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[Innova] Looking to get a Destroyer and have a few questions

pineappletrees

Eagle Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2011
Messages
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Location
Kansas City, MO
I'm looking at picking up a Destroyer for my wide open "max distance" shots and am very confused about the different molds. What were the "bad" molds I hear about so often? Is a Vulcan top good or bad and how can I tell if I have one? What is a SDS Destroyer? Is flat or domey better? Thanks!
 
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I'm looking at picking up a Destroyer for my wide open "max distance" shots and am very confused about the different molds. What were the "bad" molds I hear about so often? Is a Vulcan top good or bad and how can I tell if I have one? What is a SDS Destroyer? Is flat or domey better? Thanks!

a better question is, why choose a destroyer when there is a boss
 
I'm looking at picking up a Destroyer for my wide open "max distance" shots and am very confused about the different molds. What were the "bad" molds I hear about so often? Is a Vulcan top good or bad and how can I tell if I have one? What is a SDS Destroyer? Is flat or domey better? Thanks!

vulcan top is bad if you want a destroyer with the best combo of glide and stability. before anyone takes the time to answer questions, we should probably know what you throw now and how far you throw it.
 
My current lineup is in my signature. I throw my PD and Teebird around 350. My CE Valks probably go farther, but not as consistently.
 
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If you've never thrown one I wouldn't worry about it too much. Most of the chatter about it has to do with preference, not whether one is "better"

go buy a new one and decide how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. Flat tops have less fade, domey top has more. Vulcan top is a little less stable. Pro destroyer is probably the best fit though if it's your first one
 
if you are getting pds to 350 then a destroyer might be a good step up. sds, *d, *ds and any other stuff like that refers to the ink written on the nipple at the factory. people often use this the differentiate between runs. i ignore it however because ive seen destroyers of all types with all different markings. general rule of thumb with star destroyers is more domey equals more overstable and flatter ones will be less stable. i like mine right in between but have some domey ones for better wind fighting. if i were you id start with a couple pro destroyers. they start overstable but they beat into bombing wonderfulness and can be hyzer flipped pretty easily. if you are really happy with them then grab a couple stars and get a feel for which ones you like. i would avoid vulcan topped destroyers, they are less stable and have less glide, they are just dumb.
 
Destroyer FAQ's:

1. What plastics do Destroyers come in?

DX, Pro, Champion, Champion Glow (CFR), Star, and Echo Star. There are also many
more limited runs of destroyers such a Night Shift, Special Blend, AJ Star, etc. Innova loves to experiment with this mold. There are many blends of champion/star and of different star polymers out there that make them feel very different but they're typically just stamped with the production star plastic stamp.


2. What do the different markings for Star Destroyers mean (S/DS, *DS, etc.)?

There is a contested/debated theory as to whether the different markings (i.e. SDS vs *DS) have significance. Though more people believe that the differentiation is intentional, as in more than just two ways to note "star" plastic, there is not a consensus as to what the differences are or how closely they correlate to the markings. Some say it is as simple as two different people who mark the discs have different ways of noting, some believe they distinguish runs of the disc chronologically, and some believe it distinguishes runs of the disc by polymer composition.

3. What is a "Vulcan Top" aka "Destrulcan"?

Prior to the release of the TeeDevil as a separate mold, Innova molded up some Destroyers with a top/wing of one of their at-the-time new discs - the Vulcan. The Vulcan is different because the disc makes a sharp "corner" as you follow the profile from the edge to the center. Innova did not stamp these differently at first, and so you havve some destroyers that are actually what would later be made a separate mold and called TeeDevils. Innova has used this new top-piece to mold up another disc, the Archon, which utilized the vulcan top and a wraith bottom.

4. What type of Destroyer is most ____ (overstable/understable/durable/etc.)?

Another hotly debated topic. The typically accepted guidelines are as follows:

Understable ---> Overstable (by plastic)
DX | Pro | Echo Star | Star | Champion | Champion Glow

Note that there are exceptions to this order, so take as an in-general guideline only and not a guarantee.

As far as *DS vs SDS vs...it's a crapshoot. The only thing for sure is that a Vulcan-Top/Destrulcan/TeeDevil will beat in to be more understable or flippy than a regular destroyer. Some TeeDevils start more understable, but some start just as overstable/beefy as their non-vulcan-topped counterparts. There's no guarantee. Many vulcan-tops have a good bit of flashing on the edges of the rim, and I've personally noticed that removing that flashing significantly and immediately changes their flight.



There's much more/different of an answer to each question depending on who you ask, but I tried to reduce speculation in hopes that this could be a reference for people with the same question. I also invite anyone to add/change this as necessary to keep it current/correct.
 
How can I tell if it is a Vulcan top in the store? I just want to avoid purchasing one.

the best way is to have a vulcan in hand and compare it to a destroyer. side by side they look very different. if you dont have a vulcan to compare it to then think of it like this...on a vulcan, draw a straight line on an angle from the tip of the rim to a point where the dome begins. a destroyer top will look more similar to your pd with the rounded area near the rim tip. that might not explain it well but its the best i can do. maybe someone has profile pics...
 
Vulcan top is likely a flat angular shoulder from the nose
whereas a regular Destroyer should have a gently rounded shoulder

also if you are at a physical store that has Vulcans compare the Destroyer to the Vulcan
 
white is a regular star destroyer, green is an echo star with the vulcan top
 

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How about I sell you my DX, Pro, and Champ Destroyers at 175gm and you can see what you like and not like.

I dont use them at all and prob need a good home.

Can trade if you want.
 
For pure D, go with domey Pro plastic one. After that if you like it you can try other plastics.
 
JTacoma03 pretty much summed it - nicely done.

Like most discs - there is no guarantee that a certain plastic will be flippy. I have 2 170 Pro Destroyers, one is flippy-ish and one is more overstable. In addition, I throw a Teedevil (168) - which is a flippy mother. In the end, I like that they are "technically' the same mold on the bottom, so same feel - the mindset of throwing like or same molds. Pick up both...you can never have enough discs. :)
 
i have thrown pro, star, and champ destroyers. the pro to me was way to flippy. the champ is very domey and very overstable. my 2 star destroyers are my go to for distance. both of my star destroyers are flat top, beat in and fly straight and dont have have tons of fade.

that is what my boss is for. it always comes back for me, and if i need a disc to skip, my boss will skip.

like others have said, get some and go throw.

good luck.
 
white is a regular star destroyer, green is an echo star with the vulcan top

Thanks for posting the profile pic. I have a tourney stamped *DS as well as a Vulcan so I'll be looking at those more closely later. I also have 2 *Archons, one being a protostar. I rather like the Archons because I'm a Wraith fan. Makes sense that they have the same bottom.
 
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white is a regular star destroyer, green is an echo star with the vulcan top

wow...i love that innova says these are molded in the same mold....i mean come on...

great picture....


Innova please make destroyers again. with the correct mold.
 
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