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Approaching the basket techniques

JFibeZZZ

Birdie Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
464
I'm no newbie, but I'm no Paul Mcbeth. And there are still many parts of my game that I need to improve and reinvent sometimes as I get info or learn from mistakes.

I used to just keep my feet planted and reach back on approaches of about 50 - 75 feet from the basket. It was terrible form and felt wrong, but just recently started doing a mini x step and it has significantly improved my accuracy.

Anybody use a similar technique or what other options are out there?
 
Yes- Most of the time if there is room you will find a lot of players using a step or small run up. Stand still throws require different timing and andjustments for angles.

Bottom line on approaches:
-If you can use a hyzer-- take it..
-Don't aim AT the basket unless your confident in making the shot
-Shorter reach back for shorter throws. Most of the time people compensate with too much reach back from a standstill to try and get power thus losing accuracy.
 
True and a hyzer is what I always do. I'm finally starting to realize at what range to do which technique.
 
for me outside of 100'ish feet I miiiiight be doing a stand still up to the 200's but really my long putts and stand still game is one like my short drives and up shots are one. It just makes for less decisions and factors you need to worry about. I know stepping into a throw is comfortable and works so I do it most of the time. There are players who would do it opposite as well but finding a comfort zone and simplifying your shots is key.
 
I find that the shorter the reach back on approaches, the more I make them and the closer to the basket they are when I don't. I throw the slowest disc I can and "play catch" with the basket.

Of course, this all changes in windy conditions. Then it's low and firm to the base for an easy layup.
 
I do a standstill inside of about 175-200'. I've found that as long as I pay attention to the reach back direction I have pretty good accuracy. My bigger problem is distance estimating. Maybe I should try more hyzer approach shots.
 
A. Jump putt. I do pretty much anything up to 100', get comfortable at 40', then greater distances will come. At 100', the putter is traveling a flex line that is dying right towards the basket (ideally), usually lands pretty close depending on how aggressive I get.

B. Inside 40' (putting motion) or outside 100' (throwing approach) the same principles apply. The fewer moving parts, the better. Introducing walkups or additional movement introduces more room for variance. Practice stand and deliver (winter in wi/mn is perfect for this, I've been practicing all winter), it will not hurt your game and can only improve consistency.

C. Control distance with reachback, hyzer angle, disc speed, and disc stability.
 
I personally stand still but that's because I've spent hours working on my drives from a standstill in the practice field when I was learning to shift my weight properly. Now I can comfortably throw 250+ from a standstill.

My only change is that if I'm close enough to do a long putt I will instead of approach
 
throw the disc that will go the distance with <= 80% effort and practice throwing from a standstill. it will help with you have to play in sh!tty and/or rough conditions.
 
for me outside of 100'ish feet I miiiiight be doing a stand still up to the 200's but really my long putts and stand still game is one like my short drives and up shots are one. It just makes for less decisions and factors you need to worry about. I know stepping into a throw is comfortable and works so I do it most of the time. There are players who would do it opposite as well but finding a comfort zone and simplifying your shots is key.

I am with chains here. Simpliying your shot is great advice. No real right or wrong here. I use a step once the shot start reaching 200. I don't use a lot of hyzer, opting to go at the pin most shots, but giving myself a little room to work right to left. (RHBH). Using a putter when I can. Some develop a great relationship with an approach disc. Mtrcty5, here is a Rhino fiend. Uses this disc as a work horse for approach. Get a consistant hyzer approach that has a reliable flight path and digs in and stops at the pin like.....well, a rhino. Practice, man.
 
Zen and the Art of Disc Golf

I find that on approaches if I think about it, I'll probably screw it up (other than compensating for wind). However, I instinctively either do or don't take a step into my throw on approaches... I'd say that cutoff is probably around 125 ft... 'ish? Any closer, and I don't need any "help" reaching the basket -seems less moving parts makes for a more consistent and accurate delivery. Any farther, and it I need to "strong-arm" it to reach unless I step into my throw.

Even though I may have fewer moving parts when I stand and deliver, it seems the extra oomph I need to get there messes me up, but a nice smooth step when I throw nets better results. Either way, when I over think it, I'm toast. As Bruce Lee said, "Don't think. Feeeeeeel."


If you want to practice longer apraoches with your feet planted, try playing in deep snow or icy conditions.
 
I make more mistakes at the 150' range, I find it harder to gauge the power. I had to stop using my Aviar at that distance due to overthrowing. I know "when in doubt, hyzer" but I still throw the straight-and-fade shot whenever it's an option.

At >100' I usually do a jump putt form and lay up. This is the real reason I carry an Aviar with Wizards. The extra glide is very noticeable. I don't make putts with it, really. What it does do is allow me to keep my normal putting stance out to 60/70' and jumper stance out to 100' or so, allowing me to be squared up to the target with less chance to get off-line vs a backhand form. I also really like it on 220-250' holes.

Little 90%-wrist flicks (o/s putter/mid, even Firebird) are very reliable and are easier to execute from a standstill than BH.
 
Anything from 60' to about 200' (on approaches) is a standstill shot for me...living in the snow half the year means you have to learn one, and it's become an invaluable part of my game. It takes a bit to get good at, but once you get comfortable with the release angles and weight shift, I find it to be quite accurate.

I will add that I've started working on a step through putting motion for shots over 40'...if it works out, I'd like to be able to use it to 80ish' at some point.
 
Anything from 60' to about 200' (on approaches) is a standstill shot for me...living in the snow half the year means you have to learn one, and it's become an invaluable part of my game. It takes a bit to get good at, but once you get comfortable with the release angles and weight shift, I find it to be quite accurate.

I will add that I've started working on a step through putting motion for shots over 40'...if it works out, I'd like to be able to use it to 80ish' at some point.
:hfive: Living in Wisconsin you need to have a good standstill throw. When throwing on ice & snow a run up isn't always a option. As Stardoggy said its been an invauable adition to my game. I throw from a standstill from about 100 - 250'. I agree with the others that said the less moving parts in your throw the better. Throwing from a standstill is harder to master than a short run up but better in the long run IMO.

From outside of the circle to around 100' I use a step through putt. I find I'm more consistent doing a step through putt than a jump putt. I see way to many people illegally jump putting. I know when I used to jump putt I didn't always do it properly. I'd rather not even have to deal with the possibility of being called out for illegally jump putting in tourneys. Step through putting has less moving parts than jump putting. It also allows me to keep my form closer to what it is inside the circle.

Stardoggy, you should definitely stick with the step through. Maybe its a WI thing but after jump putting for awhile in the winter I quickly switched to the step through. I even fell once when I landed on some ice doing a jump putt at Dretzkas winter course.
 
I make more mistakes at the 150' range, I find it harder to gauge the power. I had to stop using my Aviar at that distance due to overthrowing. I know "when in doubt, hyzer" but I still throw the straight-and-fade shot whenever it's an option.

At >100' I usually do a jump putt form and lay up. This is the real reason I carry an Aviar with Wizards. The extra glide is very noticeable. I don't make putts with it, really. What it does do is allow me to keep my normal putting stance out to 60/70' and jumper stance out to 100' or so, allowing me to be squared up to the target with less chance to get off-line vs a backhand form. I also really like it on 220-250' holes.

Little 90%-wrist flicks (o/s putter/mid, even Firebird) are very reliable and are easier to execute from a standstill than BH.




THIS.
 
I am not good at FH hand shots but I just couldn't bring mysel to even try them when putting, seems a lot less reliable.
 
i felt the same way until i was just goofing around one day and tried it.
i don't have a huge FH... but can control a 100-150' flick well enough that i'm going for birdie a LOT more often now and not trying to lay one up close and hope i don't blow the putt for par.
 
Watch McBeth and other pros. A lot of them have a rocking motion setup that ends up with their back foot pushing off the ground to help propel the disc forward. For me, this provides the best degree of accuracy.
 

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