Same mold, different weights

[Darth Anovin]

I'm just wondering what would be some advantages and disadvantages of keeping different weight of the same mold in your bag. The reason I ask is because it seems to me that if you like a mold and have multiples of it, they should be the same weight so you know what to expect with it. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

[fishmich]

I carry tbirds in different weights. Lightweight for down wind and heavier for headwinds or normal conditions.

 

[yawpstang64]

Its pretty much equivalent to having a mold in different plastics or stages of wear. You get to dial in flights with those variables but only have to learn one mold, which can provide you better consistency.
Some molds vary quite a bit by weight also. I carry a 162 and 174 GL River; Leopardy and TB/TLy respectively.

 

[Marmoset]

The argument for carrying different weights:
Heavier discs have pros and cons.
Lighter discs have pros and cons.
If you carry a mixture of weights then you can maximize the pros and minimize the cons.

The argument for carrying all the same weight:
It leads to consistency in your release. Consistency is never a bad thing, especially in golf.

 

[ArcheType]

Not all molds fly the same in different weights, some discs can be thrown on hyzer flips or anhyzers easier when they're lighter, and more stable when they're heavier.

 

[MattyIce]

I carry 2 Z BUZZZ, one heavy and one a bit lighter, i throw the lighter one on woods shots where wind isnt a problem, and the heavier one on open shots when it is windy

 

[Dthunderchicken]

Not all molds fly the same in different weights, some discs can be thrown on hyzer flips or anhyzers easier when they're lighter, and more stable when they're heavier.

This.

And I'll add that the differences become minimized as the disc gets slower. I carry an Element in 150 and 165. The 165 is much better in the wind. The 150 just feels better than the 165.

 

[sloppydisc]

I carry 2 of all my key discs. Two different weights for all the above reasons, plus you have a built-in backup if you lose one during a round. You won't be crushed and not be able to execute a key shot.

 

[captain jack]

There are many reasons why I carry multiple molds of the same disc in different weights.

A 150 R Pro Boss goes a zillion miles thrown backhand and downwind for me, but its too flippy to forehand, so I carry a Starlight 167 Boss for forehand duties. The Starlight I have no way of getting up to proper speed backhand, so I need both discs.

I use a 175 Champion Valkyrie for flat and downwind shots, but its not stable enough for strong headwinds, so I have a 161 Star thats alot more stable for upwind drives. The heavier disc does go farther between these two, which I attribute to better glide.

I carry a very flippy 150 Beast for long range downwind hyzer flips, and a more stable 165 Champ for more controlled distance drives that I need to turn less, but still go far in any wind.

 

[jongoff09]

Not all molds fly the same in different weights, some discs can be thrown on hyzer flips or anhyzers easier when they're lighter, and more stable when they're heavier.

^Exactly why I carry a 178 and a 169 Z Buzzz.

 

[Marmoset]

Not all molds fly the same in different weights, some discs can be thrown on hyzer flips or anhyzers easier when they're lighter, and more stable when they're heavier.

Don't interpret this statement as "heavier=always more overstable"

 

[Darth Anovin]

Well, then this leads me to another question: How much weight difference before you can actually tell a difference? Example: Is there really that big of a difference between 175 and 172 or 171?

 

[garublador]

For anything but putters I just carry the same weights but different stages of wear. I find it's much easier to manage that way. You don't end up wondering if you should throw the light one or the beat one.

For putters I carry a couple weights because they're thrown at a larger variety of speeds. I find that at slower speeds you can get more carry with no disadvantages.

 

[Marmoset]

Well, then this leads me to another question: How much weight difference before you can actually tell a difference? Example: Is there really that big of a difference between 175 and 172 or 171?

As far as disc flight goes: PLH and disc geometry plays a bigger role than weight. 1mm difference in PLH will affect the flight path waaaay more than 5g of weight.
As far as "feel in the hand" goes: I can start to feel a difference at about around 5 grams or so. 170g vs. 175 will feel a tiny bit different to me but I'm not calibrated enough for it to bother me.

Assuming the disc geometry is IDENTICAL, I won't really notice a difference (in the air or in the hand) between the 171 and the 175.

 

[waynewf]

Well, then this leads me to another question: How much weight difference before you can actually tell a difference? Example: Is there really that big of a difference between 175 and 172 or 171?

I think that I notice a difference when it's more than a 3 or 4 diff. I generally throw just under 170, and start to notice a difference if I get something marked over 172/173.

I'm a big believer in conforming the weights of your discs, however I sometimes will carry a particular 150 class disc in the case that it's not windy.

 

[jparent]

I carry 3-4 (maybe 5) rocs in my bad during a tournament.
I recently picked up a 160 roc and this thing is sweet!
It's DX so I'm not sure how long the stability will last but its already 8 years old and pretty worn in.

I usually throw
175 KC rocs
180 Rancho roc
180 R-Pro roc
and now a 160 DX roc

 

[Apoth]

As far as disc flight goes: PLH and disc geometry plays a bigger role than weight. 1mm difference in PLH will affect the flight path waaaay more than 5g of weight.
As far as "feel in the hand" goes: I can start to feel a difference at about around 5 grams or so. 170g vs. 175 will feel a tiny bit different to me but I'm not calibrated enough for it to bother me.

Assuming the disc geometry is IDENTICAL, I won't really notice a difference (in the air or in the hand) between the 171 and the 175.

FWIW, I find that most of my lighter-weight discs have a lower PLH than their more hefty counterparts.

 

[Lithicon]

Another element of lower weights, especially in our latest drivers. Since the majority of the mass/weight is in the outer rim, the lighter weights are easier to get snap on than a heavier weight. As it requires a bit more grip strength and over all mechanics to get the disc up to spin as well as a lighter disc. This goes for driver after and around speed 6 range. Slower than that and they still have a large quantity of weight on the outside, but the flight plate to rim ratio is a little better.

Lighter disc tend to be thrown farther with slightly less effort for this reason, with the larger rims decreasing in efficiency the bigger they go.

*Edit* You can find a happy medium somewhere around 165-168, as this is generally the best area to start for most people. Because while the lighter is easier to get started spinning, the heavier will spin longer when it is up to speed. Just getting it up to speed is the task. So you find the happy medium for you and your power/grip range.

 

[Midnightbiker]

I carry same mold in different weight and plastic.

I carry a 173 Soft Magnet for driving and approaching, and I have a 175 Z Magnet for putting.

I use the Soft Magnet for the long shots, because its much cheaper and eaiser to replace than the Z Mangnet, but the Z Magnet just goes were I point it, so the both work good for me.

 

[Lithicon]

*Spoiler alert* Slight meaningless derail of thread imminent.

Lol, Midnight. I almost understand the price logic, but man I just don't see the logic there. Not just you, everyone that does that. Premies for driving, and low grade for grabbing and slamming. Nothing against it, I just never understood it.