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[MVP] MVP Anode Putter

explain your theory mathematically, what do you think gives it stability in flight?

Obviously, not many of us could explain things in true mathematical terms. It is a little silly to ask.

There are many things that are going to contribute to the stability of a disc. Design profile, environmental factors (wind), weight, weight distribution, etc. It's common sense though that all golf discs have added weight in their rims and less in the dish. Gyro stability in this sense is nothing new in MVP discs. The base (candy) plastic in the MVP disc plane appears the same thickness/density of comparable discs from other companies. If this is true, then the rim density must also be comparable to stay at the same weight. Therefore, it would seem the 2 plastic concept would not translate to much flight difference.

I'm not bashing their design. I own the discs, I love the discs. I think it is a very smart branding move to create a unique image and product (which is hard to do in this field). I love their candy plastic. I would like to see an ion or anode in 100% that plastic. It probably will not happen though because they need to stay true to their image.

The point you made about different textures in plastics adding to durability in the base and added "grip" in the rim to grab chains is much more of a true revolution in disc design. Glad to see them thinking outside of the box.
 
typical designs have a % of weighting agent throughout the disc, whereas MVP can target the outer area for a different ratio of base/weighting. so no, the core makeup of a proton disc is not the same as the core of a normal champ/z disc.

gyro makes a difference -- compare to QMega (Anode) and Evo Wiz (Ion). also you've got DGR nerds working on wing profile... can't beat that as disc nerds go.


not hating, but based on this you're willing to think it over and maybe be open to a different way of seeing it
The base (candy) plastic in the MVP disc plane appears the same thickness/density of comparable discs from other companies. If this is true,
not true, so other solution
 
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The anode is starting to takeover my bag. It is now my putter putter, and my first choice for most midrange shots. Crazy straight and gluttonous amounts of glide. :clap:
 
that wasn't mathematically at all... and i'm pretty sure that most discs will get flippy if you just grind the **** out off it.

Well that just isn't true at all. I used to throw aviars against the driveway for hours to grind off the bead, and they weren't flippy.

Here is some food for thought: The Ion is more stable than the Anode. The only difference is that the Anode has MORE overmold to cover the bead. Less bead and more overmold = less stable. That doesn't fly with your gyroscopic argument.
 
does anyone have experience forehanding their anode?

I fh mine all the time from 150' on in. The medium is dead straight, aim right at the basket straight. The soft seems easier to work different lines. Easy hyzers, annys that fall nice n flat at the end.
I can actually fh the anode better than I can my vector :\

* oh and you want to be careful fh the soft because its sneaky fast and easy to over shoot your target.
 
The only difference is that the Anode has MORE overmold to cover the bead. Less bead and more overmold = less stable.

I don't think this is true. Since the Ion uses the same core as the Ion, the overmold would have to weigh near the same to produce the same weight ranges with the same plastics. The difference between the Ion and Anode's overmolds has more to do with shape and how it sits on the core. The Ion's nose is fatter, but the Anode's overmold extends lower. The weight is is different places, but is proportionally near the same. This is all my own logic, I've not asked MVP about this.
 
does anyone have experience forehanding their anode?

Yes! The Anode is by far my favorite short range FH disc. It has excellent glide, holds any angle you put it on, and is super accurate. Since I switched from Ions to Anodes I've actually canned a few FH upshots from the 100-150' range. Yesterday I sank a 100' FH anhyzer shot uphill under low lying branches on a tough hole at my home course. The anode would make my bag for FH upshots alone even if I didn't like it for anything else, it's just perfect for these shots.

Check this out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ibsd0dD1y0&t=1m34s

EDIT: More sweet FH shots here, these are even easier to watch: www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ibsd0dD1y0&t=2m45s
 
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Mike, was that flutter off your last drive there?!?!

My hero, how could you fail me like this?

Jokes aside. Loving my 175 soft anode. Need to get another one and possibly a medium in brighter colors to start working with it in drives. Maybe its my eyes, but this "blue - aka navy" is almost black to me and hard to find once I'm in the woods for anything but putts. Love putting with it so far though, so the hatred of the color is a moot point
 
Obviously, not many of us could explain things in true mathematical terms. It is a little silly to ask.

There are many things that are going to contribute to the stability of a disc. Design profile, environmental factors (wind), weight, weight distribution, etc.

translation = i can't add things, and i have no idea what contributes to stability of a disc.
 
One thing that I am really starting to hate about the Anode is how it handles pure head and pure tailwinds. It isn't a stability issue, it is a range issue. The Anode for some reason seems to have more drag than any other disc I have thrown. When I throw it into a head, I have to assume a loss of up to 50'. I have been pushed out an extra 75' without warning by a tail.

I guess it isn't really a complaint, cuz in the end it is up to me to make the corrections. It is just not a correction I am accustomed to making and I am doing a poor job of it.
 
One thing that I am really starting to hate about the Anode is how it handles pure head and pure tailwinds. It isn't a stability issue, it is a range issue. The Anode for some reason seems to have more drag than any other disc I have thrown. When I throw it into a head, I have to assume a loss of up to 50'. I have been pushed out an extra 75' without warning by a tail.

I guess it isn't really a complaint, cuz in the end it is up to me to make the corrections. It is just not a correction I am accustomed to making and I am doing a poor job of it.

I do not know, I was getting some really nice and controlled 260 foot shots on Sunday despite a very strong headwind. It took some good hyzer to throw straight, but I was getting it out there.
 
I do not know, I was getting some really nice and controlled 260 foot shots on Sunday despite a very strong headwind. It took some good hyzer to throw straight, but I was getting it out there.

My bread and butter Anode shot is #13 at Acorn. Throw it high, flat, about 75%, parked. Headwind and I am 40 short. Today in a tailwind I was in #14's fairway down the path from the green. I'm not saying that you can't throw an Anode into or with wind, I just can't gauge what the wind will put my D at.
 
My bread and butter Anode shot is #13 at Acorn. Throw it high, flat, about 75%, parked. Headwind and I am 40 short. Today in a tailwind I was in #14's fairway down the path from the green. I'm not saying that you can't throw an Anode into or with wind, I just can't gauge what the wind will put my D at.

Fair enough. I was parking Hole 6 at Wabun which I believe is 260 feet. Normally I go at it with a mid, but we were playing putters only.
 
The ripples are just visual are they not? It sounds like your discs were warped a bit during shipping (did they come in an envelope?). If set flat or put in your bag the discs will return to shape on their own (mine always have).

Can't quite see the deformity at the anode stamp but the ripples are visible. The discs were in an envelope but they were delivered to my front door (not jammed in my mailbox).
 

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