Is this how to build a foundation?

[Casey 1988]

SaROCaM-
please excuse this is probably one of the ultimate 'noob' questions, lol but when you say "mold" ... I'm not following exactly what you mean. Do you mean the exact model, like my GStar leopard 3, is that a mold? or does a mold refer to a larger group of discs and the GStar Leopard 3 could be one member of that group or type? I'm curious to know because it sounds like you are talking about building a bag off of certain arcehtypes or 'core molds'; I'm guessing these would be your top most favorite models of putter(s), midrange, fairway driver and distance driver?? sort of embarrassing but I just had to ask

A mold is like the Shark, then there is the Star, G-Star, and DX. Another is the Shark 3 a different mold going oop eventually for the Lion a mold Dave D is forcing on everybody that is not going to work for the few (not me) who can't use discs with a bead in the throwing part of the game including some parts of the approach/chip shots.

 

[SaROCaM]

SaROCaM-
please excuse this is probably one of the ultimate 'noob' questions, lol but when you say "mold" ... I'm not following exactly what you mean. Do you mean the exact model, like my GStar leopard 3, is that a mold? or does a mold refer to a larger group of discs and the GStar Leopard 3 could be one member of that group or type? I'm curious to know because it sounds like you are talking about building a bag off of certain arcehtypes or 'core molds'; I'm guessing these would be your top most favorite models of putter(s), midrange, fairway driver and distance driver?? sort of embarrassing but I just had to ask

No worries, there's a lot of jargon. Think of mold as a particular model of disc; for example, a Leopard3 vs a Teebird3. Both are distinct molds or models of discs in the group of fairway drivers. GStar, Star, Champion, DX, etc refer to the plastic type that is molded up. So GStar Leopard3 and Champion Leopard3 are the same mold, different plastics.

 

[Rastnav]

SaROCaM-
please excuse this is probably one of the ultimate 'noob' questions, lol but when you say "mold" ... I'm not following exactly what you mean. Do you mean the exact model, like my GStar leopard 3, is that a mold? or does a mold refer to a larger group of discs and the GStar Leopard 3 could be one member of that group or type? I'm curious to know because it sounds like you are talking about building a bag off of certain arcehtypes or 'core molds'; I'm guessing these would be your top most favorite models of putter(s), midrange, fairway driver and distance driver?? sort of embarrassing but I just had to ask

What those above me said, but to help it make sense (potentially), a "mold" is literally a mold, the metal, two piece cavity into which plastic is injected to make a disc. All the discs that come out of that mold are the same mold of disc. An Innova Roc is a mold. A Discraft Buzzz is a different mold, etc.

The various different kinds of plastics (ex: say Innova's DX, GStar, Star, Champion, etc.) get injected into the same mold to make the disc in different plastics. The different plastics come out of the mold and cool slightly differently, so two different discs, even in the same plastic, may look a little different.

Obviously there hasn't been only one distinct copy of any specific mold, they wear out, etc., but theoretically all of those physical molds for a named disc are the same shape.

 

[centervolume]

so I'm starting to think down the road a couple steps toward joining PDGA in order to participate in tournaments, how to prepare myself for that as a goal. There aren't a bunch close by but I like the idea of competition, getting out and exploring beyond my back yard. Not sure when I'd be ready for competition. The course I have created would be on the heavily wooded side of things I, so I was wondering if these par distances seem about right.

1. 560' par 4
2. 415' par 4
3. 260' par 3
4. 290' par 3
5. 555' par 4
6. 360' par 3
7. 260' par 3
8. 290' par 3
9. 570' par 4

My experience with the sport so far is that I need about 3 holes to warm up in the morning, then I do the circuit about 3 times and try to observe rules of play with some small concessions that I have been rolling back on in order to challenge myself, raise the bar and get closer to what tournament play would be like. Since I've been keeping score I notice that I'm pretty sporadic between +1 and up to +6 on any given 9-hole round, averaging about +3 or so. My first round usually is the worst, then it gets better, but if I have a really bad hole it's a challenge to mentally not let that wreck the upcoming holes.. I guess that's part of what makes golf what it is.

I'm thinking of a benchmark of consistency to achieve before joining and going to a tournament, like +3 or better for a week... or even tougher. I'd need to fill out my bag (and actually get a bag, lol) as well so any input on how to transition out of my super local makeshift course towards tournament play would be good. I have not played the handful of courses within an hour of where I live so I know that's a start. It will probably give me the best sense of where I am.

Interested to hear your stories of stating up, gauging your level especially your first tournament experiences, any a-ha moments that came along with taking that step

 

[Rastnav]

Par is not just distance dependent, but line shape dependent. If you have a 300' hole that bends back 120 degrees and 200 feet, that might be a par 4. Conversely, a wide open 415' hole may be a par 3. Absent t knowing something about lines, it's hard to know if you assigned pars are fair.

I will say that seem typical for many courses, so you may be just right.

Someday I'll play a tournament, but probably not until a vaccine comes along.

 

[centervolume]

ok here is an image of the plot of land with an approximation of the course layout drawn in. There are what may have been logging roads through there and that's what the holes follow. The pathways go around the perimeter and then cut through the middle close to the bottom. That middle pathway is used for hole 1 (right to left) and then for hole 9 (left to right). Most of the holes are about 20-30 feet wide with a very high canopy of pines. If you've ever been in a gothic cathedral, the canopy reminds me of the vaulted ceilings maybe 75-100 feet high.

 

[Rastnav]

ok here is an image of the plot of land with an approximation of the course layout drawn in. There are what may have been logging roads through there and that's what the holes follow. The pathways go around the perimeter and then cut through the middle close to the bottom. That middle pathway is used for hole 1 (right to left) and then for hole 9 (left to right). Most of the holes are about 20-30 feet wide with a very high canopy of pines. If you've ever been in a gothic cathedral, the canopy reminds me of the vaulted ceilings maybe 75-100 feet high.

I'm not really the guy to ask this question to, but you those don't seem horrendously off. 1, 2 and 9 might play from shorter tee pads than you are using, but be par 3s for rec level players, if they are wide actually open and straight. Or they might be just right.

You could browse courses and look for ones that have course maps to get a sense what might be typical, also.

Example
Valley Springs DGC

 

[Casey 1988]

What those above me said, but to help it make sense (potentially), a "mold" is literally a mold, the metal, two piece cavity into which plastic is injected to make a disc. All the discs that come out of that mold are the same mold of disc. An Innova Roc is a mold. A Discraft Buzzz is a different mold, etc.

The various different kinds of plastics (ex: say Innova's DX, GStar, Star, Champion, etc.) get injected into the same mold to make the disc in different plastics. The different plastics come out of the mold and cool slightly differently, so two different discs, even in the same plastic, may look a little different.

Obviously there hasn't been only one distinct copy of any specific mold, they wear out, etc., but theoretically all of those physical molds for a named disc are the same shape.

But if the companies are smart, now as of 2000's for older brands not started in 2010's that the newer companies also did this from day one, that all the disc companies use the old Disc molds to make a new copy of the mold well before said mold wears out using scan in tech of the mold on an expensive CAD machine. This does not include molds that got tweaked over the years and forgot to/never did keep an older version of the disc mold to make the older version. If it were me making discs I would make them using molds I have the OG backup that only gets scanned in to make a new mold and also keep a tweaked mold for the newer run of slightly modified discs. Also I would only ever dry discs flat, not on side to prevent warping as much as I can.