, and the truth is... nothing does what you want it to do.

NOTHING will fade left at the end of its flight for left hand backhand. They either won't fade or will fade right.

The first, and absolutely BEST solution is to learn either left hand forehand or right hand backhand to add to your shot repertoire.

The only other thing is to get a disc that holds anhyzer. But understand, EVERY disc has a speed at which it's going to start fading. The only question is can you put it on the ground before it does. And oh, yeah, put it on the ground flat enough or with so little energy that it doesn't become a cut roller.

For short to midrange anhyzers, I use a Champion Mako3. It almost always holds to anhyzer line to the ground. If it starts to fade, it's so gradual that it usually lands flat. My hubby has good luck with a slightly beat in stingray in DX. For longer anhyzers, I use a Star TL and hubby uses a Lucid Witness. For very long anhyzers, I use a Starlite Sidewinder.

The problem, in my opinion, is that anhyzer shots are much less predictable. Getting the energy right to land it without it becoming a cut roller is iffy.

So, I generally avoid anhyzer shots when i can. You would be extremely well served to develop either your left hand forehand or right hand backhand for shots that you want to go left.
 
The TLDR version: Learn Left hand forehand or right hand backhand. If you can't/don't want to do this, get a Mako3, TL, and/or Sidewinder in fairly light weights.

I'm LHBH primarily, and the truth is... nothing does what you want it to do.

NOTHING will fade left at the end of its flight for left hand backhand.

If you throw something understable flat (without overpowering it) and keep it down, you can get turn without fade as it will land before it can fade back right (for a lefty).
 
I'm LHBH primarily, and the truth is... nothing does what you want it to do.

Nothing will do that off the shelf. It is entirely possible to season a disc to have a late turn and drift/fade left. It's not easy to get the disc to that point, but it's definitely feasible.
 
If you throw something understable flat (without overpowering it) and keep it down, you can get turn without fade as it will land before it can fade back right (for a lefty).

Which I SAID in my previous post.

"But understand, EVERY disc has a speed at which it's going to start fading. The only question is can you put it on the ground before it does."
 
Nothing will do that off the shelf. It is entirely possible to season a disc to have a late turn and drift/fade left. It's not easy to get the disc to that point, but it's definitely feasible.

Can you show me an example of this shot being done? Because, unless you're talking about a hyzer that flips beyond flat, what you're describing seems to fly in the face of all of my understanding of the physics of golf discs. How exactly does one NOT flip a disc at it's highest energy (on release) and yet overpower its stability LATE in a throw, when it's lower energy?
 
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