Yeah, you'd have to drop that down to maybe 8' for real life. IF its not windy!
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Disc Golf Valley
- Thread starter spinachd
- Start date
Here's the rating update. I also thought it was funny that I was 666th place!
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RUSSELL
* Ace Member *
when the hell do you get a distance driver?
I got a new phone last month and created a new player for it so my son and I can play together. Got my recoil on level 16, 1st ballista on level 27.
There is some randomness to it, but from what others have said, it is teens and 20s for these 2. The first ballista really didn't help me much over the recoil. Maybe a few holes it gives me a better look at eagle. 95% of the holes you don't need a ballista for anyway, if that helps. Owlwood is a different story though (for me). I use a ballista on 6 of those holes as memory serves. Distance is your friend on that course!
Suggestion--don't worry about your rating for now. Doesn't help you get the drivers any faster. Just get through multi-rounds as fast as possible. 112 for 4th vs 150 for 1st isn't a huge difference. While u r waiting for the good plastic, get REAL good on your putting and throw-ins. Honestly, I am at the point where anything under 100' I miss I feel like I missed a putt. I'm not as good as the top players from that distance, but it does shave a lot of strokes if you get comfy from 50-75' at least. The accurate wind break fuse is my preference, others may differ but I have gotten real comfortable with this disc.
What's notable (and sick IMHO) is that averaging better than -9 per course STILL doesn't even get you in the top 10% of players on the pro tour. Best I have ever done in a pro tour round is -13, and that is about what the top players are averaging these days! I think my best 4 rounds is -36, I always seem to have that one mulligan round.
Yeah, I keep laying eggs in Pro Tour rounds too, but fortunately for ratings I've been doing better in rounds 3 and 4. I managed to finish on the leaderboard just once, I think.
I think in general there continue to be more and more players that can get top scores. When I first got to the "pro" division, I think there were only 1100 to 1200 players in my first Pro Tour (a few months ago). Now there are at least 6400 players who have a rating over 850 to make "pro." I think it reflects on the game's increasing popularity.
Yeah, somewhere in the teens I got a Recoil, and then early 20s a Ballista. But any "glide" Recoil is almost as good as a Ballista.
By the way, learning to use a Musket (Accurate/wind and Accurate/glide are both awesome) is probably just as important as learning the drivers. I had a friend who was consistently shooting 9 under, and 3-starred everything but Grizzly Gulch (and Owlwood) before ever seeing a Recoil. Learning to be consistent from short range is key.
beereakfast
Eagle Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2009
- Messages
- 646
Señor guru!
Are you saying you don't use a putter?
I used an accurate/ glide pure for the longest time. But with the newest update, it's rediculously bad at the 70 to 130 foot shots, that used to be money. Curious....
etdefender19
Eagle Member
I putt with the Fuse. Actually use it for just about everything 250 and in
beereakfast
Eagle Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2009
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- 646
I have tried it, with mixed results. Goes straighter than i'm used to. Dialing in the range is a trick. Just need more practice!
etdefender19
Eagle Member
Call me crazy, but that's a good thing and the primary reason all of the top players abandoned the Pure
I am the oddball who uses an Accurate/Extra Glide Fuse instead of the Wind Break/Accurate Fuse though
For me, it's what I was using for a lot of throw-ins and ace runs before "dropping the Pure" was a thing so I just kept with that
Putting inside of 50': almost automatic, only adjust for strong crosswinds
50-60': The only distance I don't like with it...throw-ins are a bit dicey, particularly in the wind and it is sometimes too long (even with adjusting aim) for the putting mechanic.
60-150': with a 1 wind...it's going in virtually every time and I'm furious if I miss. Other winds, still a high percentage
150-250': still incredibly reliable...make a pretty high rate of those also. 235-240' is about the extent of its range (to have a chance of going in) on flat ground.
Ace runs: 1,3, and 4 on Sunshine, the blueberry ace hole, the harrowing ace hole, Hole 1 on GG, island green with a tailwind, the island par 3 on Windswept with a neutral or tailwind, the lakeside flick around the mando to the elevated basket, probably a couple others with the right wind
If you're pulling straight back, aim a little left. If you aim directly at your target, give it a touch of hyzer (because I often get confused with hyzer/anhyzer - I mean pull back slightly right of center)
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I think I might try switching to the Acc/Glide Fuse en lieu of the Acc/Wind. There are about three holes that I can't quite reach without the extra glide, and I don't like trying to ace run them with my Explorer because that introduces the chance of going OB if narrowly missing the ace and going long.
rocthecourse
* Ace Member *
I'm not that good but one of my little tricks when using the Fuse on longer shots is I line up the shot THEN slide over to the left. That slide to the left is often enough to let me throw a straight shot that slightly turns to the right and hit the basket.
Your results may vary, but it is something to try.
Your results may vary, but it is something to try.
At level 24, finally got a 1000+ round after many close ones.
Have been using the acc/glide Pure. Looks like I'll have to learn the Fuse. The ones I have definitely need some hyzer to end up straight. Or the slide to the left after lining it up.
Waiting on a Ballista. Glide/skip Recoil has been working fine but some holes it shows its limitations.
Have been using the acc/glide Pure. Looks like I'll have to learn the Fuse. The ones I have definitely need some hyzer to end up straight. Or the slide to the left after lining it up.
Waiting on a Ballista. Glide/skip Recoil has been working fine but some holes it shows its limitations.
beereakfast
Eagle Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2009
- Messages
- 646
If you're pulling straight back, aim a little left. If you aim directly at your target, give it a touch of hyzer (because I often get confused with hyzer/anhyzer - I mean pull back slightly right of center)[/QUOTE]
The accurate/extra glide fuse is really the only good one i have, and have been using. Seems to work ok. I had little confidence on putts over 40' with the pure. Hit 45 footers with the fuse, but i really doubt the putting algorythm allows any farther shots without an elevation difference. The throw in's seem more reliable. The 50 to 120 range is more like the pure was about 1 to 2 updates ago. But i don't have to annie it. As always, there is a learning curve. Not really adavancing my pro tour score yet, but there is some light! I have hit 1000 rounds on multi, but am only at 868 on the pro. Lol! All in good fun!
Thank you!
The accurate/extra glide fuse is really the only good one i have, and have been using. Seems to work ok. I had little confidence on putts over 40' with the pure. Hit 45 footers with the fuse, but i really doubt the putting algorythm allows any farther shots without an elevation difference. The throw in's seem more reliable. The 50 to 120 range is more like the pure was about 1 to 2 updates ago. But i don't have to annie it. As always, there is a learning curve. Not really adavancing my pro tour score yet, but there is some light! I have hit 1000 rounds on multi, but am only at 868 on the pro. Lol! All in good fun!
Thank you!
It ENTIRELY depends on the wind conditions and the elevation change. I base my shot on the practice putting section of the game where I use the dead center of the chains with the bottom point on the reticle using enough power to hit chains below where I aimed, but the rest of the time? There are no 0 conditions. So, for example, a 1hw uphill? I'm going to want to elevate the reticle a bit for the uphill, but also lower a bit for the hw. I might even account for the hw slightly more, and drop it a tiny bit.
I've noted that the winds tend to play with the disc in different ways. A tailwind is going to take a disc and stretch out its flight path without really elevating it. A headwind is going to lift and shorten the shot. So for a tailwind I maintain my aim point, but throw it with slightly less power. For a headwind I lower my aiming point and throw with more power. A 3 HW I aim the bottom of the reticle at the bottom of the basket (assuming flat ground) and would throw a 20m/65ft shot at the power I'd throw a neutral 25m/80ft shot in practice putting conditions.
Crosswinds play a big role in the angle of the shots. I am almost always going to adjust to the right in a R>L cross, and aim an anhyzer shot a bit more into that wind. With a L>R cross I'm always going to play a slight hyzer and add a bit more power (barely!) because the hyzer doesn't spend as much time at its peak elevation. The annys also are huge for the uphills - I'll almost always play the uphill with a slight anny so that the extra glide lets me avoid powering up too much and running past it trying to get up the hill.
Same principles apply out to really 60m for me. I've got pretty regular hitting the Sunshine shorties. Similar ideas but more variability beyond that with the drivers...
I treat 1 winds as zero winds. The only time it messes me up is on sunshine ace runs with a non-WindBreak disc. Even with the same disc, I don't think it affects throws or putts much. Or maybe it just means I'm not accurate enough to tell the difference? But things have worked out for me pretty well.
As an aside, I don't think it's a linear increase with each wind level. 4 to 5, for example, seems to affect the disc more than 3 to 4. At least in my experience...
I think a 1 left to right is different enough from a 1 right to left to make a difference in flight.
First -16 for me.
the_lung
Eagle Member
That's a great question!
Did you know that we have a Disc Golf Valley Player's Page on Facebook?
You should ask this question there. :thmbup:
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