Carpet Tees

[EricW]

everyone seems to be using spikes... has anyone tried spiral anchors? I think that would hold better even against 50 mph winds... just a thought

edit: just checked some out... things are pricey... thinking that the spikes are a better bet for the price point

We bought bulk 50LB box of 10" Spiral Landscape Spikes from BIC Warehouse $75 (listed as 190 spikes). Delivery was about $20 bucks, took a week after order.
http://www.bicwarehouse.com/Hot-Dipped-Galvanized-Spiral-Landscape-Spike-50LB/dp/B000LNY23M

Way better than the $1-2 each if you buy piece-wise. Sold in 8", 10", 12"; all 50LB box (qty varies depending length). Forgot what size washer used (3/8" fender washer??).

 

[DagG]

Two projects I've worked with used commercial grade carpeting fixed with landscape staples. We only fix the rear two-thirds of the pad with the staples, leaving the front third loose to stretch without bunching when a player plants. These have served well until we could upgrade to hard surface tees, in excess of two years in some cases.

 

[mullethead326]

Make sure you don't just spread your baselayer (crusher, sand, etc), but tamp it as well. This will make it far easier to get the carpet leveled, and keep it leveled without hotspots from pivoting or runups.

 

[DavidSauls]

Two projects I've worked with used commercial grade carpeting fixed with landscape staples. We only fix the rear two-thirds of the pad with the staples, leaving the front third loose to stretch without bunching when a player plants. These have served well until we could upgrade to hard surface tees, in excess of two years in some cases.

In our experience, most of the carpet tees actually work fine with just 2 spikes in the rear corners. For exactly the reasons you say. The main reason we've staked them on front is to keep wind from getting under them (and that's on open holes, not wooded ones).

 

[riltim]

Any thoughts on these? Thinking of cheaply touching up some of our existing natural tees that turn to mud pits.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...rtificial-Grass-Rug-T85-9000-6X8-BM/202274592

 

[InnocentCrook]

8' is pretty short. If you had some extra space behind the tee for a longer run up it might serve the purpose. I would be curious to see how they hold up to the planting and twisting that occurs during a throw.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

its truly junk.

You can get carpet for free. Craigslist definitely and any contractor will give it away old stuff going to the dump.

 

[DavidSauls]

its truly junk.

You can get carpet for free. Craigslist definitely and any contractor will give it away old stuff going to the dump.

We set up a deal once with a contractor to pay $10 for any 5' x 12' he could give us. Great deal, since they came pre-cut to our preferred size.

One limitation of used/scrap carpet, if you want 12' tees, is that there are too many rooms that are smaller than that, so a lot of the pieces aren't quite big enough. (If you're happy with 10' tees, almost all of them will work).

 

[riltim]

its truly junk.

You can get carpet for free. Craigslist definitely and any contractor will give it away old stuff going to the dump.

Are the slick, don't last, or both?

8' is pretty short.

I think 8' will work on a wooded 250' hole.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

its more for decoration. There are some heavy grades of it but the cost is much higher like what you see on golf course driving ranges with the sold rubber base. That stuff pictured is to cover up dirt at a campsite. It works great for low-traffic purposes.

 

[riltim]

its more for decoration. There are some heavy grades of it but the cost is much higher like what you see on golf course driving ranges with the sold rubber base. That stuff pictured is to cover up dirt at a campsite. It works great for low-traffic purposes.

Gotcha, thanks. It says it's a 1/4" thick so I thought it might be at least a little robust. I guess I'll have to hunt down remnants.

 

[hawk12]

I actually install our carpets a bit differently... I dig a shallow trench in the front and back of the tee area, put the carpet in the trench & set a 4-6" log down on top of the carpet in the trench, back fill it with sand 9I too have plenty and its free).

This method locks down the entire front width of the carpet, and properly backfilled it is level with surrounding ground, so no ankle rolls or such. Do the same in the back, but kicking the carpet tight from front to back really gets a nice tight grip that is working very well.

We have had some in the ground for nearly two years, and they work well. I do prefer to use the shorter commercial grade carpet over longer household carpet, as it has ample grip and doesn't seem to want to trip players...

 

[Deuces]

After reading through this and other threads about installing carpet tees I have a couple of questions. Looks like the best way to go about it for us based upon the advice I've seen here is:

1.)Pull up old tee material
2.)Level the ground
3.)Crush n run or sand for filler
4.)Tamp down filler and relevel
5.)Lay down carpet right side up(Olefin preferred ,found in cheap berbers)
6.)Secure with 8" nails and 1 1/4" washers



My questions are:

How thick for the layer of sand or crush n run?
Is a layer of plastic beneficial to stop weeds n such from growing?
What's the best carpet size? 4X8, 5X10,or 5X12? I'm leaning towards 5X10.
Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks.

 

[DavidSauls]

One variable might be the type of soil you already have---and how much usage you expect them to get. Our carpet tees are on very hard clay, with no filler, and some can go years without having to be re-leveled. But ours also get light usage.

We haven't tried the plastic. We use herbicide instead. Plastic is probably a good idea, unless it creates a slick spot that the carpet can slide on, even a little.

As with all tees, size is debatable. My preference is for all tees to be 12' long---anything less, even on a short/wooded hole, seems inadequate. To me, anyway. Scrap carpet is cheap or free, so in most cases it's hardly any more work, or expense, to go with a full 12'.