Should I get rid of the Groove I just bought because I didn't know any better?
You can always use it for target practice...
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Should I get rid of the Groove I just bought because I didn't know any better?
Should I get rid of the Groove I just bought because I didn't know any better?
Nah, any disc is worth a test drive first. The only reason to drop a Groove immediately is if it's obviously way too fast for you.
Grooves are great for dyeing practice too.
It's all relative, more or less.How can you tell if a disc is way too fast for you? Serious question.
How can you tell if a disc is way too fast for you? Serious question.
I'd say that as a general rule of thumb you should only throw putters / mids until you can get them out to 300ft, then add in fairway drivers until you're throwing 350ft, and only bust out distance drivers (speed 10 an above) if you're throwing 350+.
I'm going to respectfully disagree a little bit.
Even absolute beginners are fine throwing really slow drivers like Cheetahs, Leopards, Cyclones, etc, especially in base plastic. Drivers teach you how to throw with proper nose angle a lot better than the more nose up forgiving mids and putters. The other wrinkle to this is that even if you can't throw a driver that much farther than a mid or putter, they're still useful b/c they fly on lower lines easier and if you play predominantly wooded courses often you'll encounter a lot of low ceiling fairways where a driver is often a more rewarding choice.
Basically, anyone trying to become a well-rounded a disc golfer shouldn't be afraid to bag a slow fairway driver at all. You just don't want to fall in the trap of, "well, I should drive my driver off the tee every hole b/c it says driver on it, and only use my putter to putt with," and so forth.
I'm going to respectfully disagree a little bit.
Even absolute beginners are fine throwing really slow drivers like Cheetahs, Leopards, Cyclones, etc, especially in base plastic.
Precisely, well stated. For n00bs, it's generally best to err on the side of caution and try base plastic first b/c: A) it's cheap, B) it's more likely to be straight and C) a lot of the older discs fly better (glide, go farther) in them (b/c their molds were designed before the Champ kind of plastic was available).Base plastics are generally slower and have more "glide" to them than compared to premium plastics which are faster and generally more overstable than a base plastic of the same mold.
Its not a huge deal though as there are still understable premium plastic discs and IMO boils down to the players own preference in cost, feel and availability. I dont carry any baseline discs fwiw but they have unique flights and beat in to become some of the most workable discs you could have.
Nukes are pretty inconsistent so you probably just need to break those in and see what you have. Your distances are a little on the minimal limits for having business throwing something as fast as a Nuke so I can't really comment on them being too fast without seeing you throw. You could see some benefit from throwing something a little slower or you could be a form tweak away from tacking on an extra 50' or so onto your throw, could go either way.Thanks for the responses guys some good info there. Like I said I'm only 4 months or so in so still learning.
The reason I asked mainly was because I started out with a NukeSS as my only driver which is now beat in pretty good. I am now turning it over or flipping. Today I drove it pretty consistently 375-400 on long T-shots that needed it and it was a feeling of accomplishment to see the disc start on a slight hyzer and then pop up and just gooooo.
Conversely I have a standard Nuke and another SS that I haven't thrown much that really seem to fade hard. I'm wondering I need to throw them each more to get them seasoned before I will really see what they will do or could it be that they are just still too fast for me?
Appreciate all the feedback, one think I am really digging about this community is the general helpfulness of the people involved.
I'm going to respectfully disagree a little bit.
Even absolute beginners are fine throwing really slow drivers like Cheetahs, Leopards, Cyclones, etc, especially in base plastic. Drivers teach you how to throw with proper nose angle a lot better than the more nose up forgiving mids and putters. The other wrinkle to this is that even if you can't throw a driver that much farther than a mid or putter, they're still useful b/c they fly on lower lines easier and if you play predominantly wooded courses often you'll encounter a lot of low ceiling fairways where a driver is often a more rewarding choice.
Basically, anyone trying to become a well-rounded a disc golfer shouldn't be afraid to bag a slow fairway driver at all. You just don't want to fall in the trap of, "well, I should drive my driver off the tee every hole b/c it says driver on it, and only use my putter to putt with," and so forth.
1. Sleepy is stickies on top of the market place. It's the way we rate used discs for sale or trade.Sorry these may be silly questions..
What is the "sleepy scale" people use when selling disc.
The Inova disc that have the BIG star are often times advertised as First Run, is this correct? Also many of them dont have the mold printed on them? sure would be nice to have the name of disc to simplify identifying it later..
One last one.. Jolly Rancher plastic.. please explain, I have a Mako 3 St Patricks day stamp I believe I read that it was JR plastic.. seems very similar to Champ plastic
Thanks
Sorry these may be silly questions..
What is the "sleepy scale" people use when selling disc.
The Inova disc that have the BIG star are often times advertised as First Run, is this correct? Also many of them dont have the mold printed on them? sure would be nice to have the name of disc to simplify identifying it later..
One last one.. Jolly Rancher plastic.. please explain, I have a Mako 3 St Patricks day stamp I believe I read that it was JR plastic.. seems very similar to Champ plastic
Thanks
Disc Condition Scale aka "The Sleepy Scale"
10 - Never thrown, no ink, brand new condition
9 - Field tested or used for one or two rounds
8 - Lightly used with very minimal wear
7 - Used with some minor dings or scuffs but still in good shape
6 - Typical used disc with the usual dings, scratches but still worthy
5 - Kinda beat, significant wear, has lost a good bit of it's stability
4 - Beat up turnover disc with some evident war story wear
3 or under - Beat to Hades dog chew toy
When people set up a photo shoot in #6 fairway because they don't know there's a disc course there, do you:
attempt to get them to move
throw way around them knowing you're going to lose a stroke
skip the hole?