[Question] How long does it take you to beat-in a disc?

[Three Putt]

Champ/Z-type plastic takes me about eight years to break in. Star/ESP-type plastic takes me about five years to break in. Pro/X-type plastic is around a year, maybe a little more; KC Pro about the same, DX kinda depends on what I hit and what type of disc it is but by a year it should be good to go. I play twice a week pretty much year-round and three times a week when the weather is nice.

 

[JKieb704]

Champ/Z-type plastic takes me about eight years to break in. Star/ESP-type plastic takes me about five years to break in. Pro/X-type plastic is around a year, maybe a little more; KC Pro about the same, DX kinda depends on what I hit and what type of disc it is but by a year it should be good to go.

I feel like this is accurate and what amateur players can expect from their discs.

 

[seedlings]

If you want a disc to beat in faster, do you actually purposely throw it at trees or walls or the ground? I'm legitimately curious.

I play only Star/Z/Big Z/Ti discs in the hope that they retain their flight characteristics as long as possible, but I've heard how some people beat in an overstable Champion disc into something that stays neutral basically forever.

Absolutely. I tommahawk them into the dirt hard as I can 20 times or so to get things kicked off.

 

[Three Putt]

If you want a disc to beat in faster, do you actually purposely throw it at trees or walls or the ground? I'm legitimately curious.

I play only Star/Z/Big Z/Ti discs in the hope that they retain their flight characteristics as long as possible, but I've heard how some people beat in an overstable Champion disc into something that stays neutral basically forever.

You can do this if you want to. throwing drivers down sidewalks or roads so they road rash, slamming them into trees or brick walls, etc., will damage the discs and speed up that process of beating the disc in. You have to be careful as you can trash a disc if you overdue it, but you can.

 

[roggenb3]

The only disc I've ever bothered cycling is a baseline Tank. If we are not included artificially breaking them in, 1 full season gets it right to the sweet spot, which lasts for another season+. Where I can give a good amount of hyzer and it flips to juuussst past straight.

By season 3 (which I have only reached with a couple as I tend to lose them), they are overly flippy and the cycle starts again.

Sometimes when they get there I'll start bagging a new one and just throw it at the ground or a tree or step on it, whatever, anytime I have to wait on the course. You can go from brand new to pretty beat in a couple weeks of that.

 

[seedlings]

Those of you who have cycled discs for years, tell about how long a lifespan is for your favorite discs. A few have already. I've been playing less than a year, so this thread needs to keep going!

 

[disco40]

Champ Leopard and ESP Buzzz each took 9 months of heavy play to break in just right.

 

[ru4por]

A couple years. I throw premium plastic. At that time I give them away and put some new ones in the bag.

 

[Keller]

A DX Teebird is useful until it breaks.

I've been bagging these for 8 years and I'm still throwing them; Star Eagle, DX Roc, KC Roc, Yeti Aviar

 

[GoatPaco]

Those of you who have cycled discs for years, tell about how long a lifespan is for your favorite discs. A few have already. I've been playing less than a year, so this thread needs to keep going!

Champion plastic is useful until it breaks in half. For me, they beat in after about a year and stay there forever.

A Star plastic disc will last 3-5 years before becoming a roller disc (depending on the mold obviously)

 

[Casey 1988]

Prostyle from Lighting if used in a putter or blunt edge midrange from Lighting might last forever, due to how one can bend slightly bent discs that hit a tree back into a micro waffle top that works for the disc. If used for faster discs I suspect the nose edge of disc might be in dented in more but who knows since the plastic was never made for more then mostly putters or some more blunt nosed midrange.

 

[Dingus]

A DX Teebird is useful until it breaks.

I have gotten into the habit of flat topping my beat in DX Teebirds. Boil them and flatten them out. I get about 3 or 4 cycles out of them before they have warps that won't boil out.

 

[Al Dente]

I've learned not to have any expectations. Discs break in suddenly, slowly or never. I've tried to hasten the process through boiling, sanding and bending but my efforts didn't produce reliable results. It is wild how a driver can suddenly become flippy, seemingly mid round.

 

[VictorB]

There's 2 ways people seen to interpret 'beat in'

1. thrown enough to 'knock the new off' and flies like it's supposed to.

2. been thrown so much that the intended flight characteristics have drastically changed.

How long depends on what type of course you play. Heavy woods, you might be able to get a dx roc beat into flippy in a full season. I play somewhat wooded courses, and still have a Z Comet from 2009ish that flies perfectly, that got a ton of use in the first 5 years or so I had it (now it's in and out with seasonal rotations)

Different plastics and discs take different amounts of time to really get broken in. It's a really nebulous answer to a hard to pin down question.

 

[JuanA]

^ I usually lose my discs somewhere between 1 and 2.

 

[Alexplz]

I've learned not to have any expectations. Discs break in suddenly, slowly or never. I've tried to hasten the process through boiling, sanding and bending but my efforts didn't produce reliable results. It is wild how a driver can suddenly become flippy, seemingly mid round.

The most surprising part of the beat in process to me is just how bizarrely resistant some discs are to it.

Case in point - I had this X buzzz that I decided to experiment on, as I really liked the idea of bagging an US buzzz.

Blasted that thing into a brick wall to the point where I ended up with a small cut from one of the gashes ripping away from my hand. Bended it like crazy, even resorting to boiling it and letting it cool in a little "jig" to produce a permanent deformation. The damn thing went from 5/4/0/1.5 to like, 5/5/-.5/1 or something. Could not get it to turn over or stay right reliably.

On the other hand I have had some success in beating in discs, mostly drivers. Also, putters seem to beat in nicely/somewhat quickly as well. Mids I guess are in a bit of a no man's land where they have that beefy rim, but they aren't deep enough for impacts to have a lot of leverage to bend the rim.

 

[elmexdela]

The most surprising part of the beat in process to me is just how bizarrely resistant some discs are to it.

Case in point - I had this X buzzz that I decided to experiment on, as I really liked the idea of bagging an US buzzz.

Blasted that thing into a brick wall to the point where I ended up with a small cut from one of the gashes ripping away from my hand. Bended it like crazy, even resorting to boiling it and letting it cool in a little "jig" to produce a permanent deformation. The damn thing went from 5/4/0/1.5 to like, 5/5/-.5/1 or something. Could not get it to turn over or stay right reliably.

On the other hand I have had some success in beating in discs, mostly drivers. Also, putters seem to beat in nicely/somewhat quickly as well. Mids I guess are in a bit of a no man's land where they have that beefy rim, but they aren't deep enough for impacts to have a lot of leverage to bend the rim.

i didnt know you did the brick wall treatment to your x buzz

ive worked on a few x buzzes for a few years and never got them to flip machine status

just got em to a little turn with baby fade

pro d will do that but the plastic is so awful most dont like it

ive done the brick wall treatment to an electron ion and it barely phased it flight wise but it sure looked like an ugly disc