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buddy owes me a disc, need advice

Decoy

Newbie
Joined
Apr 12, 2008
Messages
39
Location
Moorhead, Minnesota
currently throwing hyzer flips for distance, use a star sidewinder (175) and champ beast (175). looking for something that is more overstable (although I know I'm not yet able to flatten out and elite-x avenger).

Just going by the flight chart, I was considering an orc or crush. -maybe and Orion LS, but to be honest I've never even seen a millennium disc much less thrown one of them.
 
The Orc and Crush really aren't hyzer flip discs unless you've got big power or they're really beat. If you can't flatten an X Avenger, then those two will be tough to flatten as well.
 
Would you say the avenger is a good next step for me, from these discs? I had just borrowed a friends for a day or two (it had never been used), and really need something a bit more overstable than what I have now. I was hoping there would be a disc somewhere between the beast and avenger that may work well for what I want to do with it.

-edit-
thx Shaolintrained, I'll definitely go check one out.
 
I like when my discs start off just a little too overstable to flip up from a hyzer. That means they'll beat into being really good. If I can flip them from the start they tend to beat in to be squirrley.

The Avenger sounds like a disc that will work. The DX Starfire is good, too and similar to the Avenger. The MOLF might fall into that category, too, but I haven't thrown one. I like those three because they make good moderately overstable drivers in high end plastics for most people.

If you want something a little less overstable than those you can try the Valk, Viking, LS (I found it got squirrley in Millennium plasic, though), SL (same as LS, mine got squirrley in Pro) or XS. The Assassin or CD1 might fall into this category, too, but I've never thrown either one of those.

In other words, you have a lot of choices.
 
Decoy said:
-maybe and Orion LS, but to be honest I've never even seen a millennium disc much less thrown one of them.

ZAMson is going to love me...

Millenium is the MOST underrated and underrepresented company out there. In my opinion. I'm sure you'll love the LS.
 
Furthur said:
The Orc and Crush really aren't hyzer flip discs unless you've got big power or they're really beat. If you can't flatten an X Avenger, then those two will be tough to flatten as well.

Not knowing the distance and form of the original thrower is difficult for judging about recommendations. Weight has a large impact on high speed stability. My Champion Orc 167 is easy to flip at about 350'+ power on less than 18' apexes. My Z Avenger 164 is a max D disc. I annied it to 420' so that after an apex of about 40' slow speed at the apex 20 degrees of anny most of the glide it flexed to flat almost at the end. At 10' apexes it's almost a roller for me at full power released flat and it's new. Steep hyzers with a hyzer flip make it a mild s-curver on 15' apexes to 380'.

My X Crush ain't a pig like my friend's Z that was originally mine. My X 173or4 Crush is a hyzer flip disc for me on low line drives. One of the longest low line drive discs. Destroyer is the disc that compete and usually win in D on low line drives at the same weight. Wraith is very difficult on low line drives and my 166 Star outflies the X Crush by a little.
 
JR said:
Furthur said:
The Orc and Crush really aren't hyzer flip discs unless you've got big power or they're really beat. If you can't flatten an X Avenger, then those two will be tough to flatten as well.

Not knowing the distance and form of the original thrower is difficult for judging about recommendations. Weight has a large impact on high speed stability. My Champion Orc 167 is easy to flip at about 350'+ power on less than 18' apexes. My Z Avenger 164 is a max D disc. I annied it to 420' so that after an apex of about 40' slow speed at the apex 20 degrees of anny most of the glide it flexed to flat almost at the end. At 10' apexes it's almost a roller for me at full power released flat and it's new. Steep hyzers with a hyzer flip make it a mild s-curver on 15' apexes to 380'.

My X Crush ain't a pig like my friend's Z that was originally mine. My X 173or4 Crush is a hyzer flip disc for me on low line drives. One of the longest low line drive discs. Destroyer is the disc that compete and usually win in D on low line drives at the same weight. Wraith is very difficult on low line drives and my 166 Star outflies the X Crush by a little.
I can hyzer flip both discs at max weight, and I'm not a cannon arm :)
 
tumpsi said:
JR said:
Furthur said:
The Orc and Crush really aren't hyzer flip discs unless you've got big power or they're really beat. If you can't flatten an X Avenger, then those two will be tough to flatten as well.

Not knowing the distance and form of the original thrower is difficult for judging about recommendations. Weight has a large impact on high speed stability. My Champion Orc 167 is easy to flip at about 350'+ power on less than 18' apexes. My Z Avenger 164 is a max D disc. I annied it to 420' so that after an apex of about 40' slow speed at the apex 20 degrees of anny most of the glide it flexed to flat almost at the end. At 10' apexes it's almost a roller for me at full power released flat and it's new. Steep hyzers with a hyzer flip make it a mild s-curver on 15' apexes to 380'.

My X Crush ain't a pig like my friend's Z that was originally mine. My X 173or4 Crush is a hyzer flip disc for me on low line drives. One of the longest low line drive discs. Destroyer is the disc that compete and usually win in D on low line drives at the same weight. Wraith is very difficult on low line drives and my 166 Star outflies the X Crush by a little.
I can hyzer flip both discs at max weight, and I'm not a cannon arm :)

Me neither when it comes to wrist action. Torquing them over is super easy at max weight but with a hyzer release it isn't that easy. It takes some arm with a clean form to torque over those discs at max weight. not much power is required for flipping them over on low line drives with bad form. Orc is pretty HSS unstable in JFC.
 
Picked up a 1st run SOLS 171 today. Would have liked to have a 175, but the local store only had 6 millennium discs (out of like 400).

Also found a really old Polaris LF (hardly used, just been hiding for years) that claims to be 2.4, but I don't believe it. going to head out as soon as this rain quits and see how they fly.

wtf does 1st run mean?
 
Decoy said:
wtf does 1st run mean?
It means that this 'first run' disc is part of the original batch the manufacturer released to the public...i.e. the first time this disc was run through the machines.

Often, after this first batch has had time to be out in the world, the company tweaks the mold and slightly (or perhaps not-so-slightly) changes the disc and it's flight based on customer feedback. So, to make it easier for people who fell in love with the first untweaked batch, they mark them 'first run'.


sleepy
 
Decoy said:
Polaris LF (hardly used, just been hiding for years) that claims to be 2.4, but I don't believe it.

Why don't you believe it? 2.4 just means 2nd version of that mold, 4th run. Why is that unbelievable?
 
maybe he's thinking 2.4 stability like the Discraft rating system?
He thinks its unbelievable because that's 0.1 less stable than a Z Pred?
 
cmlasley said:
Decoy said:
Polaris LF (hardly used, just been hiding for years) that claims to be 2.4, but I don't believe it.

Why don't you believe it? 2.4 just means 2nd version of that mold, 4th run. Why is that unbelievable?

haha...I'm an idiot...I did think it was stability.

edit-Also realized the 1.1 on my solf means 1st mold 1st run. Saw a thread comparing the 1.1 solf with the 1.2, wondering if I'm going to have to head back out in a week to buy a 1.2. Any thoughts?
 
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