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Understable discs needed if i can throw both ways?

^^^ It's like trying to paint with only 1 type of brush. Sure you can do it, but eventually you're going to have to work extra hard to get the same stroke. Why not just carry an extra brush or 2 and save yourself the headache?

Well said. :clap:
 
Also as noone has brought up surprisingly, I also love understable discs to keep my form honest. I'll always throw some understable discs in field work to make sure that I'm not trying to get extra distance by torquing a bit too much on the OS drivers. If you pick up the US disc in the middle of the stack and it flips over...you're doing something a little wrong and subconsciously messing with your release/angles/whatever.

Plus for all of the reasons mentioned I find them very useful on the course.
 
Also as noone has brought up surprisingly, I also love understable discs to keep my form honest. I'll always throw some understable discs in field work to make sure that I'm not trying to get extra distance by torquing a bit too much on the OS drivers. If you pick up the US disc in the middle of the stack and it flips over...you're doing something a little wrong and subconsciously messing with your release/angles/whatever.

Plus for all of the reasons mentioned I find them very useful on the course.

Mako. This disc is the definition of the honesty check. It should go straight if you're doing everything correct. Any anhyzer will translate into right turn.
 
I throw FH primarily but BH when the shot requires it and rarely do I use an US disc.

The only ones I have are a control driver for snakey BH shots in the woods and a tailwind bomber.

If you don't need a disc don't bring it.
 
Thanks man, I've got some credit at the local shop from a tournament payout that I've been sitting on... I'll try one of each of those.

They're both fairly unconventional feeling so it's good that you can check them out in person.

Mako. This disc is the definition of the honesty check. It should go straight if you're doing everything correct. Any anhyzer will translate into right turn.

That would be the Comet for me.
 
I bag an US putter and it's one of the things that I learned pretty recently. It's a Vibram Summit that I've had for over a year, and I'm not even a big fan of the disc: I just do not like Vibram rubber. It seems to lose it's grippy-ness very early and I have tried all the tricks, but it not just feels slick in the hand.

BUT- the flight the Summit is exactly what I want for a 40-100' touch shot right at the basket. At that distance it doesn't turn, it just goes dead straight at a very slow speed and then it drops. To throw the same shot with an Aviar or Anode, I'd have to put it on an annie and it's just a harder shot - as it's got more touch required.

Want to replace the summit with some thing similar w/ better feel.

Also give the Discraft APX a shot or the DGA equivalent in the Reef. I like Swans from Westside. Just a few more suggestions from someone you know who used to love Summits but no longer throws them.
 
Also give the Discraft APX a shot or the DGA equivalent in the Reef. I like Swans from Westside. Just a few more suggestions from someone you know who used to love Summits but no longer throws them.

Someone... I... know...

SCOTT LEADER! Hey man, I just put it together with some crack detective work (aka your pdga link).

I'll have to give them the "in the hand" test at phenix to see what fits nicely.
 
I really only forehand when I need that as a release point, otherwise I'll throw an anny.
Can't remember if I saw it mentioned or not, but one of the best things about going this route, vs FH is when you get the disc to start to flex back out before hitting. It usually doesn't skip or roll near as far, which is very beneficial on tight wooded holes.
 
that's another good point^ even the very understable discs still generally wont skip as much from a turn over due to how they spin and hit the ground.

 
A couple of points come to my mind in favor of having understable discs.

One point relates to spin, alluded to in the post above.

Let's say you throw RHBH and RHFH, and want the disc to turn to the right for a good portion of the throw at hand. On backhand, you could throw a strongly understable disc, somewhere between slight hyzer to slight anhyzer, and get the disc to follow your intended route. Or you could pick a neutral to mildly overstable disc and put it on a stronger anhyzer line to achieve a somewhat similar flight. in any case, the disc coming out of your backhand is going to be spinning clockwise, and when it lands, depending upon the slope of the ground and nature of the surface, that spin could be helpful or not. You could throw the same route using forehand, again choosing between understable-stable-overstable discs, and this time the disc is going to be spinning counter-clockwise, which will have different outcomes when it hits the ground compared to a disc spinning the other way.

Also, comparing a flight pattern turning to the right for most of the route on RHBD, to achieve that with an understable disc means throwing somewhere between a flat release to a very slight anny release (or slightly on hyzer if the disc is strongly overstable, like a Mamba for example), and at the end portion of the flight, the disc will fade out to the left some amount. And let's say you want that fade at the end. Throwing the same course using forehand though, means putting the disc on a flat~hyzer line, and at the end of the throw, the disc will continue to fade to the right.

An understable disc can readily give you an S-shaped flight pattern on backhand, just like an overstable disc thrown on an anny line will do the same on forehand. Sometimes an S-shaped flight pattern is just what the doctor ordered.

The other place for understable discs is when you have a tailwind. Headwind suits overstable discs.
 
I bag an US putter and it's one of the things that I learned pretty recently. It's a Vibram Summit that I've had for over a year, and I'm not even a big fan of the disc: I just do not like Vibram rubber. It seems to lose it's grippy-ness very early and I have tried all the tricks, but it not just feels slick in the hand.

BUT- the flight the Summit is exactly what I want for a 40-100' touch shot right at the basket. At that distance it doesn't turn, it just goes dead straight at a very slow speed and then it drops. To throw the same shot with an Aviar or Anode, I'd have to put it on an annie and it's just a harder shot - as it's got more touch required.

Want to replace the summit with some thing similar w/ better feel.

Innova XD's all day...beat one for long annys, hyzer-flips, and tailwind upshots. New one for more stability...complemented by my Judges for putting...great combo for me at least. :doh:
 
I've thrown RHBH and LHBH for about 6 years now and i still throw US plastic. Sometimes the fairway shape dictates i throw something that will flip anny and fade to a certain location...something a LHBH shot cannot do (i don't have a LHBH and frankly don't care to either). But sometimes you need a hard crashing shot going to the right, then the LHBH comes out because its easier to control...similar to the "why throw the big hyzer" thread thought process. My LHBH isn't as accurate as my RHBH but getting closer all the time. I switched early on in my ambidextrous adventure to more OS plastics but found like noted earlier in the forum that tight woods changed that thought process...I'll still throw lefty in the woods but its about highest % of making the shot (if competitive rounds) and RHBH may be safest choice coupled with the right disc.
 
Elevation also a key factor in throwing understable plastic
The thin air makes everything fly more stable so I use my beat bubble katana for straight hyzer flip drives up in the mtns when even just back in the valley the thing wld flip over and burn out.... this being roughly 6k feet vs 4900ish - kinda messes with your game living here where this issue is a factor...
 
I had the same line of thought for a while, but I realized the flights are way different. Next time your in a field throw a good forehand disc, and watch it's fade, and then turn over a backhand shot. It's a little different. The backhand turnover will go out a little straighter, and turns to the right throughout the flight. Whereas the forehand just goes straight. And then fades right. I bag both, and throw both, if it's a right dog leg, I throw forehand. If it's a longer shot, with an open fairway that turns right I throw backhand, you slowly learn which shot to us in which scenario, but there's definitely a place for both.
 
I had the same line of thought for a while, but I realized the flights are way different. Next time your in a field throw a good forehand disc, and watch it's fade, and then turn over a backhand shot. It's a little different. The backhand turnover will go out a little straighter, and turns to the right throughout the flight. Whereas the forehand just goes straight. And then fades right. I bag both, and throw both, if it's a right dog leg, I throw forehand. If it's a longer shot, with an open fairway that turns right I throw backhand, you slowly learn which shot to us in which scenario, but there's definitely a place for both.

Agreed, you can achieve different flight paths and results. I just use a LHBH instead of RHFH to make the dogleg type shot. I've got two holes at my local course that play to this example perfectly. One hole is better to throw an US disc and give it a long turning anhyzer...where it doesn't fade into the jungle of brush. But the other hole has OB straight past the dogleg and is more risky to pull off the turn unless you have a sky anny shot (which i don't yet). All depends on wind strength and direction for me really.
 

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