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In need of a driver recommendation

If you are looking to try out new plastic, I'd look into some of the different midrange discs out there. There are plently of great mids out there including the Roc from Innova; Buzz, Wasp, and Comet from Discraft; and the Fuse and Core from Latitude 64.
Yeah, my buddy has a Z Buzzz that I've been wanting to try out. If I don't like that one, I was thinking about trying a Shark or something.
 
The Orc goes a little further on average, but not much. It has more of a S-shaped flight when i throw it well... that is, until recently. It seems that lately it wants to do nothing but turn over and crash into the ground. It doesn't seem like it is terribly beat up, but one part of the rim is definitely warped from when I hit a tree pretty hard. ...

I am still trying to figure out how to "snap" the disc and generate more spin. I am feeling that it will come sooner or later because I practice quite a bit and have been reading up on all the instructionals online.

I'm gonna poke my nose in here. Like others have mentioned, the form flaws are probably causing the orc to flip. Yeah, the damage will aid in that, too. But tone down your efforts on trying to generate more snap/spin. I'm willing to bet that is why they're flipping. Over torquing the disc will induce Off Axis Torque (OAT) and flip the discs.
 
Shark is a good choice. Don't listen to that stupid sales cleark, I don't even know him but I can tell he sucks;)

have fun, ask questions- welcome to the site:)
 
I'm gonna poke my nose in here. Like others have mentioned, the form flaws are probably causing the orc to flip. Yeah, the damage will aid in that, too. But tone down your efforts on trying to generate more snap/spin. I'm willing to bet that is why they're flipping. Over torquing the disc will induce Off Axis Torque (OAT) and flip the discs.
I am pretty sure I figured out the problem today. My buddy mentioned that the disc is up at around head-height when I reach back then my forward motion is U-shaped. So I started reaching back to something more like waist-level and really tried hard to pull through in a straight line. Every throw thereafter didn't have so much tendency to turn and I had to start releasing closer to level with the Orc. It was actually going pretty straight at that point.

So... I guess this is in the wrong subforum now :).
 
you're doing the right thing by asking questions. you are also doing the right thing by sticking with the Gazelle. It's a great beginner driver as stated and it will serve you well for a long time. It will take a little while to build your form up to get the Orc out to it's full potential (400'+), but it is worth the effort and hard work. just keep practicing and trying to improve and reading. it takes time and effort to achieve your goals.
 
I am pretty sure I figured out the problem today. My buddy mentioned that the disc is up at around head-height when I reach back then my forward motion is U-shaped. So I started reaching back to something more like waist-level and really tried hard to pull through in a straight line. Every throw thereafter didn't have so much tendency to turn and I had to start releasing closer to level with the Orc. It was actually going pretty straight at that point.

So... I guess this is in the wrong subforum now :).

Way to go! :thmbup:
 
Hello everyone, I am relatively new player and this is my first DG-related post anywhere.

I just need some feedback on what you think is a good driver for me, so I'll give a little bit of a background. Right now I own a DX Gazelle 175g, a DX Orc 173g, a DX Aviar 147g, and an S Wizard 175g. I figured I would go with the heavier weights because its generally pretty windy where I play. The Aviar is the exception and is actually a carry-over from when I played several years back, I figured I would use it for approaches when I need it to float at a fairly low speed such as when I need to stay under a branch or something.

I feel that I throw the Gazelle pretty well, it typically stays in that 10-20' range off the ground and goes out to 280-300' when I make a clean and level (or slightly hyzered) release. It usually goes pretty straight or with a little turn early then fades a little at the end.

The Orc goes a little further on average, but not much. It has more of a S-shaped flight when i throw it well... that is, until recently. It seems that lately it wants to do nothing but turn over and crash into the ground. It doesn't seem like it is terribly beat up, but one part of the rim is definitely warped from when I hit a tree pretty hard. I tried to bend it back but it just seemed to make the rest of the disc messed up and left the warped part the same. The thing about the Orc when it was flying well was that I pretty much needed to start it on an anhyzer or risk having it fly way left if I didn't get all of my speed on it. Now even if I start it on a hyzer it will probably turn over.

I am still trying to figure out how to "snap" the disc and generate more spin. I am feeling that it will come sooner or later because I practice quite a bit and have been reading up on all the instructionals online.

So anyway, I am thinking I could use something like a mid-160's Valkyrie or Teebird. I don't have a lot of money to spend on trying out a lot of different discs, and right now it seems that "try-before-you-buy" is not really an option around here.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

I know you already have an Orc, but I would definitely recommend trying out a Champion Orc. I love mine. its a little overstable new but once you work it in, it will hold that S line very well!

Another one you may want to consider is a Star Destroyer. Overstable and then once its worked it flies faster and farther than the Orc...although the Orc can glide like crazy!

You talked about the Teebird...look at a TL. Its longer and straighter and I love mine in the Star plastic!

Good luck with your game and have fun :D
 
I know you didn't ask, but it sound like oat. That Orc shouldn't be flipping. Practice with what you have, one you get it straightend out, it'll open up more options.

Other than that, leopard/xl

Read the post dude.

Not everything that flips is from OAT, this disc is clearly thrashed.
 
I am pretty sure I figured out the problem today. My buddy mentioned that the disc is up at around head-height when I reach back then my forward motion is U-shaped. So I started reaching back to something more like waist-level and really tried hard to pull through in a straight line. Every throw thereafter didn't have so much tendency to turn and I had to start releasing closer to level with the Orc. It was actually going pretty straight at that point.

So... I guess this is in the wrong subforum now :).

Read the post dude.

Not everything that flips is from OAT, this disc is clearly thrashed.

Maybe you should read the entire thread before calling someone on their advice. As his throw describes a very OAT enabling throw. He also says the Orc stays closer to level, perhaps that's due to fixing his form. Or maybe we're all just dumb and don't know how to diagnose technique problems.
 
Maybe you should read the entire thread before calling someone on their advice. As his throw describes a very OAT enabling throw. He also says the Orc stays closer to level, perhaps that's due to fixing his form. Or maybe we're all just dumb and don't know how to diagnose technique problems.

Sure did, thanks. He probably has some OAT as most newer players, but based on the fact that he's getting his gazelle out 300ish and the fact that he said his orc was "warped" in the rim after a serious tree hit, I'd say that orc is trashed.

Have you ever thrown a DX wraith/orc/beast/whatever with a BIG chunk out of the rim? How did it fly?
 
I went back and read the op again-I stand by my post. I also throw alot of baseline plastic so my version of beat may differ.

I feel I must say that IMHO telling a person they are showing signs of oat is not an insult or put down in any way. It's not like we all learned proper form from our dads or teachers. I wish someone would of told me sooner- the guys I learned from had already been throwing a few years, but like many/most, they had no clue about oat, all they could tell me was I sucked and to pull like a lawnmower. I'll also say I've seen many players shoot decent rounds using oat unintentionally, but IMO the game is much more enjoyable when you can use the whole spectrum of discs and have shot options at all courses/holes.
 
There's a big difference between a disc flying out to 250/300/350(dependant on player) and turning right and never coming back and a disc turning and burning. Even for discs so flippy they turn into rollers, it's usually stable/understable plastic to begin with.

I have bent up, bent down, nicked, lighter repaired, and just plain ugly discs. I even carried a challenger with a dog bite til I started playing tourneys- it's still my favorite challenger, just as my d wasp is my fav wasp.
 
Have you ever thrown a DX wraith/orc/beast/whatever with a BIG chunk out of the rim? How did it fly?

http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16157
The drivers you listed aren't pictured here. But, I have thrown, and do have a few of the disc you're talking about. They fly fine , he didn't say they had a gash out of it. Said it was bent, level of "beatness" or destruction to baseline plastic varies. Without visual proof, you don't know. After he said it was flying better, and description of his throw. Trust me, I go with form over destroyed plastic being the case. That's not to say the disc might not be less stable.

All that is beside that main fact, the Gazelle is still the better option.
 
Its my own thread, so I can revive it after a few days, right? ;)

Alright, the weather has been kind of crappy around here lately but I have managed to get out and play a few rounds. I was to the point with the Orc that sometimes I would throw something useful like a fairly straight drive or a nice sweeping fade around the corner. However, something like 1 out of 4 throws with it, it would do the hard turnover thing (still my form, I know). I just generally didn't feel very good about the disc, so I found a place nearby that buys not-too-worn discs for a couple bucks. I probably could have gotten a bit more selling online, but I didn't really want to deal with shipping and all that for just a few dollars.

I went out looking for a 170ish DX Valkyrie, something that I could use for big fades if nothing else, because it is currently too fast for me anyway. Then I can eventually use it as a straight driver once my form improves.

I noticed something fairly odd in my search, that all the Valkyries around here have these weird mold marks on the flight plate. Little rough flat spots where it appears they stuck to the mold. So I decided to just settle with a 165 DX Viking. This will be my big fade and grow-into disc.

I'll still throw the Gazelle more than anything though, because it seems that I can't do much other than throw it straight and low (a good thing). I also picked up a 168 DX Shark, which after only one round I know will be very useful to me.
 
Gah, I'm still fairly confused on what is going on here. I know its probably OAT, but it seems like even when I get a really clean release with no flutter, the flight pattern is about the same. Flies out really straight then turns right, not necessarily dropping out of the sky but not gliding very far either. Actually very useful for holes that turn right, the faster I try to throw, the farther it goes out before turning. Sometimes it stays in the air long enough to get a slight fade back, if thrown high enough. This is happening with the new Viking more than my somewhat worn Gazelle. I have to put everything on a fairly steep hyzer initially to get anything resembling a straight shot. Still only flying around 300', maybe a little farther if the initial hyzer and height are optimal (I believe one went almost 350' the other day with the Viking, hard to get an accurate measurement though). As you can see in my sig, I bought a heavy Teebird just to see what it would do. I definitely can't turn this one over and it usually hyzers out quite a bit no matter what I do.

I am really working on getting some video, I just don't have a camera other than my cell phone. A buddy of mine has a decent one, but its difficult enough prying him away from his schedule to go play even one round, let alone a field practice session.
 
Sorry for the inconsistency, but I am literally making little tweaks to my form every day to try to eek out a little more distance. Things got a lot better after I started pulling in more of a straight line, but evidently the problem is still not completely solved.

I actually shot a +1 the other day, but it was mostly due to making several 40'+ putts.
 
Sounds like you're rolling your wrist over to me, which is a form of OAT but isn't as obvious since you can do it w/o a lot of visible flutter or wobble. Make note of where your palm is facing after you throw, if it's skyward, it's wrist roll.
 
Yeah, I was playing PS3, but sort of read your post, had to refresh over the topic. Like Dave said, it sounds a bit like wrist roll, or you could just strong arming. Either would produce the same results.
 
Sounds like you're rolling your wrist over to me, which is a form of OAT but isn't as obvious since you can do it w/o a lot of visible flutter or wobble. Make note of where your palm is facing after you throw, if it's skyward, it's wrist roll.
Ok, so I want my palm to be oriented perpendicular to the ground through the follow-through?

As for Lithicon's comment, I very well still may be strong arming but I am trying really hard to use lower-body/torso for power and just whip my arm around. At the end of the day (and sometimes in the morning) my lower back is typically somewhat sore after I made that change. I used to have a sore shoulder and pectoral before the change. Still not getting all the energy into the disc, but working on it.
 

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