Disc Selection

[Johnnytothec]

My friend and I have been debating about disc selection and would appreciate your input. We throw basically the same distance with all of our discs, but often choose different discs for the same shot.

Wizard: 310
Buzzz: 340
Teebird: 370
Wraith: 400

If the hole is a wide open 350' with no trouble around the green, he will throw a buzzz, and I will throw a teebird. He does this to throw a slower, more accurate disc, and leave himself just 10' short for an easy tap in birdie.

I will throw a teebird because if I throw well (I rate the throw 8/10 or better) I will go long 20' but have and easy 20'er for birdie. If I dont throw it too well and throw and it like a 6 or 7 out of ten and goes 20 shorter, now I am parked. If it is a below average throw and goes 40' shorter than I planned, it goes 330' still leaving me an easy 20' birdie putt on this 350' hole.

If my friend throws it poorly and it goes 40' shorter than he had planned, he is looking at a 50'er. On the other hand he is throwing a slower, more accurate and more consistent disc that has a tigher shot dispersement so he wont throw it 40' short very often.

Given the distances we throw, and only the 4 discs listed above available, what would you throw on that hole and why?

 

[zealot]

throw whats most comfortable. i dont throw quite as far as you guys anymore (hurt myself) but i throw a teebird nice and smooth on that distance for the same reasons you do.

 

[garublador1]

Right now it would depend on how well I'm throwing each one that particular day. I not only have to contend with the discs not going as far as I want, I have the "problem" of getting the occasional drive that goes farther than I had planned. If I'm feeling the midranges then I'll throw one of those. If they aren't working for me that day I think I'd be better off with the Teebird.

More generally, if I'm throwing on a tweener hole I'll pick a newer or higher end plastic version of the upper disc. I'd rather throw something newer a little lower than try to push the distance on the slower disc. Again, because I'm consistantly inconsistant on any given day, it will depend on what seems to be working for me that particluar day.

IMO, the way you're thinking about it is right. Which disc you choose will depend on how often you'll be outside the circle with each given disc.

 

[dflaschiii]

If there are no obstacles and no wind, I'd probably go with the Buzz if you gave me that bag and that shot (Roc really is perfect though). Midranges are more forgiving in general if you make a mistake, and I'd rather play below the basket than past it.

But, if I was in a tourney and absolutely had to have a birdie on that hole, I'd probably go with the TB (or Gazelle), dial down my throw to 80% power and really attack the pin. That's more of a big risk big reward option, where the midrange is guaranteed par.

 

[BenKrishman]

I have about the same distances as you(though I only put my rocs at 320' and my aviars 280-290') and I'll always throw the roc over the teebird if I can. For me the roc is my most consistent disc, feels great in my hand and comes out of my hand great. I feel much more confident throwing my roc at 100% my normal throw than throwing my teebird at 70%. Also, if I'm on a hole where I normally throw my teebird, but I have a still tailwind over my right shoulder I'll pull the roc out because I know I can get it there and I'll feel like I have less room for error.

I (almost) always throw the slowest disc I can for the distance and line required for the shot.

 

[tumpsi]

If I felt like I had a good day, I'd go for the Buzzz. If I don't get that feeling, I'd throw the Teebird. If I had a tailwind, I'd go for the Buzz anyway.

 

[t i m]

In this example, because the hole is "wide open with no trouble around the green," I would go with the teebird. I can put a teebird on a big sweeping hyzer and feel pretty accurate with it. A buzz I feel like I have to throw flat and straight, which for me is harder to gauge distance. Wind would also be a huge factor, of course.

In my game, I favor hyzers to flat or anhyzer shots; hyzers feel more dependable to me. I'll only put out a flat or anhyzer shot to hit a specific line or for max D.

 

[MDR_3000]

In this example, because the hole is "wide open with no trouble around the green," I would go with the teebird. I can put a teebird on a big sweeping hyzer and feel pretty accurate with it.

listen to this guy.

 

[black udder]

It would depend - if the Teebird *max* distance is 370, then I'd go with that - you don't throw your max distance with a disc all the time, so odds are you'd end up between 330-350.

For the buzz, if you're throwing 340' max, that's a big stroke so you take the chance of flipping it or grip locking or something. So you're looking at 340' as best case. Thus, as with the scenario above, you could be 320' and 20'-50' left or right.

If those are averages, then 340' average for a buzz should mean a normal, not overly hot, throw and would probably be your most consistent shot. If the 370' is average, then you have a good chance of going 10'+ beyond the 370' which could put you at 30'+ beyond and with a bad skip, 20'+ left or right.

All boils down to one thing - if somebody said, "$20 if you can birdie this hole." Which disc do you pick up?

If you have those distances, I don't doubt that you could birdie that hole with any of a dozen discs, so it's not about driver or midrange, it's about what's your money disc.

 

[Steady 26542]

I'm more accurate with a slight hyzer shot. If I miss my hyzer it is almost always a bit high and to the right, which brings the disc back to the target anyway. Oh yeah, Teebird... :lol:

 

[Johnnytothec]

I agree about how you are throwing one day plays a big part disc selection as does wind of course, but just to elimate variables and get to the heart of the question, there is no wind, and those distances listed are already adjusted to how you are throwing in that particular round.

I'd rather play below the basket than past it.

The basket on this hole is surronded by nothing but native grass for 500' in any direction. Why would being short of the basket be better than long? In a no wind, no slope situation, isn't a 20' putt a 20' putt regardless of where the teepad was? Plus when you are 20' long, you had an ace run!

All boils down to one thing - if somebody said, "$20 if you can birdie this hole." Which disc do you pick up?

While I agree that that line of thinking will get you the most birdies, it might or might not be the play that gives you the best average score. Because this is the most wide open hole you will ever play in your life, there is no dramatic risk reward shot, both the lowest average and most birdie approach would be the same, but I can think of a lot of holes that I would approach differently if I was playing a whole round for score vs $20 for a birdie.

I feel much more confident throwing my roc at 100% my normal throw than throwing my teebird at 70%.

I agree. Some people are able to throttle back on their discs and not lose accuracy. Not me. I try to throw all of my throws outside of 290' at 90% power. My muscle memory is predicated on a firm aggressive pull, and when I ease up, my timing is off, and my grip is too strong resulting in lots of grip locks. If I change from the power grip to a fan grip to avoid griplocks, I can get early releases. Playing wooded courses I find much more success using less disc with a firm throw vs more disc with a finessy throw.

These distances are based upon throwing 90% with a slight hyzer, about 15' high, aimed 30' right of the basked (RHBH) which flips up to flat, and fades in. There is a little more D available by throwing 100% or taking out our the hyser release so the high speed turn makes the disc move left to right, but both of those are a pretty big hit to accuracy over a 90% flat hyser flip for me.

Instead of throttling back I prefer to throw with more hyzer, or wider and higher, but still at 90% power to take off distance, but my main question in this thread is "is it ideal to throw a 370' disc on a 350 hole to maximize your chance of having a high % birdie putt even if you dont throw it well or should you throw a slower disc that will just get you there if you throw it well?"

 

[JR]

I agree about how you are throwing one day plays a big part disc selection as does wind of course, but just to elimate variables and get to the heart of the question, there is no wind, and those distances listed are already adjusted to how you are throwing in that particular round.

I'd rather play below the basket than past it.

The basket on this hole is surronded by nothing but native grass for 500' in any direction. Why would being short of the basket be better than long? In a no wind, no slope situation, isn't a 20' putt a 20' putt regardless of where the teepad was? Plus when you are 20' long, you had an ace run!

All boils down to one thing - if somebody said, "$20 if you can birdie this hole." Which disc do you pick up?

While I agree that that line of thinking will get you the most birdies, it might or might not be the play that gives you the best average score. Because this is the most wide open hole you will ever play in your life, there is no dramatic risk reward shot, both the lowest average and most birdie approach would be the same, but I can think of a lot of holes that I would approach differently if I was playing a whole round for score vs $20 for a birdie.

I feel much more confident throwing my roc at 100% my normal throw than throwing my teebird at 70%.

I agree. Some people are able to throttle back on their discs and not lose accuracy. Not me. I try to throw all of my throws outside of 290' at 90% power. My muscle memory is predicated on a firm aggressive pull, and when I ease up, my timing is off, and my grip is too strong resulting in lots of grip locks. If I change from the power grip to a fan grip to avoid griplocks, I can get early releases. Playing wooded courses I find much more success using less disc with a firm throw vs more disc with a finessy throw.

These distances are based upon throwing 90% with a slight hyzer, about 15' high, aimed 30' right of the basked (RHBH) which flips up to flat, and fades in. There is a little more D available by throwing 100% or taking out our the hyser release so the high speed turn makes the disc move left to right, but both of those are a pretty big hit to accuracy over a 90% flat hyser flip for me.

Instead of throttling back I prefer to throw with more hyzer, or wider and higher, but still at 90% power to take off distance, but my main question in this thread is "is it ideal to throw a 370' disc on a 350 hole to maximize your chance of having a high % birdie putt even if you dont throw it well or should you throw a slower disc that will just get you there if you throw it well?"

All this sounds like you need to practice hyzers and throwing at different power levels.

I'm there at the moment. I'm better at power control than I used to be but hyzers are a fairly new thing for me. Usable on too few holes around here has delayed this as a point to study.

 

[cmlasley]

my main question in this thread is "is it ideal to throw a 370' disc on a 350 hole to maximize your chance of having a high % birdie putt even if you dont throw it well or should you throw a slower disc that will just get you there if you throw it well?"

You answered your own question. Throw the shot with the greatest margin for error. This is why, if given the choice, I will throw a hyzer shot every time. It is just more consistent for me.