Fly18 Rubber TeePads

[srm_520]

You know if you had the money and resources - it would be nice to have flypads over concrete. You get the great grip surface of the flypad and it lasts longer and is more stable with the concrete under it. You could also attach them into the concrete. True - it may be overkill, but if beggars could be choosers.

 

[DWill]

You know if you had the money and resources - it would be nice to have flypads over concrete. You get the great grip surface of the flypad and it lasts longer and is more stable with the concrete under it. You could also attach them into the concrete. True - it may be overkill, but if beggars could be choosers.

This isn't a bad idea, but maybe you could substitute the concrete with black top, concrete or brick paver's or some other similar appropriate material.





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[Mando]

I played Tom Triplett from (the blues) which is billed as fly18, but had carpet remnants tacked to a fly18 box. They which were the best pads I've seen anywhere, and must be way cheaper than rubber. Bueller ?

 

[80playedin10states]

carpet remnants work just fine and free if you know someone who lays carpet. imho, rubber is a waste of time and money...cement or concrete is the way to go.

 

[craigg]

Fly18 is just a passthrough for the rubber pads.
Avoid the markup and go direct to the manufacturer.
The Product is called Dynaflex 19
The Company is Ecore International out of Lancaster, PA
Buy the material as roll goods and cut it yourself - that way you can make it a better length for an ACTUAL teepad - 10' long tees are just gay.

 

[Mando]

Seems like the only advantage rubber has over carpet is that it looks better...

 

[Mando]

I want to try some carpeted pads.
I picked up enough regular indoor carpet for 6 holes today.
Should I spray it with scotchgaurd ?
Can anyone give me some construction details and/or LMK if any carpet is suitable, or does it need to be outdoor ?

 

[craigg]

Like any roll goods - a little prep goes along way.
If you lay the carpet down on grass or dirt - eventually the mud will creep up through the backing - so if you are able to get either sand or stone dust down underneath- the carpet will last that much longer because it will drain.
No you don't need outdoor carpet - or scotchguard

 

[craigg]

Also, it doesn't hurt to spike it down to keep it from moving around - sod staples work really well for this.

 

[Mando]

Like any roll goods - a little prep goes along way.
If you lay the carpet down on grass or dirt - eventually the mud will creep up through the backing - so if you are able to get either sand or stone dust down underneath- the carpet will last that much longer because it will drain.
No you don't need outdoor carpet - or scotchguard

Thanks for clearing that up. One of the local carpet guys told me that indoor carpet would "fall apart" when it got wet. So far between buying remnants cheap and getting some out of the dumpster, I'm at $3.30 per pad. So with sand and pressure treated framing, I should be able to get this done for under $25.00 per pad in materials.
Sweet.

 

[craigg]

Make no mistake - indoor carpet will degrade outside. Don't believe them to be permanent. But it's really remarkable how long they do last. There have been some at the Grange that have been there several years and are still viable. I never would have believed it before I saw it done.

 

[DavidSauls]

We have carpet on our private course and it works great. You do need to grade out the ground below it very level; imperfections that you wouldn't mind on an earth tee seem magnified under carpet, perhaps because you feel but can't see them.

Staking down the back corners is important, to prevent slides. Even a half-inch slide will mess up your drive.

Be careful with low areas or places where rainwater might flow. One drawback to carpets is that, when they get soaking wet, they take a long time to dry (worse with indoor carpet). And if mud can wash onto them, it gets in them and they're slick forever.

Finally, we tried indoor carpet, upside down. It provided terrific grip. It also deteriorated quite quickly.

 

[33tango]

I played Tom Triplett from (the blues) which is billed as fly18, but had carpet remnants tacked to a fly18 box. They which were the best pads I've seen anywhere, and must be way cheaper than rubber. Bueller ?

TTPDGC isn't actually FLY18, the pads were cut from a roll and are a similar material we got from Premier Die Cutting. We just did the pads for 20 of the tees in January 2009, some of the others are still carpet. We're planning on getting the rest of the pads done before Mosquito Madness in June.

 

[Mando]

Thanks.
So, is building a 2x4 or 2x6 PT box around the pad perimeter, overkill ?

We have carpet on our private course and it works great. You do need to grade out the ground below it very level; imperfections that you wouldn't mind on an earth tee seem magnified under carpet, perhaps because you feel but can't see them.

Staking down the back corners is important, to prevent slides. Even a half-inch slide will mess up your drive.

Be careful with low areas or places where rainwater might flow. One drawback to carpets is that, when they get soaking wet, they take a long time to dry (worse with indoor carpet). And if mud can wash onto them, it gets in them and they're slick forever.

Finally, we tried indoor carpet, upside down. It provided terrific grip. It also deteriorated quite quickly.

 

[DavidSauls]

Not sure, as I'm not sure what a PT Box is. However, in my mind very few things are overkill---we're always trying to make things better.

The carpet on the ground, if the ground below is well-graded and the carpet anchored at the back, works very well. Not as well as concrete pads, but that's impractical to us. If we built up the earth under and around the tee to lift it an inch or two above the surrounding grade, it would drain away water and be an improvement. Any sort of framed box or fill under or around carpet teepads would also help drainage.

One benefit of carpet or rubber teepads on well-graded ground is that they can be made flush with the ground. Oftentimes concrete tees, or framed tees with gravel or rubber mats, eventually have a drop-off at the front, which is a bit of a safety hazard (even if it's 2' in front of the tee).

We've talked about creating semi-portable pads by building a frame, with plywood on the top, and covering it with rubber. As a private course we don't have theft concerns, nor heavy traffic.....but moving teepads as the course evolves is of considerable value to us.

 

[craigg]

PT is pressure treated
And yes building a box around virtually any kind of pad can be a good thing, especially to help control and hold fill material. It's a good addition - so long as the box itself does not become an obstacle to teeing off. You shouldn't have to step up on to or down off of the tee in order to use it. Unless of course it is so large that everyone can start and finish ON the pad (haven't seen many that big).

 

[Mando]

PT is pressure treated
And yes building a box around virtually any kind of pad can be a good thing, especially to help control and hold fill material. It's a good addition - so long as the box itself does not become an obstacle to teeing off. You shouldn't have to step up on to or down off of the tee in order to use it. Unless of course it is so large that everyone can start and finish ON the pad (haven't seen many that big).

I have three pads that are currently on uneven slickrock. Is 6x12 large enough to start and finish on the pad ?
I'll probably need to mix some sakrete to build up the low side and level the box.
Would you go with sand filler or plywood under the carpet ?

 

[DavidSauls]

Personally, I feel the ideal is 20' of level area. My home course until I built my own has 12' concrete tees, and I use all 12' . I've watched a number of people start off the back, stepping up where the concrete was not flush, but very few people more than 3'. Though I've seen the rare person who gets a runup like an airport runway---nothing is long enough for them! Also, I hope for 6' flush off the front of tee, for a vigorous follow-through without risking injury.

Exceptions made for holes 200' or less.

This is ideal, of course.....even my private course doesn't meet these standards on all holes, but does on the "grip it & rip it" holes.

 

[craigg]

12' is too short in my opinion. The pads I build for Seneca are 4'x14' concrete with 2-3' of level area all the way around.

 

[Mando]

We built our first frame last night using PT 2x4s and metal brackets to reinforce the corners. Sizes will vary depending on the carpet dimensions. This first one is 5.5' x 10' and will go on one of the slickrock pads. I figure I can mix up some bags of concrete to build up the low spots and extend the length. Going to fill the middle with either sand or pea gravel depending on cost.
Question ?
When I measure carpet for frame, should I allow for some sag. I noticed the carpet pads at Tom Triplett were concave, but they may have just stretched out over time as the filler became more compacted. I suppose tamping the filler would be a good idea.

Starting to wonder whether this is going to be any cheaper than concrete.
Already have $25.00/pad just in framing, hardware, and carpet.