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Makes sense... I'll avoid mixing the two. I might have to learn more about finishing someday, but I have such good success with the basic wipe-on poly that I haven't taken the jump. Even if it doesn't cure right, a few wipes with mineral spirits and it's good to go. Thanks for the advice on...
Thanks for the encouragement. A few folks have messaged me, though none have bitten on the offer yet (the price is kind of a lot to swallow when discs are normally so cheap). That's okay, though... this isn't my day job, and I prefer working on my own projects in my free time. I'm almost done...
Yeah, the oil in padauk has a very distinctive smell, especially when heated up through friction on the lathe or other woodworking tools. I kind of like the scent, though I'm not sure how healthy it is (the smell even permeates my fancy dust respirator).
Yep, that was me too. It's fun making these things and seeing if they can fly. The 98 gram walnut wraith I made can actually glide ridiculous distances when there is no wind and the throw is perfect.
Thanks. I love seeing how things are made, especially when it relates to any of my hobbies. I've been thinking about making wooden bicycle frames, too, since I do a fair bit of cycling. I made a wooden computer case once, and plan on doing more in the future.
I was thinking a dewaxed amber shellac, like this pre-mixed variant, might be a good base before trying the wipe-on poly, but if it does curdle up like you say it might not be a great option. Or just straight BLO or tung oil would make the disc look good, but the strength of urethane finishes...
Yeah, I doubt I'll ever sell more than like 3 of these, so I'm not exactly a great competitor to Innova lol. The curvature of the discs I make is sort of roughly based around the original disc, but they are all unique and can fly completely different lines.
Yeah, I've finished padauk a few times and this problem sometimes rears its ugly head. A sealer coat is a good idea. Can polyurethane actually cure on a lacquer base coat? I was wondering about a shellac sealer as a possibility, too.
I have noticed the staining ability of the padauk dust...
I have my brands (from custom-made branding irons) on the bottom of the disc. I've considered laser etching or toner transfer or stenciling for the tops of the discs, but I really like the bare wood so I haven't done it yet.
Hello disc golf comrades. Here is another wooden disc I finished last week, a copy of a champion orc:
http://imgur.com/a/JUSC8
It was commissioned by a fellow disc golfer on reddit.com. I made it from African Padauk, recycled from an old table I purchased off craigslist, and finished it with...
Sadly, I managed to shatter the disc yesterday when it hit a tractor mid-flight (some construction was going on in the middle of the field). At least it died how it lived. So lesson learned... don't hit tractors with wooden discs. I already make another one out of walnut for my coworker (a...
It seemed to have about the same friction as the plastic discs, though the extra thickness made gripping it feel a little awkward. I'll have to try for a thinner disc next time.
Poly is slightly stronger, but once scratched it can't really be repaired. Oils soak into the wood and can be reapplied easily. After my dinging and scratching it up yesterday, some light sanding and re-oiling made it look new again.
Good to meet you Martin. Lathe disc making is pretty fun, for sure. Your minis are pretty sweet, too. I have good-sized pieces of mahogany, soft spalted maple, and walnut ready for disc making. I was also thinking of laminating up some smaller pieces. Lots of possibilities.
I just did some good test flights with it. It seems to fly nearly the same as the original beast. The turn is slightly more sluggish, but the fade is the same. I can get both of them the same distance without any problem. It does seem to keep any wobble from the throw throughout the flight...
They make duplicating lathes and attachments, but hell if I can afford one. I kind of like it having the hand-made feel to it, anyways, even if I get a few duds (the first one seems successful so far).
Oh, if the trophies listed on the site given earlier don't have a back, it explains the price. Just making a rounded disc is pretty easy. Getting the shape to match an actual disc and making sure the rim and hollowing are the right dimensions, etc, is pretty hard.
I'm assuming the flight plate is the thin region in the center (everything but the rim)? Though I don't have proper measuring equipment for it, by feel I'd say it's about 1/8" thick, where the original is less than 1/16." I left it a little extra thick on purpose, as wood gets pretty frail as...