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Driving practice: TBirds or Valks?

Just to clarify - a hyzer flip starts out as a hyzer, then becomes unstable, wobbles and flips to annie, right? I have a 150 leopard DX, and this is usually what happens when I throw it. Does this mean there's too much OAT going on, too much speed for the disc, or what?

Also, when I drive my putters with (what I aim for as) a flat release, they ever so slightly annie for half the drive, then level out, then hyzer fade at the very end. Is this a prognosis?

A hyzer flip doesn't have to wobble to turn over and go right. If the disc is wobbling, then there is some OAT in the throw that will make it do that, but that isn't the best way to make a disc turn over. A DX Leo will naturally turn some, and it depends on how much hyzer you give it as to whether it will go to the right or not.

What putters are you throwing? A lot of putters can be thrown flat and go really straight before fading.

Also, hyzer and anhyzer (or annie, anny) are release angles. A disc doesn't "go annie," it turns over from a flat or hyzer release. The same thing is that a disc doesn't "hyzer out," it fades. At least, that is the general consensus around here. ;)
 
Those putters should be fine for driving straight as long as they are not really beat (idk about the 150 dx though, I have never thrown one). If they are going right, then check your form for OAT or your grip.
 
I went from a 150 dx leopard to a 165 pro leopard and I would say it has 2-3x the lifespan of the dx. My course has a lot of trees so dx just doesn't do it. Pro seems to be more resilient. It stills dings up but way less severe gashes compared to dx
 
Ditto Jongoff09's answer on the hyzer flip.....it's just when you release a disc on a hyzer with enough power that it flips up to a flat flight. Whether or not it turns over or continues to travel straight and flat (with or without some fade at the end) depends on the combo of the particular disc, the angle of hyzer you release with, and the level of power you put into it. You said you're flipping your Leopards now, but I'm kinda guessing based on your first post that either your DX version is pretty beat in (causing it to turn over or flip more easily), or you really have some OAT. If it's wobbling, there's definitely OAT there so it'd be good to examine your form and your grip. One good indicator would be to throw your beat Leopard along with a new one to see if they're flying anywhere close to the same, with the same throw.

Pro plastic is definitely worth the extra couple bucks for durability. It'll still ding up in the trees, but in field practice and everywhere else, it'll outlast DX by a long shot. If you're going to pick up five of them, going all Pro would be a good idea and not terribly expensive, but if you want to throw in a Champ or Star for comparison, then you'll learn a little extra about discs (great way to do it, btw), and if you end up liking the Leopard you'll have one that will last a very long time without changing flight characteristics too quickly. As for weight, that's just kinda preference. After starting out with most 175+ discs, I found that I like 165-170 a little better for most molds. Going from a worn 150g Leopard to a heavier, new Leopard will be a noticeable change, but since you'll have several to throw repeatedly, it won't be a big deal really.
 
pro leopards are awesome. dx leos can get flippy pretty quickly. my pros are holding up really well.

for a noodle arm, champ leo for hyzers, pro for neutral shots, and dx for turnovers is a pretty good setup.
 
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