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Practicing to improve form: What are the best TYPE of discs?

This is a lot of blah blah.... just to say:

Comet,
Comet,
And another Comet.

Lower 170g for weight (theyve been kinda stable lately). I'm surprised noone else injected the stock DGCR answer yet. When you were saying what about glide, I thought you meant the Glide... 😄

And yes sheep that video is terrible, you're right! Maybe redo it without having a few drinks...
😄
 
Thanks again Sheep,

Then remind me not to rely on that for future disc shopping.
Reliable for "no glide"

So, when it says something like 1 or 3, or something.
It's probably accurate.
 
This is a lot of blah blah.... just to say:

Comet,
Comet,
And another Comet.

Lower 170g for weight (theyve been kinda stable lately). I'm surprised noone else injected the stock DGCR answer yet. When you were saying what about glide, I thought you meant the Glide... 😄

And yes sheep that video is terrible, you're right! Maybe redo it without having a few drinks...
😄
I don't remember drinking, but maybe i was?
 
I'll add a tidbit from my experiences. It's been referred to already. Years into playing, I did a lot of practice with neutral putters and rocs. Both forgive nose up and in fact don't fly well nose down in my experience.

As I improved with these slower slower discs, I found I had more nose-up issues with my faster discs. Then I started working with drivers and fairways. I improved the nose angle control, but then found I couldn't get my putters and rocs to go anywhere because I was throwing them with the nose down.

This made me realize that blunt edged discs need neutral or slightly nose-up while drivers need neutral to nose down. This is my experience with my swing/form, ymmv.

Summary of my experience: slow discs teach arm speed and control of off axis torque well. Nose angle control is dynamic across disc speed and has to be learned that way.
 
Not to harp on someone else's theme but, "flight numbers don't matter" (1) Numbers vary by manufacturer, plastic, and weight. Flight of discs vary even among the same manufacturer of the same disc of different plastics with the same numbers. Flights of the same disc of the same plastic of the same manufacturer can vary by the production run. There is no reliable way to know how a disc is going to fly for you. This leaves new players at a loss when buying discs. Hear-say is as reliable a method as flight numbers. There is a reason so many disc golfers have a Buzz or Buzz like disc. Watch the videos below as the same person tests 28 putters for distance and then straightness. Two different tests on 20+ midrange discs. When new to the sport I fell into the trap (from a starter set) of believing that you had to throw a driver from the tee box, when most of the holes I was playing at the time were shorter heavily wooded par 3's.

(1) Six sided discs on YouTube.
 
Update: Applied what I learned in this thread, videoing my first form-focused practice session. What came out of today's session,
  • 10mm, f5.6 on a cropped sensor DSLR, captures the full flight of reasonably straight throws, and those that go to the right. More importantly, it captures my mechanics.
  • The video player that I used for review, allows the action to slowed down to 1/5, and maybe 1/10 speed.
  • Looks like Skervoy was right about the disc speed: My TL3 did the worst, and they were the fastest discs (8).
  • Putters did the best, and the Ruru had the flight of the day; level & straight. (Not the best distance, but I'll take it.)
  • Best throw was way underpowered, compared to how I normally throw (hint, hint).
  • That same throw, also had me starting the throw, from way back.
  • Left foot was too far forward, on practically every throw.
  • Throwing putters & fairway discs the same way, doesn't cut it. The former might get a descent flight path, but the later dive into the ground.
  • 108 throws is too much.
It will take time to fully understand everything that the vids captured. But it's a start.
 


This is a terrible video I made that goes in line with honda guys comment.

Ultimates will really give you clean form if you use them right.

I like this.

One of the molds that I bag is an understable mid that is incredibly sensitive to wobble and any noticable amount will make it turn over and dump straight into the ground no matter what. On the other hand, a clean release will make it pop up to flat and just glide for days, it is incredibly satisfying to watch. In order to throw that disc properly I had to stop strong arming and focus on getting clean and snappy releases. Whenever I go out to throw and am able to launch these things properly I know that I'm using "proper" (in the sense of getting clean releases) form.
 
I like this.

One of the molds that I bag is an understable mid that is incredibly sensitive to wobble and any noticable amount will make it turn over and dump straight into the ground no matter what. On the other hand, a clean release will make it pop up to flat and just glide for days, it is incredibly satisfying to watch. In order to throw that disc properly I had to stop strong arming and focus on getting clean and snappy releases. Whenever I go out to throw and am able to launch these things properly I know that I'm using "proper" (in the sense of getting clean releases) form.
Those are the kind of discs that I suggest people throw to get good and clean throwing.

You'll get more from a good clean form than you ever will from trying to huck it to hard.
 
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