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Throwing Anhyzer with wrist vs body position

seedlings

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My home course has a half dozen holes with cabbage short to medium distance, left of tee. I learned FH because I hit these trees ALL the time attempting anhyzer shots. I read/watched players lean back and give a bit of rainbow arc for turnovers.

Can I learn to throw anhyzers without needing space on the left (rhbh), like with my wrist angle instead of body posture?
 
Example: the second tree on the left is my nemesis.

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To directly answer the question, yes you can throw anhyzer with your wrist. That's how I learned to do it -- basically an intentional OAT movement for when I wanted an anhyzer release. I have since gone to a more traditional release for most anny shots (adjust spine angle instead) which gives me more consistency. But when I really need a big ol' anny and the most important thing is getting the disc high and to the right...I do put a bit of OAT on it to help make sure it doesn't return back to center.

Indirect answer: that looks like a pretty big gap, although maybe the tree canopy takes away the high anhyzer line. The problem with anhyzer shots is that you do have to go up high to give the disc time to turnover to the right, and then land flat. Thrown too low and you get bad ground play, usually landing on a cut roll angle which will send your disc back to the left. A low shot that needs to get right typically means you're stuck with a forehand.
 
On principle, I like to say that it's all about body position vs. wrist. I think that's a good way to teach it too. Maybe it's because I watched Rhatton's video about throwing angles when I first started.

In reality, I know it's a mixture of both and the wrist isn't this perfect reflection of your arm angle. A lot of people seem to successfully use wrist to throw annys.

Simon and Eagle start their disc on on a different (anny) angle and it twists into a hyzer at the hit. I think it adds more power through a bounce-effect or something.

That gap is what understable discs are for. Hyzerflip where your angle sets the point in the flight where it will turn right. One of the most satisfying throws in disc golf.
 
That gap is what understable discs are for. Hyzerflip where your angle sets the point in the flight where it will turn right. One of the most satisfying throws in disc golf.

Exactly. Understable hyzer flip-up to turn to make the gap as big as possible.
 
Exactly. Understable hyzer flip-up to turn to make the gap as big as possible.

Bingo, came here to say exactly this. It takes a smooth technique but absolutely the best way to navigate those tight windows. Truly is a must have shot for woods golf since you don't have the room to force an anny with a stable to OS discs. Love throwing beat putters, Comets, Rocs and and Leopards on these lines.
 
You have discovered exactly my problem with understable discs (Origin, Heat, Essence). They flip up, glide right, then CUTrOLL. Left. And, since they're understable, they can stand back up and cutroll far.

I need to force over a slightly stable disc (MD3, Eagle), but keep the trajectory low. Or… keep working on FH… problem is my good turnover shots are far better than my good forehands.
 
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Here's another. 50' ahead, the tree leaning from left to right, notice the shadows of many branches blocking out any turnover that starts left-ish or high-ish. The pin is 310' and elevated 20' up on a hill from the low fairway. There is also a large ghost tree behind the first large tree on the right.

This morning I threw a perfect Essence shot flip up, glide right. Inside circle bottom of the hill under basket. (Missed the putt). But slight error and that cutroll left to the creek.

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You have discovered exactly my problem with understable discs (Origin, Heat, Essence). They flip up, glide right, then CUTrOLL. Left. And, since they're understable, they can stand back up and cutroll far.

I need to force over a slightly stable disc (MD3, Eagle), but keep the trajectory low. Or… keep working on FH… problem is my good turnover shots are far better than my good forehands.

Yep. That's one of the main reasons to throw forehands in that situation is to get more consistent ground play. I do feel like the James Conrad strategy of throwing a neutral putter hard and flat is a viable alternative. That'll get the disc to float to the right a bit but still land flat. Of course, the problem there is being able to throw a putter as far as you need to. You'll get better distance with an understable fairway but, again, increase the cut roll risk.

Less fun thought: Play the shot to the corner, then layup and tap in for par. Sometimes all it takes to improve is to realize which holes are "par" holes rather than "birdie" holes based on your individual skills.
 
Yep. That's one of the main reasons to throw forehands in that situation is to get more consistent ground play. I do feel like the James Conrad strategy of throwing a neutral putter hard and flat is a viable alternative. That'll get the disc to float to the right a bit but still land flat. Of course, the problem there is being able to throw a putter as far as you need to. You'll get better distance with an understable fairway but, again, increase the cut roll risk.

Less fun thought: Play the shot to the corner, then layup and tap in for par. Sometimes all it takes to improve is to realize which holes are "par" holes rather than "birdie" holes based on your individual skills.

All my buddies talk about that time I laid up for par. Such a memory. :D

In other words, you found another flaw in my game. I want to try to make every shot. If we're playing for tags, I have "lay up for par" chant/mantra going all the time. In my head and out loud.
 
My free advice and worth exactly what you're paying for it.

Off the tee and going for any sort of distance I pull through normally with my torso leaned back.

The wrist angle anhyzer is a shot I use frequently but only with putters on tricky little obstructed approaches with about 150'.

The hyzer flip to turnover with an understable disc is great to have in the arsenal but it is touchy and takes a lot of practice. You can't be a monkey and pull it off. While I haven't perfected this shot I am much better at it lately. Of course my game is more finesse than brute power.
 
You have discovered exactly my problem with understable discs (Origin, Heat, Essence). They flip up, glide right, then CUTrOLL. Left. And, since they're understable, they can stand back up and cutroll far.

I need to force over a slightly stable disc (MD3, Eagle), but keep the trajectory low. Or… keep working on FH… problem is my good turnover shots are far better than my good forehands.

That just means you threw something too under stable, with not enough hyzer, or the torque on your throw is causing it to turn and burn.

The flight you're looking for will stand up and drift right as opposed to continuing the turn into a "throwler."

It's a tough but necessary shot for woods golf. Takes a lot of practice.

You can throw these with low ceilings when you get good at them. You'll need to "disc up" usually. You need speed for penetrating through low ceilings. With faster discs come more margin for error. This is what makes Chris Dickerson so impressive.

Your image makes it look like you've got plenty of room though (I know some shots can be deceiving)
 
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Or… keep working on FH… problem is my good turnover shots are far better than my good forehands.

I think that's probably true for most primarily backhand players...their good turnovers are better than their good forehands. But what do your BAD shots do?

Same problem for other strategic shots. There's a hole with trees all down the left, and a teepad close to the first tree. I can throw a huge spike hyzer that maybe catches that first tree and ends up trash..but MAYBE comes spiking down right at the basket...or I can throw a low hyzer that glides under the canopy and skips up near the hole but probably never in my life goes in for an ace...all depends what you're playing for.

It's probably always going to be tough to throw a low, hard turning shot that doesn't end up with bad groundplay. Personally, if I don't have a real reason to ace-run something...I just throw the forehand and hope to get it better and better so my forehand becomes more of an ace run.
 
You have discovered exactly my problem with understable discs (Origin, Heat, Essence). They flip up, glide right, then CUTrOLL. Left. And, since they're understable, they can stand back up and cutroll far.

I need to force over a slightly stable disc (MD3, Eagle), but keep the trajectory low. Or… keep working on FH… problem is my good turnover shots are far better than my good forehands.


If you get them to move right you just need to practice and figure out how much hyzer and power you need to get it to turn right but not to much. Same principle can be used from US putters to 13 speed drivers. But overall I think a decent forehand is smart to develop, since the hyzer flip to turn over is a touchy shot with a lot of variance. Ripping a PD forehand straight and flat you are guaranteed a right hook at the end but a hyzer flip into a touch to much tailwind it can finish quite far left instead.
 
Gotta learn to release it on a decent hyzer angle feeling like you are going to throw pretty much right into the tree on the left. Hyzerflip is the primary shot I'm working on right now and I feel like I started getting the hang of it best on 200ft or less putter shots. It has taken a loooong time to start feeling comfortable with it in most situations but going thru the process has made me so much better at hitting different shot shapes everywhere in my game. Now I can throw a flippy putter that stays on a big hyzer all the way to big anny and anywhere in between. I highly recommend you start working it in ASAP.
 

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