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Uphill straight shots

wintry mix

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Dec 8, 2020
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Uphill straight shots

My practice area plays up and down an old woods road, about 185 feet before trees usually shorten the flight.

The oak tree I target at the high end of my practice area remains out of reach at 185. The best I can do is get just short of the base of the tree. Needs to be a pretty straight flight. Most consistently get close just throwing the Mako3 straight. When lucky enough to get a throw thru the trees in a level part of the woodlot I can throw only 230 or so. Just seems like a lot of distance lost to my uphill technique. (I should mention I'm 67 years old and just returning to throwing frisbees in the woods after 40some years of focusing on ball golf.)

I decided the day I hit the trunk of that oak from 185 I'll buy a basket. So you can understand just how important this is.

So what are good tips for throwing straight uphill?
 
The general recommendation for uphill shots is to throw a more understable disc than normal on a hyzer release. It's much easier to throw a hyzer on an upwards trajectory, so you'll get more power that way.

Realistically, an uphill shot is just not going to go as far, because you're fighting gravity the whole way. It's likely that the best way to develop the ability to reach this uphill shot is to develop more power in general.
 
^ This

The PDGA course design guidelines have/had a rule of thumb with regard to uphill elevation and distance:

"The Effective Length is a hole's measured length . . . plus or minus the elevation adjustment. The elevation adjustment is calculated by taking the vertical elevation change, multiplying it by 3, then adding it to the hole's measured length for upslopes and subtract it for downslopes to calculate a hole's effective length."
 
The general recommendation for uphill shots is to throw a more understable disc than normal on a hyzer release. It's much easier to throw a hyzer on an upwards trajectory, so you'll get more power that way.

I agree! I disc up and something understable.
 
My struggle with uphill shots is balance. The forward foot has something to stand on, but if I put the trail foot down I cant get weight to the front on the swing.

Hole 18 on my home course is a steep uphill where i usually land my drive. I usually end up short on the approach.
 
The general recommendation for uphill shots is to throw a more understable disc than normal on a hyzer release. It's much easier to throw a hyzer on an upwards trajectory, so you'll get more power that way.

Thanks for the reply.

I've read this somewhere and have been searching for understable lighter weight discs. Discs in general seem difficult to find then getting particular about weight throws most options out.

I do have an Innova Wedge coming along with a few other discs. Looking forward to trying it out.

I'm sure I'll develop a little more power as I work at it.
 
Watch the nose angle. I have a tendency to overcompensate for the upward angle when throwing uphill. This results in a short, stalling, fading disappointment. So depending on the steepness of the hill, you might aim at the base of the basket (or even lower) to compensate and keep the nose down.
 
See if a Standstill throw works for you when practicing, when your ready too advance on to a 1/2 step (Lead foot no further back than my rear leg on back swing), and then a one-step for your uphill throws. I'm 57 and in my 2nd year playing and have spent the past 5 months rehabbing my form. I was surprised at the distance I picked up the first time I played a course with some uphill hole's about 3 weeks into my Standstill. A greater distance than when I was using a flawed 4-step. The greater the grade on the slope I use a standstill, the lesser the grade a 1/2 step or a 1 step. I no longer worry about an uphill throw, it doesn't matter what disc I throw, and the distance is there.
 
My struggle with uphill shots is balance. The forward foot has something to stand on, but if I put the trail foot down I cant get weight to the front on the swing.

Hole 18 on my home course is a steep uphill where i usually land my drive. I usually end up short on the approach.

For extreme hills, if the ground is level a couple feet to the right of your lie (assuming RHBH), you can start with your back foot there and essentially perform a "one-leg drill" throw. It will look like you're setting up for a "patent-pending", but it's different, because you don't need to worry about keeping your back foot down (since your normal lead foot is the point of contact behind your lie). The advantage here is that you can do a normal weight shift.
 

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