• Discover new ways to elevate your game with the updated DGCourseReview app!
    It's entirely free and enhanced with features shaped by user feedback to ensure your best experience on the course. (App Store or Google Play)

Who is the padlock guru?

dehaas

* Ace Member *
Joined
Aug 7, 2010
Messages
3,464
Location
Shiloh, IL
So basically here's the rundown. Local course has gateway titan baskets, the sleeves are just galvanized pipe with a hole drilled through, center post has a hole drilled through, padlock inserts through lined up holes...pretty simple.

Couple of sleeves have become damaged over time, and got them replaced today. I know if you were installing a course from scratch there are things that can be done to protect sleeves and locks, but redoing 36 sleeves isn't gonna happen.

So my question is, what's the best long term option for a padlock? The ones used now are just regular outdoor masterlocks but over time they've all gotten jammed up. I've used plenty of wd40 and the keys to them are cheap and I'm afraid to torque on the key much to try to get them open. Do the ones with key hole covers actually work to keep dirt out? Anything that comes with a heavier duty key like a house key? The damaged sleeves mean some of these locks haven't been opened in close to 5 years, and now that I have a sleeve to move the basket to I physically can't.

I'd like to have the entire set use one master key if possible, and would ultimately have a couple of backup locks in case something happens. Is my best bet gonna be to find a locksmith to get what I want, or is there something at like Lowe's that will get the job done? I know heavy duty isn't necessarily gonna be cheap, but I don't want junk and end up having to cut them all off and replace them in a couple of years.
 
I think one of our courses uses these on discatchers. If they're tamper resistant how easy are they to unbolt when you wanna move basket locations?

How about tamper Resistant bolt and nut sets instead of shackled keyed locks?
 
I'll tell you from experience, the old "seized up" master locks will almost always come free if you blast wd-40 in the keyhole then bump the body of the lock with a hammer, while turning the key.

PB blaster will work even better than WD-40
 
One thing we do locally is cover our locks with a piece of bicycle tire tube. Just cut the tube in to 2" sections and stretch them over the lock, covering the keyhole. This does a pretty good job of keeping the gunk out. They only last so long, but usually at least 6 months, and some fall off, but I try to keep a few in my bag to replace as needed. We just have the standard key locks, don't know the brand, but they're round-ish.
 
What model do you order? Didn't know what shackle clearance would be needed.

I don't lock pole holes so I can't give any input there. If you look at their spec sheet it'll guide you through that. (Or you can call them. They're very informed and helpful.) I order the 800 and 900 series with HT stainless shackle. The 900s will defeat a garden variety bolt cutter. I pay about $9.00 each for them. What's nice about dealing directly with a manufacturer is that you can get all your locks keyed alike. HTH.
 
Emailed back and forth a bit with my contact at the local parks department and they like the idea of theft resistant bolts, and are willing to pick up the cost...which is awesome.

Not that the baskets are going to get moved all the time, but my biggest concern with them is the head stripping out since it looks like most have strange patterns cut into the head to make them tough to get apart.
 
Not sure if this helps:

I used to work IT hardware for a general store, and the credit card readers were secured with security screws. All the hardware needed to steal them was available for purchase in the store.

I guess what I'm getting at is hopefully the parks have some security bolts that use something less available than what can be bought/stolen from your local hardware/big box store.
 
I'd venture most basket thefts are crimes of opportunity and most people who steal them don't put a lot of ingenuity into their theft plans.

I mean, I suppose it could happen.
 
Last edited:
I think one of our courses uses these on discatchers. If they're tamper resistant how easy are they to unbolt when you wanna move basket locations?

Tamper resistant is far different from tamper proof. Keep that in mind. A keyed lock will always be best imo.
 
I second the use of wd 40 or pb blaster.....if you spray a bit in every few months or so and work the key in and out just about any lock will work forever imo
 

Latest posts

Top