"You Might Need New Discs"

[armiller]

The big reason I'm "considering" (once again, just a possibility) getting a higher speed disc is that the courses I play are 9-hole par-3's that have hole lengths from tight-curving 245ft holes to narrow 370ft holes, and even if I get my mids to go straight, a 170ft shot on the fairway just isn't leaving me in a good place to par, more-or-less birdie. I typically end games 10+ through 9, but now that my shots are going straighter and further, I am sure that is bound to change. Basically, I'd want to have a disc where I can get some distance on those long, 340-370ft holes and get a good, further lie on the high-200ft ones. I know with time that my mid distance will improve, but I'd also like the possibility of having a far but slightly off-target starting drive so I can just "get it closer" on my second shot, rather than trying to approach it from a bit out. Does that make sense?

Once again, I am not neglecting my mids at all. My mids are my favorite and deadliest discs in my bag. I'm just saying that in-time, adding something like what I mentioned to my arsenal could provide a good and suitable use.

I think there's no problem buying some higher speed discs. You will grow into them, and some are not bad as a beginner. Actually, even in the canonical How to Build a Bag, garublador recommends a speed 9 Firebird as part of a beginner's 4-disc bag.

I'm a believer in the "play disc golf to have fun" philosophy. Personally, I don't play disc golf to attain that "perfect" round that will happen when I can throw 450' controlled and make every putt inside 60'. I am happy with reaching for "perfect" relative to my skill level at the time of my round, and then I simultaneously try to improve my game (form, putting, etc.) when I can.

The key, I think, especially in the beginning, is just making sure you don't reinforce bad habits while you are having fun. Keep working on your form and throwing those putters and mids, but don't let us make you feel guilty buying a couple drivers. I would, however, recommend you keep it to speed 9 and below at first.

 

[Putt for D'oh]

I never had luck with the mixing it up thing; the throw one thing on field work and something different during rounds. I just found it frustrating. Muscle memory is a funny thing, and as soon as I put the heavy regular round disc in my hand, the regular heavy round disc throw was back. It may work for some, just didn't work for me

I hear that. I'm sure mixing it up is slower progress but I've met so many people that get burnt out and have no fun trying to correct issues and learn on the course.
My hope is they bring the practice to the course but I know I fall into bad habits pretty quick during a round and I'm aware of what I'm trying to do.

 

[AlphaFoxFL]

To those of you who mentioned it, I am going to go out to my home par-3 course hopefully before the weekend, and I'm not going to touch my Leopard driver at all. I should be able to get my shots on the fairway, if not just off-target, but not giving myself any "horrible" positions. If I can get some good shots, I see myself getting quite a few pars, maybe a birdie or two on particular holes. I sometimes have a tendency to under-power shots from fear that I'm going to give myself a far putt, but most times I just go for a lay-up without thinking about over-shooting, I end up within 10-15 feet or closer.

I have heard what you have been saying about getting a "too overstable" driver, and if I do decide to get a higher speed driver, I'll keep that in-mind. However, I'm not going to get a higher-speed driver until I get my mids cleaned up enough to where I feel comfortable grabbing my Leopard and straightening "it" up as well. After I straighten up my Leopard, I'll see if a higher speed driver will really do too much to my current game.

 

[AlphaFoxFL]

Some of the drivers I have been looking at to possibly check out in the future are the Innova Viking, Savant, Thunderbird, Orc, Invictus, Teebird3, and TL3. I know a lot of people were recommending more understable discs such as the Sidewinder and Roadrunner, but I'm not sure how straight of a shot I could get with discs like those. Let me know what you think, especially those of you who have thrown some of those discs yourselves.

 

[Keller]

First you say this,

I have heard what you have been saying about getting a "too overstable" driver, and if I do decide to get a higher speed driver, I'll keep that in-mind. However, I'm not going to get a higher-speed driver until I get my mids cleaned up enough to where I feel comfortable grabbing my Leopard and straightening "it" up as well. After I straighten up my Leopard, I'll see if a higher speed driver will really do too much to my current game.

And then you ask this?

Some of the drivers I have been looking at to possibly check out in the future are the Innova Viking, Savant, Thunderbird, Orc, Invictus, Teebird3, and TL3. I know a lot of people were recommending more understable discs such as the Sidewinder and Roadrunner, but I'm not sure how straight of a shot I could get with discs like those. Let me know what you think, especially those of you who have thrown some of those discs yourselves.

At your current arm speed and technique, none of these are going to be straight.

Most of the time, getting a disc to go straight is all about control and speed. Learning to hyzer flip an understable disc is the easiest way to get a straight shot. If you're throwing 300ft, a flat shot with a Sidewinder will be pretty straight.

Some of the easiest drivers that newer a players can get to fly straight;
DX and Pro Leopards
DX Teebirds
DX Cheetahs
Underworld
Polaris LS
Sting
Maul
Jade
There are a lot of them.
The Teebird, Polaris and Cheetah will need to be beat in a little. But these are great molds to cycle too.

For the most part, it's all about how you throw it, not the disc. Unless it's a complete meathook! And the Orc, Thunderbird, Savant and Invictus are going to be complete meat hooks for you.

 

[AlphaFoxFL]

I've been talking to a few people in-person about what might work best for me, and those are some of the ones they recommended. I'm having the best results with my stable-overstable disc, and I know that obviously with more speed, the more difficult it is to keep the disc from fading. I just don't know if a -4 turn disc with 1 fade would be easy to throw, especially since it's labeled on the website as a disc used for rollers. One I forgot to include on that list that someone recommended to me was the DX Beast. I've also heard good things about the Valkyrie. Once again, I really don't know how any of these discs are going to perform in my hands, but as I said earlier, I'm hopefully going to try out some of my friends' drivers to see what I can get to perform the best, that way if I do make that sort of decision, I have some grounds to help make that decision.

 

[SaROCaM]

I've been talking to a few people in-person about what might work best for me, and those are some of the ones they recommended. I'm having the best results with my stable-overstable disc, and I know that obviously with more speed, the more difficult it is to keep the disc from fading. I just don't know if a -4 turn disc with 1 fade would be easy to throw, especially since it's labeled on the website as a disc used for rollers. One I forgot to include on that list that someone recommended to me was the DX Beast. I've also heard good things about the Valkyrie. Once again, I really don't know how any of these discs are going to perform in my hands, but as I said earlier, I'm hopefully going to try out some of my friends' drivers to see what I can get to perform the best, that way if I do make that sort of decision, I have some grounds to help make that decision.

Flight numbers are a guide, but they don't guarantee that the disc will fly that way for everyone, especially if not thrown up to speed. The Shark may be flying well for you with 0 turn and 2 fade, but that speed 4 (really a number that means power requirement) means that it will do so at lower speeds/shorter distances. A Thunderbird has that 0 turn 2 fade rating, but at speed 9 (again, think power requirement) which will be more like 350' of power. If you throw it at less than that, it will probably fly more like 0 turn 3+ fade, or even a +1 turn.

For example, look at the flight path for the Roadrunner shown (the tab next to stats) here: https://www.innovadiscs.com/disc/roadrunner/

That -4 turn will only happen if you get the disc up to the right speed (somewhere around a 350'+ throw) as shown by the solid line flight path. Below that it will fly closer to the dotted line flight path, which is pretty straight. The good thing about a disc like that is, for those starting out or with lower arm speed, it will fly straighter without too much manipulation. As you develop more power, you can manipulate angles to make it fly in various ways. It can be thrown for a long turning shot, or with some hyzer to go straighter, or thrown as a roller, etc. So much potential for versatility.

Trying before you buy will be good to see how discs (and different flight numbers) fly with your current throw.

 

[SaROCaM]

Some of the drivers I have been looking at to possibly check out in the future are the Innova Viking, Savant, Thunderbird, Orc, Invictus, Teebird3, and TL3. I know a lot of people were recommending more understable discs such as the Sidewinder and Roadrunner, but I'm not sure how straight of a shot I could get with discs like those. Let me know what you think, especially those of you who have thrown some of those discs yourselves.

At < 300' of power, the Sidewinder/Roadrunner will fly straighter while something like a Thunderbird or Orc will be quite overstable.

When you try out your friends' discs, note that the amount of wear will affect stability. So if they have a really beat disc, then that will fly differently from a new disc of the same mold. Plastic type can also affect stability, with premium plastics typically having more stability compared to base plastics.


Of those discs listed, I'd recommend the TL3.

 

[aphilso1]

I've been talking to a few people in-person about what might work best for me, and those are some of the ones they recommended. I'm having the best results with my stable-overstable disc, and I know that obviously with more speed, the more difficult it is to keep the disc from fading. I just don't know if a -4 turn disc with 1 fade would be easy to throw, especially since it's labeled on the website as a disc used for rollers. One I forgot to include on that list that someone recommended to me was the DX Beast. I've also heard good things about the Valkyrie. Once again, I really don't know how any of these discs are going to perform in my hands, but as I said earlier, I'm hopefully going to try out some of my friends' drivers to see what I can get to perform the best, that way if I do make that sort of decision, I have some grounds to help make that decision.

Throwing faster, relatively overstable discs like Thunderbirds will force you to torque the disc to get any kind of distance, rather than learn to throw clean. I'm not one of those guys that says you need to throw mids 300' before you even consider faster stuff, but that specific list they gave you is not remotely beginner friendly. Keller's list is a much better place to start. If you really want to try out some of the molds that your local buddies recommended, then get them in DX plastic so that they are the least overstable version of the mold.

 

[azplaya25]

Second time I've recommended this today, but do you have a play it again sports near you? I always tell new players to hit up a play it again used bin. Used discs are like 6 bucks, you can grab a few and the best part is they will be beat in and easier to throw and control.

Fwiw, I have probably 330 feet of consistent power, and I find a new thunderbird to be difficult to throw straight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SaROCaM]

I still struggle with distance on uphill holes, but doesn't everyone!

I had meant to speak to this. If the tee (or whatever lie you are throwing from) is sloped uphill, then orienting your walkup/runup along or across the hill instead of directly up the hill can help.

Sidewinder22 shows an example in the elephant walk drill: https://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136487

Paul McBeth has also stated this approach in videos; I don't remember the specific ones but there are videos where he is playing a practice round and gives a lot of tips in various situations.

Of course if the tee is flat then it is another matter; basically you choose a distance line depending on the disc choice, conditions, the shape of the hole, etc. Another scenario where working on and being familiar with line shaping with different discs will help.

But yes, dealing with elevation changes is a challenge, though figuring it out is part of the fun.

 

[RoDeO]

I had meant to speak to this. If the tee (or whatever lie you are throwing from) is sloped uphill, then orienting your walkup/runup along or across the hill instead of directly up the hill can help.

Sidewinder22 shows an example in the elephant walk drill: https://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136487

Paul McBeth has also stated this approach in videos; I don't remember the specific ones but there are videos where he is playing a practice round and gives a lot of tips in various situations.

Of course if the tee is flat then it is another matter; basically you choose a distance line depending on the disc choice, conditions, the shape of the hole, etc. Another scenario where working on and being familiar with line shaping with different discs will help.

But yes, dealing with elevation changes is a challenge, though figuring it out is part of the fun.

There is one hole I play where the tee pad is sloped uphill and the basket is only like 246 and it takes everything I got to get it there and it only increases in elevation maybe 12 feet

 

[ray1970]

There is one hole I play where the tee pad is sloped uphill and the basket is only like 246 and it takes everything I got to get it there and it only increases in elevation maybe 12 feet

Ugh. I play a similar hole.

The pad slopes upward and the basket is about 230' but probably twenty to twenty five feet uphill.

Not only does the uphill tee pad steal my thunder but it also kind of throws off my timing. It's one of the few holes that short that I throw a driver on.

 

[RoDeO]

Ugh. I play a similar hole.

The pad slopes upward and the basket is about 230' but probably twenty to twenty five feet uphill.

Not only does the uphill tee pad steal my thunder but it also kind of throws off my timing. It's one of the few holes that short that I throw a driver on.

It took me a while to finally get it up there. I think it has to do with the uphill run on the pad. I use a speed 7 driver to get my disc up there. And it barely gets there. That tee pad is just brutal. If the pad was level it would be a lot easier. I play on another course that has brutal 275-425 holes all the way up the side of this ravine/ mountain side but it has level tees and I can throw pretty good on them.