Huntingtonhyzers Bag.

[HuntingtonHyzer]

Background: 3 years of recreational playing. Just recently starting to figure out my form. Putters 250-280 Rocs 270-315 Valk 310-340 P-PD 320-350. Really trying searching for my distance and control drivers, so I haven't really worried about overlap or anything yet. Please suggest anything as I am open to any and all suggestions.

Overstable:
164 Z Predator: Headwind Driver
170 ESP Pred: Forehand Driver (not used often)

Drivers:
166 PPD: main open distance
167 CHTBrd: Control Distance Still pretty stable
168 CHTBrd: Hyzerflip. Beat but still solidly predictable
174 JKValk: Turnover Distance Driver (looove this disc)
175 TPCyclone: Beat. This disc is just dependable but doesnt seem to have the distance of teebird/valk
166 ESPCyclone: Good long s flight pattern with a soft stable finish.

Mids:
175 Z comet: Touch shots/anny shots
180 DX Rnch Roc: Beat to perfection. Straight for days.
175 Z buzz: Just won in league haven't gotten to throw yet.
175 Star Gator: Stable Headwind upshots

Putters:
2x 175 S wizards: Main putters LOVE them
175 KC Aviar: Driving putter. Just a comfort thing. Ace Disc. Eventually will be replaced by a wizard.

 

[JR]

You get so much distance with putters and mids that i wonder why your drivers don't fly farther. So is it a nose up issue? If it is that should change first because the PD is one of the least effected drivers. If you get more nose down and distance that changes how the discs fly for you flight line wise so we need to know how they fly and what changes you want dictates the suggestions.

 

[HuntingtonHyzer]

Im pretty sure its a nose up issue and i have been trying like crazy to fix it but just cant seem to figure it out. I have felt it a few times. The drivers usually want to climb and stall out at that 330 range. What would be some good discs to really work on getting the nose down? Also any tips to get nose down...I have read and re read everything on this site but feel like there is something im missing somewhere.

 

[JR]

For now don't switch discs switch form. Have you tried each of these together? Wrist down using as much forearm muscle effort as possible, raising the rear of the disc above the seam of the hand up to inner joint of the thumb and every variation in between, putting the nose of the disc down with fewer fingers in the disc if necessary (stretching helps finger dexterity), pull height between the navel and the nipples, thumb forward and pushing down with the finger print, leaning a little forward at the hit, a little higher reach back than the rip without worm burning? And another take on muscle usage: Taking the disc in the grip you use now what happens if you extend the arm straight at the target and you loosen up the forearm as much as you can? The wrist should drop down and if you start the throw like that it can help but you need to actively push the wrist down hard in the end because the bones of the wrist raise the hand going from bent back to straight.

Version 2: Hyper spin. If you actively resist hard against the bending back of the wrist and extend the wrist to the right of neutral 5-10 degrees and do a hard steely stop of the wrist and pinch the disc if it is a driver. Not so much pinch but a controlled slip for mids and putters for clean releases without wobble if you have finger sticking or drag issues. Those are most likely more common to people with small hands and fingers with tall beaded discs.

 

[HuntingtonHyzer]

Played in my league tonight. Moved disc above parting line and changed my grip a little. Finally felt the disc pivot and nose down. Valk was hyzer flipping and turning over and going 340-360. Tee bird was flat, low and getting 360 plus! Had a few field drives over 400. Thinking that if I keep this up I'm ready to add a true distance driver...looking at destroyers...opinion?

Thanks for the help JR.

 

[plex]

to keep a level flight path i usually raise my arm up higher, and pull the disc across my body just above or right at my pectoral area. remember you want to pull the disc through and not around your body.. keeping in mind your pulling the disc along the path you want it to fly, so raise your arm up to create a more level path to pull that disc along.

 

[turso]

Played in my league tonight. Moved disc above parting line and changed my grip a little. Finally felt the disc pivot and nose down. Valk was hyzer flipping and turning over and going 340-360. Tee bird was flat, low and getting 360 plus! Had a few field drives over 400. Thinking that if I keep this up I'm ready to add a true distance driver...looking at destroyers...opinion?

Thanks for the help JR.

Get the valk closer to 400' first, I suggest a 150g blizzard boss when you take the step.

 

[HuntingtonHyzer]

Turso...I put in a little field time today after work and can get the valk over 390 (i measured out 390 feet but didnt measure the field past that point) 8 out of 10 times. I also threw the teebird really long today too..guessing 410-430. I know I need to work on doing this on the course and work on getting my accuracy better too. Curious as to your suggestion of the Blizzard Boss...I currently have two 150 blizzard destroyers that I can add to the bag (CTP winner at league).

 

[turso]

Turso...I put in a little field time today after work and can get the valk over 390 (i measured out 390 feet but didnt measure the field past that point) 8 out of 10 times. I also threw the teebird really long today too..guessing 410-430. I know I need to work on doing this on the course and work on getting my accuracy better too. Curious as to your suggestion of the Blizzard Boss...I currently have two 150 blizzard destroyers that I can add to the bag (CTP winner at league).

Got a few 150 blizzard bosses as my distance drivers and they're a dream. Fly like their max weight counter parts, but so much easier to get up to cruising speed and the distance is magically easy, and they glide and glide.

Try the destros out and report on how they fly, my friend has 150 one that's quite overstable indeed and not really a superduper distance disc because of it.

 

[plex]

dont go with the blizards.. they wont work well in windy conditions

Just get a regular 170-175g Destroyer, i prefer Star plastic.

you might also try Millenium SOLF, Discmania PD2 (This coming from a guy who throws destroyers as my go to for distance)

all my discs are between 170-175g, i find that to work best for me.

In my bag:
2x Star Destroyer @ 175g
1x Champ Destroyer 172g

 

[JR]

Played in my league tonight. Moved disc above parting line and changed my grip a little. Finally felt the disc pivot and nose down. Valk was hyzer flipping and turning over and going 340-360. Tee bird was flat, low and getting 360 plus! Had a few field drives over 400. Thinking that if I keep this up I'm ready to add a true distance driver...looking at destroyers...opinion?

Thanks for the help JR.

With Blizzards you could go faaar. And congratulations That D allows straight then fade flights out of fast discs and s-curves add more options too. Wraith is usually the first option out of the fast drivers. In Blizzzard that ain't a great disc though.

 

[HuntingtonHyzer]

JR...putting the disc above my parting line was really uncomfortable at first because it caused my grip to feel loose. I think I may have had to much of a death grip on the disc and it wasnt allowing my wrist flex (snap) and causing me to pull a little nose up. I also put more of my thumb pad on the disc where as before i was gripping with the knuckle of my thumb.

Im going to put the 150 blizz destroyers in the bag and see how they fair. My buddy has two pro destroyers that are brand new that im going to trade for. I think they will be a little stable at first but once they start beating I should be good I think.

 

[plex]

i recommend sanding off the flashing on new destroyers that will jump you ahead in the initial break in period so they will fly properly... but what do i know.

 

[JR]

You could also try to keep a stiff wrist and not allow the wrist to bend back (much anyway) and passively plus actively move the wrist from straight to right=hyper spin. Then you'll know which works better for you and how it influences the flight. Note that to much early forearm muscle stiffness slows down the arm whip prior to the wrist snap so you should also experiment with when to stiffen the wrist. The wrist wants to automatically cock at the right pec when the disc is close to the body. For approaches especially pulling close to the left pec and out at the right pec leaves the forearm muscles loose and depending on your physiology and how you've used the arm muscles before it may add another level of looseness to the arm allowing a faster final acceleration of the arm. Note it may not be the best way to throw far but it will demonstrate how loose the muscles are and explosive the arm acceleration can be. Something to strive for.

 

[HuntingtonHyzer]

Overstable:
164 Z Predator: Headwind Driver
170 ESP Pred: Forehand Driver (not used often)

Drivers:
150 Blizz Dest: Tailwind/distance
168 Pro Dest: Stable Max D.
167 CHTBrd: Control Distance Still pretty stable
168 CHTBrd: Hyzerflip. Beat but still solidly predictable
168 DX Brd: Flip and Fly straight and far.
174 JKValk: Do it all Driver (looove this disc)
175 Echo* RR: Rollers


Mids:
175 Z comet: Touch shots/anny shots
180 DX Rnch Roc: Beat to perfection. Straight for days.
175 Z buzz: Slightly understable. Gets a little farther than the rocs
180 KC Roc: Stable workhorse
175 Star Gator: Stable Headwind upshots

Putters:
2x 173 KC Glo Aviars. Just picked these up and they are sweet.
175 KC Aviar: Driving putter