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How I explain disc-flight to Noobs

Rockwell

Birdie Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
301
Here's what I've been telling my friends who are new to the sport:

• Each disc (if thrown flat in calm conditions) has a speed in which it flies straight ahead. (referring to speed moving forward and rotational "spinning" speed)

• If the disc is thrown faster than that speed, it turns to the right. (RHBH)

• If the disc is thrown slower than this, it fades to the left.

• Look for a disc that you can make go its intended "straight ahead speed".

• Once you have that down, work on making the same disc turn to the right and left on purpose while still throwing it flat.

(From there we would begin working on angle of release, but I feel like that is a good foundation for building upon. And that it is more useful to start from a place where you are doing the control work instead of buying different specialized discs to do the work for you)

Do you find this helpful and accurate or should I tweak my thinking about disc flight?
 
Yes, that is all great information and well thought out, but I'm looking for the easiest way to explain it to new throwers. They (and I) Find the numbers that manufactures use to be a bit confusing at first.

I do like the flight charts (colored lines showing flight of disc) that manufacturers use, but that's only accurate if thrown flat at the right speed in the right conditions. So maybe that's how I explain it..."look for a disc you can make match the flight chart. And it's probably not going to be that Boss in your hand..."
 
seems like you make all the important points without clouding them up with too many details. that should work pretty effectively for beginners.

the most important issue that i always try and instill one that you touched on - a higher speed rating on a disc doesn't mean it'll fly faster; it means you need to get it to fly faster (rotate faster) in order to achieve its intended flight path.

i've talked with so many players that have been playing as long/longer than i have that did not understand this concept until i explained it to them!
 
Here's what I've been telling my friends who are new to the sport:

• Each disc (if thrown flat in calm conditions) has a speed in which it flies straight ahead. (referring to speed moving forward and rotational "spinning" speed)

• If the disc is Moving faster than that speed, it turns to the right. (RHBH)

• If the disc is moving slower than this, it fades to the left.

• Look for a disc that you can make go its intended "straight ahead speed".

• Once you have that down, work on making the same disc turn to the right and left on purpose while still throwing it flat.

(From there we would begin working on angle of release, but I feel like that is a good foundation for building upon. And that it is more useful to start from a place where you are doing the control work instead of buying different specialized discs to do the work for you)

Do you find this helpful and accurate or should I tweak my thinking about disc flight?

I've changed the word thrown to moving, since at different times in a disc's flights it's moving/spinning at different speeds.
 
the most important issue that i always try and instill one that you touched on - a higher speed rating on a disc doesn't mean it'll fly faster; it means you need to get it to fly faster (rotate faster) in order to achieve its intended flight path.

Nice way of putting it, and yes, an idea that often gets misconstrued.
 
Faster discs don't lose speed as quickly either. So they get there "faster". They also fall out of the sky "faster".

The thing I was not told starting out was that there's no speed at which you cannot make a disc fly stable. ... I clearly remember thinking I was "overpowering" apes.
 
• Once you have that down, work on making the same disc turn to the right and left on purpose while still throwing it flat.

This one sounds a little odd to me, I'm guessing by flat you mean not throwing way up in the air but using the word flat makes it sound like you're saying throw different lines while still releasing the disc without any anhyzer or hyzer angle. To do that, you have to impart off axis torque, something that's difficult enough to avoid for new players as it is.
 
• Each disc (if thrown flat in calm conditions) has a speed in which it flies straight ahead. (referring to speed moving forward and rotational "spinning" speed)
That may be true, and it's probably a decent simplification for what you're trying to accomplish, but I don't think that's a great way to think about discs over the long run. I prefer to think of each disc having a range of speeds in which it will act "as intended" or "as flight charts indicate." Some discs will need to be over powered or under powered compared to what flight charts indicate to fly straight.
 
Just a slice of my trademarked and patented set of analogies, fine-tuned over several years in the DN pro shop...

Would you put race car tires on a bicycle to make it go faster? No... those tires are made to handle intense, rarely-found, upper-range extraordinary power. If you put pedal power behind those tires, you'll go slower with greater effort than if you used the appropriate tires. Tires match the engine/fuel, they don't provide it. This big fat rim is the same thing as a race car tire... it won't help you any unless you've got the engine and fuel, meaning technique and power.

Tell them this, then let them try throwing a few different speeds of neutral discs. They'll have a better grasp on cruising speed and discing down (although without the depth of theory or vocabulary) than a lot of more experienced players.
 
Just a slice of my trademarked and patented set of analogies, fine-tuned over several years in the DN pro shop...

Would you put race car tires on a bicycle to make it go faster? No... those tires are made to handle intense, rarely-found, upper-range extraordinary power. If you put pedal power behind those tires, you'll go slower with greater effort than if you used the appropriate tires. Tires match the engine/fuel, they don't provide it. This big fat rim is the same thing as a race car tire... it won't help you any unless you've got the engine and fuel, meaning technique and power.

Tell them this, then let them try throwing a few different speeds of neutral discs. They'll have a better grasp on cruising speed and discing down (although without the depth of theory or vocabulary) than a lot of more experienced players.

:thmbup: :clap:
 
This one sounds a little odd to me, I'm guessing by flat you mean not throwing way up in the air but using the word flat makes it sound like you're saying throw different lines while still releasing the disc without any anhyzer or hyzer angle. To do that, you have to impart off axis torque, something that's difficult enough to avoid for new players as it is.

I think he's referring to bending at the hips/waist to throw hyzer/anhyzer shots as opposed to changing the wrist angle/position.
 
I personally just keep throwing information at them in hopes that they will take something out of it

"If you throw enough @#$% on the wall some of it will stick".......right?

I also love talking to newer players about the game and I know that sometimes I talk their ears off more than they can understand/bare to hear. I don't try to scare them, I just put myself in their shoes and try to show them things that I never knew about when I was a new player. (to save them headaches of figuring it out on their own)

We were all new at one time........don't ever forget that.
 
That may be true, and it's probably a decent simplification for what you're trying to accomplish, but I don't think that's a great way to think about discs over the long run. I prefer to think of each disc having a range of speeds in which it will act "as intended" or "as flight charts indicate." Some discs will need to be over powered or under powered compared to what flight charts indicate to fly straight.

To build on this...there are plenty of discs out there that are not designed for a straight line at all. Take a look at any flight-line-charts out there. How many discs have a straight flight? Most are some degree of S curve. Thrown flat, many discs are designed, and will do, something other than a straight line. There is a reason a straight, flat shot is one of the harder things in DG. I wonder how many people would claim they have an easier time throwing a 300ft straight shot versus a 300ft hyzer. Newer players need to be reminded that a dead-nuts straight shot is not the norm. Fade is to be expected on most shots and should be embraced as something to anticipate and learn to control early on.
 
This one sounds a little odd to me, I'm guessing by flat you mean not throwing way up in the air but using the word flat makes it sound like you're saying throw different lines while still releasing the disc without any anhyzer or hyzer angle. To do that, you have to impart off axis torque, something that's difficult enough to avoid for new players as it is.

No, I actually mean throwing it flat (anhyser and hyser are in the next lesson). It is basically reitterating the fact that the amount of spin and speed I put on this can make it go either direction. And to be able to do that on purpose is a good thing. It is also showing them that a neutral disc can be made to do most things, and that they don't have to pull out a firebird or stingray to do that.

And yes, the anhyser and hyser lesson would stress keeping your backbone perpendicular to your arm...not just wrist.
 
Newer players need to be reminded that a dead-nuts straight shot is not the norm. Fade is to be expected on most shots and should be embraced as something to anticipate and learn to control early on.

Yes, but I would rather teach someone to be able to throw straight early on, because playing a hyzer is often just a temporary fix for new players. Which is why you'll often see them putting on a big hyzer line - "if my disc goes left, I'll just play it off to the right". That won't work on all courses and holes, and it doesn't answer their basic question of "why doesn't my disc go straight?"

But I get your basic sentiment and agree.
 
That may be true, and it's probably a decent simplification for what you're trying to accomplish, but I don't think that's a great way to think about discs over the long run. I prefer to think of each disc having a range of speeds in which it will act "as intended" or "as flight charts indicate." Some discs will need to be over powered or under powered compared to what flight charts indicate to fly straight.

It is an oversimplification, yes, but at it's core it's teaching them to control thier discs and make them do what they want them to, not just what a flight chart tells me it does. Sometimes this means overpowering or underpowering, or throwing high/low/extreme angle/ect. It's getting them to think of a golf disc like an ultimate disc.
 
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