• Discover new ways to elevate your game with the updated DGCourseReview app!
    It's entirely free and enhanced with features shaped by user feedback to ensure your best experience on the course. (App Store or Google Play)

[Question] Flashing and stability

So...I usually deflash most of my disc's because they feel more comfortable in the hand. Tonight, I deflashed a DyeMax Hybrid Fugitive expecting it to be more understable. To my surprise, the 15 throws that I did have with it were on the overstable side of the spectrum. It seems to have gained stability compared to the way it was flying before. It now flies like a Roc3 in similar weight. So I ask, has anybody else ever gained stability after deflashing a disc?
 
So...I usually deflash most of my disc's because they feel more comfortable in the hand. Tonight, I deflashed a DyeMax Hybrid Fugitive expecting it to be more understable. To my surprise, the 15 throws that I did have with it were on the overstable side of the spectrum. It seems to have gained stability compared to the way it was flying before. It now flies like a Roc3 in similar weight. So I ask, has anybody else ever gained stability after deflashing a disc?

I recently removed the flashing from 3 saints and 4 rivers. They ALL are now less stable and fly further which is what I wanted:) Somebody mentioned additional drag slowing the disc down which I'm sure is true. In addition The PLH will be lower with the flashing removed which results in less stability.
 
It could be coming out of your hand cleaner thus being a better shot and more true to release.

That's a stretch but i have felt a few discs that had flash vs no flash and its a world of difference how it feels so who knows but maybe you are just throwing it cleaner too'

When you removed the flash did you scuff up the top a little too? If its staying in the bag for sure give it some love with steel wool or something to get the glossy sheen off the plastic.
 
When you removed the flash did you scuff up the top a little too? If its staying in the bag for sure give it some love with steel wool or something to get the glossy sheen off the plastic.

Interesting, what does this do? I'm assuming this makes premium plastic fly more like base plastic because of less air friction?
 
correct. If I KNOW a disc is staying in the bag its one of the first things ill do to a faster mold.

The best flying distance discs I have owned were all used and beat well under 8/10 condition. You cannot replace those kind of drivers easily and they fly more true to design/mold.

Obviously not something you do to your OS discs which you want to keep that way. More the "go-to" ones.
 
Last edited:
correct. If I KNOW a disc is staying in the bag its one of the first things ill do to a faster mold.

The best flying distance discs I have owned were all used and beat well under 8/10 condition. You cannot replace those kind of drivers easily and they fly more true to design/mold.

Obviously not something you do to your OS discs which you want to keep that way. More the "go-to" ones.

Good info and I understand the logic but I think I might have a mental block on scuffing up my shiny new toys. I guess flight characteristics are more important than shiny. Thanks for the info.
 
lol i know what you mean.. that's when you know your committed to a disc though! :p

I have only become MORE satisfied with ANY disc that i have purposely rubbed on a tee or worked over purposely. I have taken brand new discs to a course (that i bag but replaced b/c lost) and rub them on the tee first thing destroying the stamp and im good to tee off with it. Inside needs some rocks or sand but once its beat its ready to fly :D

Plus if its worth keeping around how long will it really stay nice looking anyways?!
 
Cannons are a great example. I had 3 which all were flashed and new (first time trying the discs out) and basically sold them off b/c i didn't like how they flew. Well i had one left after my fire sale and decided to work it a little on a tee then throw after no one was biting on the sale thread anyways i figured who cared about condition.

Needless to say, the disc is still in my bag and I've reacquired a few back-ups.
 
The discussion of scuffing up a disc this got me curious. I've always heard that base plastics are generally more understable, have more glide, and therefore a touch more distance but it never made much sense to me. I believed it because everyone said it was true and matched my experiences but I always wanted to understand why. In my head it just seemed like that slick disc would go faster than a rougher textured one. I did some research and found my explanations here: http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94736 . Great thread that helped me understand how this works.
 
I bought a few new discs last weekend that had really sharp flashing, so I used some sandpaper to remove it but am a little concerned that I may have gone too far with the 175g Lucid Renegade, which is now just a turning machine. Even when thrown with hyzer it turns over and doesn't fight back at all. I've never thrown a Renegade before, but this disc is flippier than the Opto Bolt I've had in my bag for months...I didn't throw the Renegade before I removed the flashing, so I don't know if I somehow screwed it up or whether it was flippy even with the flashing.

None of the other discs I removed the flashing from seem to have been negatively affected: 176g Opto Stryker, 175g Opto Trident, 176g (Fuzion? Biofuzion?) Trespass, 177g VIP Giant.

The Trespass has a really beautiful flex line when thrown at max power, something I didn't really get out of the 174g Fuzion Trespass I had been bagging.

The new Giant flies almost identically to it's 175g older brother that's been in my bag for a while now, the Trident is suitably beefy, etc. I suppose it's possible that I just jacked up the Renegade, but I thought I was being similarly careful with all of these...
 
The renegade can be a bit finicky, with and without flashing. I have a couple of dyemax's that fly similar to a pro wraith(and they have been deflashed). I have an early run lucid that I never removed the flash off of because it was uber understable when I got it.
 
I remove flashing if I find it uncomfortable, which I almost always do. However when I first started doing it with fine sandpaper I was really affecting the flight of the disc too drastically. I switched to a razor and had an even worse result the first time but now I have found the ability to use a razor to carefully remove all flashing without removing any of the disc itself. I think there are merits to both removing and not removing. I've also found gently scuffing the surfaces with fine sandpaper has a noticeable affect on stability.
 
I remove flashing if I find it uncomfortable, which I almost always do.

I've gone back and forth for the same reason...lately my index finger joint has gotten pretty torn up, to the point I have been using athletic tape to protect it. I decided to remove the flashing from these new discs because it seemed pretty sharp on all of them.

In the case of the Renegade this is the first time I felt like I may have actually altered the flight characteristics. SpikeHyzers comment about the mold has me wondering a bit, though... I may try grabbing another one as a players pack disc if I have the option in any of the upcoming DD tournaments I'm playing in and giving one another try.

I had tried the razor blade method once before but it seemed like it was going to take a long time, and I was having a hard time being very precise with this method (It was on an Opto Pure with a LOT of flashing...)

Wish they would just find a reliable way to remove this at the factory... seems like Prodigy is the only ones that do this, but I don't bag any of their plastic.
 
By noticeable effect on stability I assume you mean less stable after scuffing? Can you notice any difference in distance/glide?

Yes of course I mean less "overstable"/more "understable". Yes of course there is more glide (more aerodynamic/doesn't slow down as quickly) and hence more distance. This is why a very "fast" and "understable" discs glide the farthest in the air for any thrower if one can throw it with maximum speed and spin with hyzer on a high enough line so that it turns over for it entire flight and lands flat. This means the disc is as aerodynamic and gyroscopic as possible, has been thrown with hyzer to maximize the amount of time it has to glide, and it isn't slowing down prematurely (fading out) or landing prematurely (rolling).

"Overstable" to me means the disc wants to land/is less aerodynamic. "Understable" means the the disc wants to glide/is more aerodynamic. If you throw a really "overstable" disc with anhyzer it still just wants to find the ground quickly. If you throw a midrange that is more "understable" then a midrange that flies straight (when thrown flat) with some hyzer in a naive attempt to reduce it's potential to glide as far away as possible it will resist falling out of the sky and try to fly instead of slowing down/hyzering out. This is very apparent on ridiculously steep downhill shots.

I do not agree with the theories that A. glide is a factor independent of "speed" combined with "stability" and B. that discs with the same "speed" have varying amount of "high speed and low speed stability" as is widely claimed. I think there is simply a relative "speed" and relative "stability" for every disc. The "faster" a disc the more likely it is to fade out and the more power it takes to control the disc in a way similar to a "slower" disc thrown at a slower speed. I think if you could line up any amount of different molds across companies and plastics which are the same "speed" once all of them had been worn to an equal amount of either high speed stability or low speed stability that they would all have the exact same "speed", "glide", "high speed stability", and "low speed stability". They would all fly identically and the same distance although they had varying shapes, materials, amounts of wear, etc. Although some factors like density, dome, flexibility, and gyroscopic effect would change the results.

For instance lets say i own a champion eagle x which is a little more "overstable" than my star teebird. They are both equally dense, gyrosopic, domey, and have a pretty similar look but the teebird looks a little sleeker. I put my teebird under my bed and forget about it and I throw my eagle x every day. My eagle wears very rapidly and becomes abraded. I remember that I stashed my teebird away and decide to compare the two. I find that when I throw them -identically- (which is quite unrealistic...unless you're Paul McBeth) they turn over the same amount and fade the same amount, and land on top of each other. This is my theory as it ties all of my experiences together beautifully and makes sense of them all. Discs aren't nearly as magical as I once thought. Nowadays I just find a disc that is cheap, feels great, and flys with the speed and stability that I desire for all of the courses I play.

But back on topic: if flashing is uncomfortable and you don't care if your disc may fliy a little less overstable, I say carefully remove it.
 
Thank you VERY MUCH for the detailed response. I love to geek out on the science and understand the "why" of how discs fly. I read most of this multiple times to fully grasp what you're saying and agree with 90% of it. I do believe, however, that there are subtle differences due to wing shape and other aerodynamics that differentiate discs from one another. Fort the most part I understand and agree with what you're saying though and appreciate the thought that went into your reply.
 
We both win because I like to geek out, argue, and write enormous postulating off topic essays that few care to read anyway haha. Yeah there certainly more to it than my over-simplified hypothesis. All of this is so complex and mysterious this is just some of the best ideas I have been able to use to help explain it all to myself.
 

Latest posts

Top