Minimum # of driver molds....help choose

[todvan]

Right now my max drive is just over 300 ft with a Star Beast thrown on an S curve. I want to minimize my # of driver molds to learn them well. Maybe only 3.

Control - I really like my Star TL, but don't trust it into the wind. Should I try a teebird? Star or DX?

Understable - Champ Roadrunner has been ok for holding long turns and downwind drives. Anything else I should consider?

Stable Distance - I really like the Beast but it is flipping too much into the wind. From the charts I am thinking about trying the SL? Because I don't have big distance, discs that some people think are semi-stable are too overstable for me. For instance, I have been using a Z Crush as my super overstable into the wind disc . What do you recommend?

Is 3 driver molds a good plan? I really want to simplify. Thanks!

 

[cmlasley]

With that distance, you should probably pick up a lighter DX Teebird for distance (at first it will likely fly fairly overstable for you if you haven't developed torque problems), Gazelle in the 165-172g range for control (and actually, you could use this for your main driver out to about 330'), and maybe get a Banshee (DX or Champ, but DX is more friendly and controllable) for the wind beater-spike hyzer-crazy overstable slot.

If your Beast is not coming back from an anny release, you can learn to hyzerflip it and use it in calm conditions for max D (if you have problems flipping it up, you can do that with your Roadrunner, too).

Keep your Roadrunner until your Teebird or Gazelle are beat enough to rotate into that slot, then get new ones to replace them. Rinse. Repeat.

 

[RS39]

Keep the TL, replace the RR with a heavy Stingray for staying right (not quite the distance but way less spazzy), replace Beast/Crush with a 170ish Orion in base plastic.

Snap the OLF with a wee bit of anny for an 85% flight bearing a wee right, then 15% S back left for net straight and you won't miss the Beast much. Or flatten to plunk left more but fight wind mo betta.

NO disc difficulty ratings over 4 for now.

 

[Frank Delicious]

With that distance, you should probably pick up a lighter DX Teebird for distance (at first it will likely fly fairly overstable for you if you haven't developed torque problems), Gazelle in the 165-172g range for control (and actually, you could use this for your main driver out to about 330'), and maybe get a Banshee (DX or Champ, but DX is more friendly and controllable) for the wind beater-spike hyzer-crazy overstable slot.

If your Beast is not coming back from an anny release, you can learn to hyzerflip it and use it in calm conditions for max D (if you have problems flipping it up, you can do that with your Roadrunner, too).

Keep your Roadrunner until your Teebird or Gazelle are beat enough to rotate into that slot, then get new ones to replace them. Rinse. Repeat.

Yeah this sounds like good advice.

I don't think the SL is probably going to be the best for you. It is going to get just as flippy as the beast once it beats in a little. If you really want to keep the beast around but want something more stable you could get a Star or Champ Orc.

P.S. whats up with people always just recommending their bag whenever someone asks for advice?

 

[todvan]

Thanks for the replies so far. I forgot to say that I like drivers at around 170g.

Keep your Roadrunner until your Teebird or Gazelle are beat enough to rotate into that slot, then get new ones to replace them. Rinse. Repeat.

I have'nt ever beat a stable disc enough that it becomes as understable as a Roadrunner - maybe I'm too easy on my discs or don't play enough? Even some old eagles with cuts in the rim will start to turn, but still fade back. I either need a driver that holds the turn all the way or need to work on my forehand with a stable disc for those shots. Anyone do this?

I'm fairly sure the TL will keep the control driver slot - I really like this one.

I have read a lot of good comments on the SOLF - I'm thinking this will be stable enough for me (and my arm speed) to use for the stable distance driver slot - agree? Maybe as they wear they will become hyzer flip drivers and take the place of the Beast?

Who else has a minimum # of driver molds in their bag and what do you use?

 

[JeremySW]

I have 3,

Two Teebirds(seasoned DX) Controlled distance.

Gazelle(seasoned DX) not as much D as the Teebird, but extremely straight and controllable, this thing gets duty in wind/tight fairways.

Orc(168ish BEAT champ) Turnover disc or hyzer-flip to really good D.

All I really need, I might try out an Eagle-X as a possible replacement for the gazelle since sometimes I feel like its just a moderately longer Roc. But with those 3 I can shoot left, straight, and right(i'm RHBH) for pretty controllable distances.

 

[flyingdisc.us]

Teebird (champ and star)
TL (star)
Wraiths (mostly star)

I also have been using a teerex and a monster for specific shots, but want to get rid of them as well. I used to get a little plastic crazy myself.

 

[cmlasley]

I have read a lot of good comments on the SOLF - I'm thinking this will be stable enough for me (and my arm speed) to use for the stable distance driver slot - agree? Maybe as they wear they will become hyzer flip drivers and take the place of the Beast?

SOLFs are great, but not until you are putting Teebirds 340-360'.

 

[J-Man]

I only carry 2 driver molds ... the Crush and the Pred. I carry the Crush in varying levels from newer Z for stability to beat 3 years in X for the turn over (3 total). The Pred at 166 in Z for controlled straight with a fade finish, and a well seasoned X for S turns. Find a few that you throw well out of the box then throw them for a season or two so you'll be able to experience that mold from the box through you beating them to crap stages. It'll take you some time but that's the fun, and you'll cut the number of molds you throw; not necessarily the number of discs you'll carry, because you'll want to take all the seasoned plastic you've developed to take on any shot on any course.