I tried all I could to throw with my pinky on the rim, but its short, and been broke so many times from football. I ended up stacking my pinky on my ring finger, and it just feels comfortable to me now. I used to throw with a bonapane (moose knuckle) grip, but after a while wanted a more conventional grip to fix my form instead of relying on that grip.
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Grip pressure?
- Thread starter mm1315
- Start date
cblanch4
Bogey Member
So I'm actually guessing its not your grip that's going to take you from throwing 400-450 to 450-500. I'm going to say its hip and weight transfer thing. I've been struggling with the same thing as you. I've been able to throw 400' since I was playing for 6 months. Now I've been playing a little over a year and until a week ago was still only hitting 400 ft on maybe half my drives, I'd get a lucky 420' and on a big distance anny I could push 450. So at the GCC I took some 240 fps slow motion videos of Will, Mcbeth, and Ulibarri. In Mcbeths AMA video he says he can park a 600 ft hole if there is nothing in his way and a 500 ft hole if he has to go around a tree, so it inspired me to throw farther. I studied the videos I took and I noticed two main things.
First, their final stride is huge. I played baseball and in baseball your stance is just wider than your shoulders, their stride was about 1.5 times a baseball stance stride. The next thing I noticed was the instant that their front foot (right foot) touched the ground their back foot was coming off the ground. This was a aha moment for me because it shows what the timing of the weight transfer should be. I normally don't bring my back foot off the ground until right as the disc is leaving my hand which means my weight transfer is slightly late. I had to use slow motion to see the timing of my own backfoot leaving the ground because regular speed it happens too fast.
After doing these two things and about 80 throws in an open field, my distance increased 50 to 60'. Give it a try.
First, their final stride is huge. I played baseball and in baseball your stance is just wider than your shoulders, their stride was about 1.5 times a baseball stance stride. The next thing I noticed was the instant that their front foot (right foot) touched the ground their back foot was coming off the ground. This was a aha moment for me because it shows what the timing of the weight transfer should be. I normally don't bring my back foot off the ground until right as the disc is leaving my hand which means my weight transfer is slightly late. I had to use slow motion to see the timing of my own backfoot leaving the ground because regular speed it happens too fast.
After doing these two things and about 80 throws in an open field, my distance increased 50 to 60'. Give it a try.
chowee21
Par Member
Do you have these videos?
If you used an iPhone, you can upload the slow motion video to vimeo in high def so we can see them!!!!
mm1315
Par Member
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I have been looking into weight transfer and all that, I have videos myself in the last few months but not recently. Like you describe my rear foot comes off the ground about the same time my elbow passes my shoulder and my front foot is firmly planted. I may not be spot on every time but I'm pretty close. I also think my choice of golf lines may be a contributing factor too. I tend to just hyzer flip shots straight at the basket or down the most direct line (10 to 20ft off the ground), instead of the anny or big swooping hyzers like I've seen pros take. I do use some limited hyzer flip to S curve shots on longer holes but you need a lot of room for those, where the courses I play are mostly wooded and don't allow that type of shot.
superium
Eagle Member
Thumb should be inside the rim and pinched, not lying flat on the flight plate.
DougCrawford
Double Eagle Member
From what I have seen, even in super slow motion from Simon Lizotte- is that it is more beneficial to move the thumb more on to the flight plate than the rim- if the fingers are gripped tight under the rim, how do we get the pivot/rip point when the two don't line up??
cblanch4
Bogey Member
Yah..not following that either, especially when the advice is to move the thumb further away from the edge. hmm...
AzteC
Eagle Member
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When it comes to Grip, I think a point that isn't talked about is where the edge of the disc itself fits in the hand. I used to power grip with the edge of the disc pretty much laying on the wrinkle of skin that is in the exact middle of my hand, but I've since been moving closer to the top wrinkle of the hand. I've found I get more pressure on the disc, I've also noticed my fingers are almost angled when gripping the rim instead of coming straight down onto the rim. I've never seen this topic on grip covered.
mm1315
Par Member
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When I was first learning a local touring semi pro showed me how he placed it in his palm. For me if you see the three lines on your hand? It fits in the one closest to my thumb, the fleshy part. From there I tilt my wrist slightly down to where the back of the disc is parallel to the line down the center of my arm.
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All my grips are setup and modified from a two finger grip that starts around 4:20 in:
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You can pivot off the middle and index together on wider rims like Brad talks about, I do it sometimes.
a 2 finger grip should be easier with smaller hands over anything. I think you might be misunderstanding what is being taught. The idea is a very small pinch point and really doesn't matter the size of your hand at all most any grown person has hands big enough to grip a 20mm disc just fine.
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I moved back to the 2 finger grip from a suggestion by SW. But I didn't understand the importance of the "very small pinch point" until just two days ago. Before I had a very good pinch with the whole thumb pad and the Climo fork hold, good enough that the disc didn't pivot. Then I moved my thumb pressure to just pushing down with only the first half of the thumb with the knuckle sitting up. Now I'm getting to where I'm averaging about 280'-290' with the one step. A good improvement for me.
In my head I'm thinking, I just need a pivot point, like a rod that goes through the flight plate, but that the pivot point still needs to have the "the snot squeezed out of it".
mm1315
Par Member
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So I have to much contact with the disc then at release? I understand the while pivot point idea and the last second acceleration/snap concepts, which I've incorporated into my throw. Though not entirely sure I'm getting all the snap I can, which could be from the way I was torquing it into my hand before throwing. I've loosened my grip until that last second throwing into blankets at home but have not had time to get out and really practice in the field do to weather. I'll experiment with different grips when I get the chance.
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Right, you essentially moved the fulcrum along the disc/lever to provide more leverage or mechanical advantage against the disc's weight.
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This is the way I visualize it. The grip on the left is using my thumb pad for pushing down. The grip on the right is using more of the thumb tip instead. With the thumb pad (left), the disc only gets about to the 3 o'clock position. As it is released, most of the disc is still behind the starting line (dowel) because there was no pivot. With using more of the thumb tip to push down (right) the disc is able to pivot. The disc gets to about 4 o'clock position and most of the disc is past the starting line because it was able to pivot. Because it was able to pivot it has a lot more kinetic energy as it is released.
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