help with disc golf terms

[gabe007]

ok i having troubke learning when people talk with disc golf terms like whats a turnover or fade or understabe and overstable. does anyone have a link to something like this or what can someone help me out please!!!!

 

[CwAlbino]

Stability is really relative to the speed it's thrown, but for the most part there is a general consensus.

Understable = when thrown right hand back hand, It's going to want to go right, at least at the beginning of the flight. Going to the right is called turn, and is caused by HSS (High speed stability) being negative on the flight chart. Examples of an understable disc: Roadrunner, Xpress, Monarch, Vulcan

Overstable = This is the opposite of understability, it resists turn. So a disc that tries to go left is overstable. Examples of an overstable disc: Firebird, Predator, Max


More in depth, technical answer...

I feel like writing a lot so....

Breakdown of stability, weights, and speed.

RHBH = Right Hand Backhand

Turn = HSS (High Speed Stability) (What makes a disc go right for RHBH thrower)
Fade = LSS (Low Speed Stability) (What makes the disc go left at the end of it's flight for a RHBH thrower)

Stability and Speed

Stability is dependent on the speed that you throw the disc versus the spin you are creating. If you are throwing the disc very fast (400' of distance on a teebird to make it easy) then the majority of discs under speed 11 or 12 (Wraiths and Destroyers) will react more understable, or with less HSS. This means if it was a -1 turn, it might react like a -2 or even lower. If you throw under that distance, the faster discs will react more overstable, or with more HSS.

The other factor of stability is spin. It can be manipulated just as much as speed to make a disc do what you want it to. The most common spin changing factor is Off Axis Torque. OAT is any force applied on the disc that isn't rotational, or in the direction of the throw. In a .gif, it is this (don't worry about the rotational arrows, I was in a rush when I made this)

Off Axis Torque is generally referred to as bad, but it can be used two ways.

Roll Over- This is the Bad OAT usually. Most people will roll their shoulder or wrist, moving the flight plate (visualize the opposite side of where you are holding) up as it's leaving the hand. Not only will the release angle be different, but the flutter actually slows down the spin. Since speed and spin are inversely proportional to each other, when speed increased or spin slows, turn increases.

A way to visualize it would be to say that the velocity of the disc is faster than spin. As the gap of speed increases between the two, turn increases (whether it's speed increasing, or spin decreasing, or both). As the gap closes, turn decreases.

With control, you can throw with a wrist flick at the end and force more turn than a normal throw would allow

Roll Under- Anyone that's played ultimate can show you this form of OAT. It does the exact opposite as roll over, and is pretty much the only way to throw a lid for distance. Roll under requires release of the disc, unlike how most teach in disc golf to let the disc rip out of your hand. As you come to the release, you press down and forward with the thumb, and open up your fingers. The palm of your hand should follow the disc's trajectory. What this does is decreases the speed, but maintains the speed. This is a beautiful touch shot, and used on an understable disc can allow you to throw straight and hyzer shots without a problem.

Weight
There really is no simple answer for weight, I will say though that max weight is very overrated. Generally, lower weight will act like it has less HSS and will turn more. There are discs out there though in which the molds of the 150 class are more overstable (Destroyer, Firebird, ESP Flick) etc. I believe this is mainly just because of how they were molded at lower weights.

Whatever weight range you choose, stick with that weight range. Having a couple 150's, and then a couple 175-180's is just going to mess up your timing. If you've ever played baseball, think about switching back and forth between bat weights. The first couple swings with the different weight bat will be off, well in disc golf you don't get practice swings, so staying consistent in your weights will be very beneficial.

Max Distance Drivers: These are usually going to be 168-172, exceptions are for overstable and wind discs. Wind discs you will want to be heavier.

Non-Overstable Fairway Drivers: These are fine at heavier weights, probably 172-174.

Mids and Putters: These can be as heavy as you want, generally the heavier the better. You want these to be consistent in all weather conditions more than anything else. Because they are so slow, you should be able to overpower or at least achieve the full power of your discs even if they are 180g.


How does this translate to disc choices?
Most will say that the best way to build a bag is to cover every shot you will need, in the least amount of discs. This is called mold minimizing. You really can't achieve this by throwing outside of your power range. To reach the full potential of a disc, you need to be able to power down on a it and still achieve it's listed flight ratings. Being able to overpower and underpower a disc is what makes slower discs so workable. Not being able to reach the power threshold of a disc just makes it more of a 1 trick pony. A wraith in the hands of someone will low power will act overstable, but for a power thrower, they can throw it in any direction they want.

Finding slower discs that you can manipulate are going to be your workhorses, and generally you want discs that are near stable (0hss). They don't have to be the same mold, but having different stages of wear on a slightly overstable disc mold (I use an avenger) would be the same as if I threw an eagle, a teebird, and a leopard. Remember here that cheap plastic is your friend. Beating up dx/proD or pro/EliteX plastic in a slightly overstable or stable mold can produce a very reliable turnover disc.

Once you find your workhorses, you can fill in the gaps with your utilities. These are going to be the extremes of the stabilities.

Common Overstable/Wind Discs:
Slower-Firebird, Flick, Monster, XXX, Whippet, Banshee, Predator, Blaze
Faster-Force, Xcalibur, Max, Ape, Spirit

Common Understable/Flip Discs:
Slower-Vision, AvengerSS, Leopard, XL
Faster-Monarch, Katana, Havoc, Vulcan

Each of these are also good for rollers, overstable best for forehand rollers, and understable for backhand. I would recommend the slower ones anyday for the ones listed.

Depending how what all you throw, choose the best disc for each of your shots, needs might include:
-FH Roller
-BH Roller
-Overhand
-Extreme Hyzers/Anhyzers
-Wind (head/cross/tail)



I hope this helped whoever actually takes the time to read it all

 

[BrotherDave]

Any other quirky lingo and terms should be cleared up in here.

Turnover is when a disc is thrown with hyzer and it flips past flat into an anhyzer angle and finishes right (RHBH). Usually done with understable discs.