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[Question] BEAT IN DISC?

Pirate35

Newbie
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
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7
I see a lot of people referring to a disc as "beat in". Im assuming that it means a disc that has been used and broken in, but what changes in the flight of a disc when it is beat in?
 
For example you take a disc that starts out with no or little turn but fades back reliably at the end. Weeks or months later(depending on plastic) it will develop that beautiful mid flight turn but keep its fade at the end giving you max distance s curve shots.
 
For example you take a disc that starts out with no or little turn but fades back reliably at the end. Weeks or months later(depending on plastic) it will develop that beautiful mid flight turn but keep its fade at the end giving you max distance s curve shots.

Or, you have a disc that loses low speed stability, and always fades forward.
 
If you are familiar with the numbers on a disc like on innova (10 4 2 2) the last 2 numbers are the turn and fade. You'll always achieve the fade but the turn is where the disc needs "breaking in". I suppose pros don't have many issues but I deff need a break in period. For example, I bought a brand new beast in star plastic, I've made only a hand full of real good throws with it but I found the same disc in the drink and you flew like a dream. Laser line and nice S-ing. The disc is probably a few yrs old and I hope the owner looks in the lost and found. My local course donates them at the end of the season.
 
If you are familiar with the numbers on a disc like on innova (10 4 2 2) the last 2 numbers are the turn and fade. You'll always achieve the fade but the turn is where the disc needs "breaking in". I suppose pros don't have many issues but I deff need a break in period. For example, I bought a brand new beast in star plastic, I've made only a hand full of real good throws with it but I found the same disc in the drink and you flew like a dream. Laser line and nice S-ing. The disc is probably a few yrs old and I hope the owner looks in the lost and found. My local course donates them at the end of the season.

that is not correct. take a stalker or buzz for instance. they lose a good amount of their fade once seasoned.
 
that is not correct. take a stalker or buzz for instance. they lose a good amount of their fade once seasoned.

Umm, what's incorrect about what I said? Are you saying that on a RHBH, you'll loose all fade all together and your seasoned buzz will go 100% straight with zero fade?? Don't buzzes have like zero stability, or .5? I think that would make the disc have very little fade in the first place. Wasn't the topic about "breaking in" discs? Before the disc is "seasoned" it'll always achieve the fade.
 
Umm, what's incorrect about what I said? Are you saying that on a RHBH, you'll loose all fade all together and your seasoned buzz will go 100% straight with zero fade?? Don't buzzes have like zero stability, or .5? I think that would make the disc have very little fade in the first place. Wasn't the topic about "breaking in" discs? Before the disc is "seasoned" it'll always achieve the fade.

oops i think i read it wrong. sorry i thought you said once its broken in it will always achieve its normal fade.
 
The turn, fade, glide,speed etc all change with a seasoned disc I'm sure but the discussion was on new discs and breaking them in.
 
oops i think i read it wrong. sorry i thought you said once its broken in it will always achieve its normal fade.

It's probably my bad, I Wasn't that clear I think. But like you said, once beat in the numbers are off, way off in some cases. I've retired 2 discs this year that I bought this year. Both dx plastics, became too flippy but they make fun rollers.
 
I'm really not experienced enough to be a disc expert, but can submit this for the original poster:

I have a dx Roc (Ontario mold) that was supposed to be stable 'out of the box' (4,4,0,3), but has found enough trees (and rocks, and pavement :eek:) in its three year lifespan to become my reliable anny floater (rhbh). If I need a 200-250' shot to drift and finish consistently left to right, that's what I grab.

Now, for a dead straight, gentle fade midrange shot, I have a CryZtal Buzzz I've thrown for about 18 months. The much more durable plastic started out with a slight turn and soft fade, and has barely beaten in with daily use.

I like star plastic for my fairway driver (Teebird, 7,5,0,2), and distance driver (Tern, 12,6,-4,2), and it beats in faster than the CryZtal but a lot more slowly than the baseline stuff.

But, like I said, I'm still experimenting with plastic, molds, and learning how the flight characteristics change over time, use, and abuse. It's kind of a fun (and sometimes frustrating) aspect of disc golf. Now if I could only figure out how to keep my old bones from feeling beaten in from the amount I'd really like to play! :p
 
Last edited:
LSS is for chumps.

I have fresh Comets that fly pretty similar to a beat Roc (LSS beat out of the Roc). So I don't need beat discs to get that line. However, I have a trashed Flick ... that nothing in the world compares to. It flips like a Stratus, and fades like a Flick. They just don't make a -5,5 disc.
 
I have fresh Comets that fly pretty similar to a beat Roc (LSS beat out of the Roc). So I don't need beat discs to get that line. However, I have a trashed Flick ... that nothing in the world compares to. It flips like a Stratus, and fades like a Flick. They just don't make a -5,5 disc.

i had a trashed dx firebird that turned over like a stratus and still came back for a hard bite it was pretty fun to throw
 

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