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Question on pull

LOL

Give me 30 peck drills now private!

Can you send me the link on the peck drill so I can catch up with your abilities oh mighty Lith?;)

Never mind...I am going to Flip so I can think I am special...later and have a good weekend Lithi....I'll tell my boyz about your superior skillz and regimented style of instruction...you can post well too....later bro...and win some money this weekend for me to take when you come to MI...Peace!
 
Well I tried it but not at a course that very open for error and I paayed a few times. I think it is still safe to not incorporate the reach back for my controlled shots since those have gotten better but I did it anyway just to get a feel for it.

From a stand still, I was out-distancing my previous run up drives, enough to take my putter from 235' up to the 250' I wanted to get it to. My Core and above I cant tell you cause the course didnt have enough room. I just gotta remember I dont have to pull hard but let it just blast out once my elbow bends when it needs to straighten out.

I did try my Leo for a nice controlled 280' anny shot and seemed to have barely put anything on it; little enough to have it stop turning but it didnt fade out; it kept gliding and probably would have went well past the 280' if it didnt run out of room into a tree. Then I just had to try my DX Valk and I got over excited and yanked the crap out of it and into a tree and now part of the rim is bent downward about 2 inches wide. Probably would not have mattered cause that thing made a hell of a rip noise out of my hand whizzing into the tree; it would have smacked trees eventually if it hadnt hit that one at this course.

Heading to a bigger course tomorrow.
 
This is a post I made recently on DGR for someone. It goes over all the steps in your body positioning how you "end up" with the disc tucked into your pec, which is where the right pec drill Starts. The first part is where you might have been off some, everyone varies on how far they turn their body from the target. You want your shoulders roughly 180* from the target. This is generally for more distance.
Can you describe a little more about "closing" your wrist. Is that the point at which you really tighten up your grip on the disc? Or is it a deliberate act of bending the wrist back toward your forearm? A friend of mine does this on every drive, but I thought I read somewhere that was counter-productive.
 
Tech, the farther reach back is just mainly for big distance. It sounds like you're probably still struggling with timing at those distance. Or were you throwing everything stand still? If so, you're not doing bad at all and sounds like you're making progress. I seen you mention a stand still, but I didn't know if you meant for all your drives. If you're throwing from a stand still, yeah that reach back will help you pull out maybe 320'-350'. If you're doing a run up then you're struggling with timing.

Can you describe a little more about "closing" your wrist. Is that the point at which you really tighten up your grip on the disc? Or is it a deliberate act of bending the wrist back toward your forearm? A friend of mine does this on every drive, but I thought I read somewhere that was counter-productive.

This is throwing back handed, I'm sure you understood that. Just clarifying. What you said that I underlined is correct. Yes, the point is to physically close the wrist, bending it toward your forearm. During this part of the pull through, it tucks the disc into your pec area if you follow the body positioning correctly. It's only counter-productive IF you don't allow your wrist to freely open when it comes to the end, it sort of acts as a spring, flinging the disc. "Snapping" the disc, like a towel. When the disc reaches the end of your throw, your wrist will be the last part that half "opens" meaning straightening out neutral with your wrist, due to the inertia of the disc coming through. That's where most people come to.

Now, part I mentioned above in my article about "fully opening" the wrist, bringing the wrist past the neutral position is a bit more complicated, and it changes most of your throw. The way you do this, is once the wrist starts to open, just as your forearm starts to open due to inertia, you physically use your muscles in opening it. So once the wrist comes to the neutral position, you physically push your wrist "fully" open, past neutral. It sounds easy, but it's harder than you'd imagine. The reason I stress this, is the same reason it was stressed to me. Because, once you learn to hit it, everything has to be changed with your throw to better facilitate the hit. Meaning, all the timing and everything you done before, probably won't work with the new "hit". But, this is for the good, don't let that scare you It just means you should really focus on this extension of your wrist. And, learning to do it, as once you build your throw around this, you'll ultimately build a much more powerful, snap oriented throw.
 
I did all the same. Basically toward the front of the tee pad stood with my back toward the target, left foot pointing way from the basket and my right foot squared and just shifted my body weight from my left foot to my right in the throw as I turned. Its definately timing but I really feel it will be worth it to get that worked out.

The closing of the wrist you are talking about for me is automatic in the pull how I am doing it. The disc coming by my right pec kind of forces it.
 
And now back to our regularly scheduled programming. :gross:
lawlz.

If you're throwing stand still you're doing pretty well. Those distances aren't terrible, you're timing is getting better. You sound like you're making progress.

Now, it will close some if you keep the disc close to your body. Just doing this ensures it closes all the way, and keeps the wrist from opening too early if your timing is off. But, you still don't want to tense up during this, as you'll likely throw your timing off of your wrist opening if you stay tensed. The first part of the wrist opening is due to inertia, and the rest is done by you.
 
Just got back from a couple rounds and I will say it is very hard. Its like I am learning all over again but yet with a good 15-25' more distance at a standstill then I was getting with a run up before; which just means I gotta chace it further. I'll get it though.

It wasnt all that bad because I shot my PB of the season for the course I was at but then the 2nd round I had a really bad hole drives putts and approaches all and was noticably flustered and just kept getting worse from there to where I stopped counting; but I seemed to calm down after that and I think the back 9 were pretty good.

Going to take tomorrow off and go out Monday.

Thanks for all your help.
 
Lith, I was under the impression that the curling of the wrist was a natural occurance of arm speed and that intentionaly curling it was a no-no.
I'm confused:(
 
As I explained above, it's only bad if you hinder the opening of the wrist. Which comes after the arm is extending. It comes to the point in timing; it can and will happen due to inertia. But, what happens if you tuck it in, it reduces the chance of the disc bouncing out, and the wrist extending before your forearm reaches the end of it's extension. Therefore, reducing the amount of possible energy transfer to the disc. BUT, you have to stay loose during your pull, it takes nearly no energy at all to tuck the wrist. Closing it actually ensures that it does open, and isn't left open through to the hit.

But, the the this is all over shadowed by the main thing that makes this not so important. Timing. If your timing is right, this will happen almost automatically, and you won't have to worry about it.
 
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