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[Help] Beating in discs fast?

I tried doing this a couple times, however with very hard plastic and so it didn't work very well. I would wing it at the chains after putting... throw it against trees, against the ground... I saw no difference in flight characteristics, though. Doesn't work so well with really tough plastic.
 
You could try what I've done. I accidentally drove my tractor with snowchains over my RFF wizard. :D Didn't even puncture the disc, although it has two nice circle-like marks on the flight plate. Was my perfect turnover disc until I lost it. :)
 
I drove over a new classic truth I bag now with a car 2x's (after I lost my beat-in money classic truth.) is this PDGA legal, just kidding I don't care. :p

That's exactly the right attitude. After reading the Ulibarri foot fault thread, I learned that a rule is only broken if your playing partners call you for it.
 
why do you care if you are going to get big marks on a disc you are trying to beat in?

THROW THE DAMN THING!
 
There seems to be three types of wear...

1. Flashing removal or wearing down the bottom of the rim (more aerodynamic / lower PLH - slightly less stable)
2. Dings and scrapes in the plastic (turbulence - less drag / more glide)
3. Hard impacts that taco the disc and make it non-symmetrical (built in OAT)

I think you would have to modify the disc in all three ways if you want it to fly like a disc that was worn naturally.
 
I'm just not into this sort of thing. I think that it does a lot for your game to develop a relationship with that disc as it ages slowly. Some of the biggest distance I've ever gotten was from Star Wraiths that took a while to beat in and I learned to crank on them on a flight line and later with a slight hyzer and so on.

If it's your farthest distance driver once seasoned and you're just replacing the same mold, you should be able to pick it up after artificial seasoning and throw it well from throw one. The only use a fresh Wraith into a strong head wind and in So Cal, we get that about one out of every twenty rounds. Not nearly enough to season a disc without sacrificing the accuracy of a similarly stable, slower disc.

I can season one Wraith through play for about every two I do with the tapping on the 4x4 in the car method. I carry a lightly and moderately seasoned Wraith and add a fresh if there's wind. Other than those and an old mold Beast (basically fresh Wraith stability in a speed I can force decent turn on) I'm all fairways and down from there.
 
tune it.. or get a disc that better suits you.
 
I wouldn't suggest taking anything sharp to a disc. its much easier to lightly stand vs be a surgeon and risk greatly impacting the stability if you remove too much material--which is very easy using something like a razor.

Discs naturally get dings and scrapes as well as the wing being bent down and warped into a lower PLH. That's the way to go as it adds to the discs grip/pliability, glide, and range of different shots which can be covered. Some molds are not meant to fly any different really when seasoned while other discs will change much more drastically in their HSS and LSS portions of the flight.

I find tuning to be great for new discs (or warped ones) which might have a odd PLH or even shoulder/dome. Its not an easy thing to do though given some of the very durable premium plastics. Heating the disc in warm water seems to help stretch it out and shape up.

I'm not scared of some scuffs or dings. Those are go-to throwers ;)
 
trimmed the flashing on a D4 of mine that flew like a beefy D1.. it now flies like a D4.
 
to get the flashing to break down i skip it off the dirt at the ball diamond. seems to work. also had a city guy run over my trespass with a mower (blades off). he felt super bad about it i told him not to worry. now its my go to distance driver
 
^for underside flashing, one of those foam 3M sanding blocks works great

Yup. I used to keep one in my bag at all times. Works great for sanding nasty chunks out of discs as well. Now I keep a half-sheet of 120 grit folded up inside a ziplock. Same principle, less space. Doesn't work quite as well because it will get wet and I'll forget to replace it so I lose a lot of grit.
 
I just slide them across some fine grit concrete, never on concrete with rocks poking out, also a wooden bench works well to take flashing off
 
I'm just not into this sort of thing. I think that it does a lot for your game to develop a relationship with that disc as it ages slowly. Some of the biggest distance I've ever gotten was from Star Wraiths that took a while to beat in and I learned to crank on them on a flight line and later with a slight hyzer and so on.

I'm old, I dont have time for that. :|
Tuning works, overtuning is faster.
Its all about changing the molecular density of the TPE, flexing a disc repeatedly will do this quickly.
Be careful though, you can easily crack the flight plate, or form fracture lines, if you overdo it, especially with baseline plastics.
 
I love throwing champ teebirds, but they are usually a bit overstable for me when new. So, I usually reserve brand new ones for tomahawk duty (I throw overhand pretty frequently). Spiking them into the ground this way seems to beat them in pretty quick. This way I am actually playing holes rather than throwing into a fence or something.
 
Seriously though, I do f*** them in a hot tub. But only for a minute or two. After that they dying to please and they will always fly just the way I like it.
This also asserts your dominance. Just don't let them be thrown by others or risk them knowing how others treat them.
 
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