djjeremiahj
Double Eagle Member
I can give some advice on discs methodology....
1) Understand Seasoning (Breaking IN) of the Discs:
ALL DISCS START OUT MOVE OVERSTABLE THAN RATED; the question is how fast and how long will it take to reach the true flight characteristics of the disc. Conceptually, if disc seasoning were rated on a 1-10 scale, i like my discs in the 7 range (Basically a tad stiffer than "true"). My game is based around a machine like concept where i am the machine, i throw the exact same way every time but replace the disc to achieve the different results; i do minor "calibrations" as necessary, but i dont do massive adjustments. (*The world isnt perfect, but this is what the foundation of my game is based on.) For me, i want my discs to be "seasoned" to the right amount so that i can get the same throw every time; when a disc gets beaten in too much, i replace it rather than adjust my throwing techniques (See below).
* For the sake of argument let's call a "perfect disc" a 6.5-7.0 on the "seasoning scale".
2) Weight Does Matter (Kinda):
Each player is different, but "dialing in" a weight that does match you is very important. Too heavy will give you precision but cut distance. Too Light will give you distance, sacrifice control and reveal OAT issues. Just right is what GoldiLocks always wanted when she looted the 3 Bears Bags.
In terms of the "seasoning scale" heavier (then your normal weight) discs tend to make a disc more overstable and act less seasoned than it is. (A 7 might "act" like a 9) - A lighter disc would make a disc more understable and act MORE seasoned than it is. (A 7 might "act" like a 5)
* Having said that, there are uses for heavier and lighter discs. But in general, once you've dialed in your weight and are good enough to know why you want something different try to stay there. For me, i like my approach discs lighter than my drivers as i need the extra help in distance as my name isnt Barry Bonds and i am not sponsored by Balco. <- Go Giants!
3) Understanding Plastic Variances:
I cant speak for anything other than innova, but i can explain how it works for them..... In general a disc of a specific design, when thrown properly will fly exactly the same. The differences we all get frustrated about are where the disc (and plastic type) land on the "seasoning scale" and affect flight. While all discs of a particular mold are designed (and should) fly as they are expected each plastic variation has nuances and (in essence) start on the "seasoning scale" at different points.
Star: Starts out very stiff and overstable. 10/10. Breaks in slow and steady.
Champion: Starts out stiff and overstable. (9.5/10) Breaks in quickly and stays on a plateau for a long while before a quick plunge into the world of flippy.
Pro: Starts off less stiff and close to the target (7.5/10) Breaks in rapidly.
* This plastic is great if you are looking to quickly replace a "seasoned" disc as the two above plastics take a while to break in.
DX: Start off stiff, but breaks into the "sweet spot" very quickly. (8/10)
- Some guys get used to their "tight" Valk (7.5/10), lose it and hope to find a replacement. They go buy a Pro that starts almost exactly where their other one left off, but they buy it too light thus making it 1 point less (6.5/10)... <- In relation to their old one. "It's too flippy"....
or
For whatever reason, their Valk is a year old (meaning it was produced sometime between 8-24 months ago) and the manufacturing is different this time. "It's a different disc"... <- when you have to make molds, buy plastics and other manufacturing variances, it's no wonder that "the same disc" 24 months ago is different than today's.
4) Specialty Discs (and specific plastics) DO make a difference (sometimes):
The extra tweaking of a CFR or getting the "right plastic" can make enough of a difference to be the difference maker. DG is a game of precision, so finding the disc that's a tad bit more overstable, glides a touch farther, etc can mean a lot if you are playing competitively.
I have experimented with a lot of discs and i can tell you that i have dialed in my discs enough to know exactly what plastic i need each in (and why the others dont work as well for me; usually a seasoning or stability issue).
5) Know when to say when:
Most people dont realize, but one overseasoned (beaten up) disc can affect an entire round and cascade tragically across your score. (example: The Katana you used to flip out, ride the line and come back now just flips out and goes forever. Killing your score. Instead of buying a new one, you've decided to try to compensate by adjusting your wrist and throwing habits. Killing your score. <- Wouldnt it have been better just to replace it?)
I go to a field every week (or so) and throw my discs just to see if they fly "Right" (as expected). This also helps me "calibrate" as i learn that they may be flipper than i expect, or that some still may be too new. When it's time to say when, i dont hesitate, i go buy it's replacement or i realize it's starting to go, and buy its replacement and start breaking it in. Realize that your disc is reaching the 5 (on seasoning scale) and that it's too broken in to suit your needs (if a "5" is too seasoned for you).
6) Realize your own Throwing Technique and buy discs accordingly:
We all arent perfect machines. We should all go to a field and eliminate OAT issues. Some throw with a natural hyzer, some throw with natural anhyzer, etc.... Realize this and find discs that fit your throwing style. (Example: Some guys really like the Sidewinder as the Roadrunner is too flippy, some guys like the BEast as the sidewinder is too flippy; some guys have power and use their valkarie like a sidewinder, etc. - Same overall use, different discs thrown by different guys). Realize your own limiations, what you need out of a disc and where it needs to be in relation to the "seasoning scale". Dont try to force a disc to do something that it (or you as the thrower) cant. Trying to make a Firebird "flip" and be understable or making a Sidewinder a "wind fighter" isnt going to happen. Accept the limitations of the disc and buy accordingly.
7) Speed / Power / Arm Strength:
Every disc has a target speed it must reach (and maintain) to achieve it's flight characteristics. The most common misnomer is that arm strength and power is what controls this; it's actually disc speed. (Speed is a function of power and one's arm strength, but its not a "2 way street". Power is not a function of speed.)
Understand your own abilities and adjust the disc purchases accordingly. This is the quintessential argument about noobs throwing super fast discs. I heard one Pro say it best -" Most guys cant throw the top rated discs fast enough to get them to do what they are supposed to do, it's funny but this actually HURTS their game. They would be better taking a slower disc and maxing it's potential than taking a super fast disc and hoping to get good results." Most new cats would be surprised to find, that if they just throw their slower discs (for example: valk vs boss) they will get 95% of the distance but 100% more accuracy. (The disc lands exactly where you intended on the fairway instead of skipping off into the bushes).
*As a cheating method, this affect can be countered by buying lighter discs, but in general discs above speed 10 require (atleast) 325' of throwing power and longer as the speed rating raises.
8) Realize Discs Change Their Flight Characteristics with Seasoning (Kinda):
As a disc seasons, it gets more understable. Realize where your discs is at and what it's CURRENT flight characteristics and limitations are. (Example: A new Sidewinder is like a Valk, as it seasons it turns into a Roadrunner. A new Teebird starts straight like a TL, but breaks down into a flippy sidewinder-esque disc. <- Not bad as this can add distance, but the realization that it has wind and turnover issues makes a huge difference.)
Sorry, no school or work today and i am bored...... I hope my words help some understand discs and reveal some of the (seemingly) mysterious secrets of DG and discs.
1) Understand Seasoning (Breaking IN) of the Discs:
ALL DISCS START OUT MOVE OVERSTABLE THAN RATED; the question is how fast and how long will it take to reach the true flight characteristics of the disc. Conceptually, if disc seasoning were rated on a 1-10 scale, i like my discs in the 7 range (Basically a tad stiffer than "true"). My game is based around a machine like concept where i am the machine, i throw the exact same way every time but replace the disc to achieve the different results; i do minor "calibrations" as necessary, but i dont do massive adjustments. (*The world isnt perfect, but this is what the foundation of my game is based on.) For me, i want my discs to be "seasoned" to the right amount so that i can get the same throw every time; when a disc gets beaten in too much, i replace it rather than adjust my throwing techniques (See below).
* For the sake of argument let's call a "perfect disc" a 6.5-7.0 on the "seasoning scale".
2) Weight Does Matter (Kinda):
Each player is different, but "dialing in" a weight that does match you is very important. Too heavy will give you precision but cut distance. Too Light will give you distance, sacrifice control and reveal OAT issues. Just right is what GoldiLocks always wanted when she looted the 3 Bears Bags.
In terms of the "seasoning scale" heavier (then your normal weight) discs tend to make a disc more overstable and act less seasoned than it is. (A 7 might "act" like a 9) - A lighter disc would make a disc more understable and act MORE seasoned than it is. (A 7 might "act" like a 5)
* Having said that, there are uses for heavier and lighter discs. But in general, once you've dialed in your weight and are good enough to know why you want something different try to stay there. For me, i like my approach discs lighter than my drivers as i need the extra help in distance as my name isnt Barry Bonds and i am not sponsored by Balco. <- Go Giants!
3) Understanding Plastic Variances:
I cant speak for anything other than innova, but i can explain how it works for them..... In general a disc of a specific design, when thrown properly will fly exactly the same. The differences we all get frustrated about are where the disc (and plastic type) land on the "seasoning scale" and affect flight. While all discs of a particular mold are designed (and should) fly as they are expected each plastic variation has nuances and (in essence) start on the "seasoning scale" at different points.
Star: Starts out very stiff and overstable. 10/10. Breaks in slow and steady.
Champion: Starts out stiff and overstable. (9.5/10) Breaks in quickly and stays on a plateau for a long while before a quick plunge into the world of flippy.
Pro: Starts off less stiff and close to the target (7.5/10) Breaks in rapidly.
* This plastic is great if you are looking to quickly replace a "seasoned" disc as the two above plastics take a while to break in.
DX: Start off stiff, but breaks into the "sweet spot" very quickly. (8/10)
- Some guys get used to their "tight" Valk (7.5/10), lose it and hope to find a replacement. They go buy a Pro that starts almost exactly where their other one left off, but they buy it too light thus making it 1 point less (6.5/10)... <- In relation to their old one. "It's too flippy"....
or
For whatever reason, their Valk is a year old (meaning it was produced sometime between 8-24 months ago) and the manufacturing is different this time. "It's a different disc"... <- when you have to make molds, buy plastics and other manufacturing variances, it's no wonder that "the same disc" 24 months ago is different than today's.
4) Specialty Discs (and specific plastics) DO make a difference (sometimes):
The extra tweaking of a CFR or getting the "right plastic" can make enough of a difference to be the difference maker. DG is a game of precision, so finding the disc that's a tad bit more overstable, glides a touch farther, etc can mean a lot if you are playing competitively.
I have experimented with a lot of discs and i can tell you that i have dialed in my discs enough to know exactly what plastic i need each in (and why the others dont work as well for me; usually a seasoning or stability issue).
5) Know when to say when:
Most people dont realize, but one overseasoned (beaten up) disc can affect an entire round and cascade tragically across your score. (example: The Katana you used to flip out, ride the line and come back now just flips out and goes forever. Killing your score. Instead of buying a new one, you've decided to try to compensate by adjusting your wrist and throwing habits. Killing your score. <- Wouldnt it have been better just to replace it?)
I go to a field every week (or so) and throw my discs just to see if they fly "Right" (as expected). This also helps me "calibrate" as i learn that they may be flipper than i expect, or that some still may be too new. When it's time to say when, i dont hesitate, i go buy it's replacement or i realize it's starting to go, and buy its replacement and start breaking it in. Realize that your disc is reaching the 5 (on seasoning scale) and that it's too broken in to suit your needs (if a "5" is too seasoned for you).
6) Realize your own Throwing Technique and buy discs accordingly:
We all arent perfect machines. We should all go to a field and eliminate OAT issues. Some throw with a natural hyzer, some throw with natural anhyzer, etc.... Realize this and find discs that fit your throwing style. (Example: Some guys really like the Sidewinder as the Roadrunner is too flippy, some guys like the BEast as the sidewinder is too flippy; some guys have power and use their valkarie like a sidewinder, etc. - Same overall use, different discs thrown by different guys). Realize your own limiations, what you need out of a disc and where it needs to be in relation to the "seasoning scale". Dont try to force a disc to do something that it (or you as the thrower) cant. Trying to make a Firebird "flip" and be understable or making a Sidewinder a "wind fighter" isnt going to happen. Accept the limitations of the disc and buy accordingly.
7) Speed / Power / Arm Strength:
Every disc has a target speed it must reach (and maintain) to achieve it's flight characteristics. The most common misnomer is that arm strength and power is what controls this; it's actually disc speed. (Speed is a function of power and one's arm strength, but its not a "2 way street". Power is not a function of speed.)
Understand your own abilities and adjust the disc purchases accordingly. This is the quintessential argument about noobs throwing super fast discs. I heard one Pro say it best -" Most guys cant throw the top rated discs fast enough to get them to do what they are supposed to do, it's funny but this actually HURTS their game. They would be better taking a slower disc and maxing it's potential than taking a super fast disc and hoping to get good results." Most new cats would be surprised to find, that if they just throw their slower discs (for example: valk vs boss) they will get 95% of the distance but 100% more accuracy. (The disc lands exactly where you intended on the fairway instead of skipping off into the bushes).
*As a cheating method, this affect can be countered by buying lighter discs, but in general discs above speed 10 require (atleast) 325' of throwing power and longer as the speed rating raises.
8) Realize Discs Change Their Flight Characteristics with Seasoning (Kinda):
As a disc seasons, it gets more understable. Realize where your discs is at and what it's CURRENT flight characteristics and limitations are. (Example: A new Sidewinder is like a Valk, as it seasons it turns into a Roadrunner. A new Teebird starts straight like a TL, but breaks down into a flippy sidewinder-esque disc. <- Not bad as this can add distance, but the realization that it has wind and turnover issues makes a huge difference.)
Sorry, no school or work today and i am bored...... I hope my words help some understand discs and reveal some of the (seemingly) mysterious secrets of DG and discs.
