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Rubber teepads -- anybody tried/seen this material?

jdawg24

Par Member
Gold level trusted reviewer
Joined
Dec 14, 2007
Messages
153
While I'm set on concrete for a course we're installing, the city is pushing a modular rubber "concrete alternative" on me. Just wondering if anyone had used a similar material for teepads, or seen them somewhere, and what your thoughts/experiences were?

Here is the material: http://rubbersidewalks.com/
 
Hear about these tee types

I have never seen one, but I assume it would be very similar to a track. My old high school track was made out of rubber, but it was a very durable surface. Very bumpy though, since it was for running with spikes, it would need to be a lot smoother for a tee.
 
In the video on the site they say "recycled plastic"... and judging by the look would be too slick to get traction on for distance.. then again you can't see the texture very well...
 
There are a couple of rubber teepads at Oak Grove and a whole bunch up at Sky High. The Fly 18 ones, cut from a roll of material, are a lot better than the "modular" ones, the reason being that if there's any irregularity AT ALL in the subsurface, the joints between the panels of the modular pads gets uneven, leading to trips & falls while driving.

My 2¢ - don't spend it all in one place.
 
The website says it is a fraction of the cost of concrete long term, but I'm curious to know if it's more or less upfront cost.
 
I am not a fan of them. Pymatuning is all Flypads. As the ground beneath settles over time they can become lumpy. Also they are super slick if they are in a wooded area with deciduous trees around, as the leaves decompose on them. I've seen quite a few busted asses because of these
 
Check out rubber stable mats as another option. Hot Shots dgc uses them, and is mentioned in many of the ourse reviews.
 
These are pretty expensive at $8/sf ... so $576 in material for a 6' x 12' teepad (size we are planning). I'm skeptical that they would stay flat enough to work as teepads given the modular design. They seem to grip well, even when wet, based on the sample I touched -- but seem like they would get slick with mud/dirt/leaves. Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to tell them no thanks.
 
I think you may be thinking well with your hesitancy here.

But for any others thinking along these lines consider this:

Overall costs would likely creep up even higher, if you need to add framing to keep the modular panels tight in place. Also any underlayment work,materials, and costs will pump it up even more.

And you could lose with success with these too. If they're terrible, then you lose. If its fantastic, then you may end up with a theft protection problem, and lose that way.

On the plus side, an alternating color grid might visually look cool...

But seriously, if the powers that be are being driven by forces that lead them to really really want a pervious surface for enviro resume reasons - there are likely better ways to get there via some of a gravel filled plastic hex material, either modular or cut from a roll.

That is, if it absolutely has to go that way.
 
Rubber teepads are good for tourney temps or for courses where the layout gets changed around a lot.

In places that I've seen them used as long term permanent pads (Lake Bella Vista in AR comes to mind) they generally start disintegrating after awhile.
 
I've played on rubber teepads quite a bit, and I don't care for them one bit. Signal View DGC which is a phenomenal 9 holer has them and the only time that their any count is on a hot dry day. If its raining or the pads are wet I tee off from the grass beside the pads because they get so slick you can barely stand on them. I truly believe that any other surface is better for a teepad.
 
The course closest to me has about 9/18 holes with rubber pads. IDK how long they have been in use but they have started disintegrating a little bit.

I do prefer them over just using the ground or grass. I have notice other DG courses in my area with out anyting and the Tee off stops are a MESS after rain storms where as the rubber mats may just have puddles, in which case we peel them back and dump the water off.

Rubber Tee Pad > No Tee Pad
 
1'x1' paver stones inside a box made with 4'x4' pressure treated posts works and looks fantastic. I just wanted to tell you now if you are still in the planning/presenting stage. Drainage is optimal. Traction is great in all weather. They should last a good 5 years before they need to be re-set if they need it that soon.
548528_2973901076220_1522602880_32051044_485148541_n.jpg
 
Yeah those pads are nice. My home course has flypad rubber pads and they seem to work well in all weather. Can be a little slick but never dangerous. If the tee pad is installed the right way the ground underneath the pad will shift some but will never create any hole or major problems. One of the nice things about the fly pads are they can be moved if needed. My course donated several fly pads to one of the course that was used during the worlds when it was held in the lehigh valley.
 
My home course of Moraine State park has the Fly 18 pads on all three tees. The ones in the open are fine but the ones back in the woods can get slippery. They've been in for ~2 years and seem to be holding up fine.

The reason we went with rubber, is that in the state park they didn't want concrete tees and these seem like more of a "temporary" tee where concrete is permanent
 
I really like the pads that Deaf Leopard posted in post #14. That said, the city wants those "green" credits. I think you're wasting your time fighting this. You're more likely to get the money for the tee pads if you go ahead and accept them.

One advantage that I see... If there are erosion problems or a course redesign, it appears that they can be moved pretty easily. This may be the answer to tee pads at Audubon Park in Garland, TX. The city will not allow concrete pads due to erosion concerns.
 
1'x1' paver stones inside a box made with 4'x4' pressure treated posts works and looks fantastic. I just wanted to tell you now if you are still in the planning/presenting stage. Drainage is optimal. Traction is great in all weather. They should last a good 5 years before they need to be re-set if they need it that soon.
548528_2973901076220_1522602880_32051044_485148541_n.jpg
If you can get this level I think it would be fine. Plus, it might be easier to get pavers to a remote site than concrete. Looks good, too. :thmbup:
 
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