• Discover new ways to elevate your game with the updated DGCourseReview app!
    It's entirely free and enhanced with features shaped by user feedback to ensure your best experience on the course. (App Store or Google Play)

Lets have a discussion about manipulating spin

Mike C

* Ace Member *
Gold level trusted reviewer
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
7,973
Location
South Carolina, USA
Here are my basic thoughts:


- Spin is a variable that can be consciously manipulated during most types of throws.

- Being able to manipulate spin in different ways can enable the thrower to achieve different flights out of the same disc.

- In general, high degrees of spin tend to stabilize the disc and lock it in to the given release angle. You can experiment with this idea using a top, yo-yo, bicycle wheel etc. The faster they spin the more stable they become.



Here are some situations where I might use increased spin for a specific type of flight:

- Being near the limit of my jump putt range, putting extra spin on the putt helps it hold a straight line longer before it fades.

- Hyzer flipping my understable putters and mids on longer holes, adding extra spin delays the turn, letting it travel straight down the fairway further before bending right.

- Headwind fighting. Hyzer release + high degrees of spin make a disc much more difficult to flip over compared to low spin and / or flat releases.

- Fast greens. Intentionally using minimal spin on an approach shot where I want the disc to sit as soon as it hits the ground increases my odds of success.

- Rollers. Obviously more spin = more distance here, not that it isn't usually the case for air shots as well.


So what you're wondering now might be how do I manipulate spin? And how do I know it works?

For putts its a combination of finger spring and wrist movement. Most spin comes from using my wrist like a hinge, but a small amount comes from springing my fingers forward as I release the disc. (FWIW most pros seem to advocate against spin putts, and using your wrist like a hinge adds another degree of movement you have to control, so I don't recommend other people try my putting style.)

For backhand drives and approach shots it comes through grip manipulation, wrist movement, and overall mechanics.

As far as grip is concerned, for me, more fingers curled under the rim = more spin. This is one of the main reasons you see me use a four finger power grip even on 150' approach shots. I like using lots of spin on my approach throws for two reasons. First is it helps them lock on to the flight I want them to keep, second is I use the small roll at the end to curl it towards my target, just like players utilize skips on shots with drivers. I try to land the approach shot so the disc is spinning away from the basket, so that when it lands it will curve towards it. I can link to numerous examples of this if anyone is curious to watch it.

For backhand approach shots I want to throw with less spin, I use a different grip (Its rare you see this as I use FH for touch approaches more often). I'm not sure what the grip is I think I saw it on DGR ages ago, but I grip the disc in a four finger power grip, then fan out my middle and ring finger. Using this grip I don't throw as far or with as much spin.

There are two mechanics that took me a long time to implement into my backhand throw. Wrist hinge movement and angling my wrist down, similar to a handshake. Ironically both are things that I intentionally stop doing at times these days. Removing the wrist angle for stall shots is another topic, but wrist hinge movement is definitely relevant here. Actively moving your hand outwards right at the end of the throw, letting your wrist work like a hinge, will noticeably increase spin (and distance) on your throw. It's tough to see because its the quickest part of the throwing motion, but you can see the active wrist extension here.

Lastly I mention overall mechanics for adding spin to the throw. This is part of the reason why good form = longer throws. Its not all about velocity. Its a combination of things. Spin, velocity, nose angle, height, stability, disc speed etc. Anyways sound mechanics will inherently allow the player to add more spin. Late pull through will give more spin than an early pull through. Proper leverage of the disc through the hit adds spin. Pull in close to the chest rather than swinging around the body increases spin. All of these things add up to not only increase distance, but help your disc hold the line. Why is it a new player can turn over a putter trying to drive it 150' but an experienced player can throw it dead straight for 300'? This is one of the reasons.



How do I know the rate of spin is being affected, and the changes in flight I'm seeing are not due to another variable?

Well, its impossible for me to 100% isolate one variable from others using my limited equipment, but I have been able to verify these things affect the rate of spin. Using multiple high speed cameras setup me and my friends experimented with these things. Run-up VS no run-up, different grips, full rewach back vs stunted approach throw reach back. Going back over the footage and figuring out the rates of spin for the throws, what we observed matched everything I just wrote. Unfortunately I don't have that footage anymore, along with a lot of older disc golf footage I put together, but maybe if the discussion that follows is interesting enough I'd feel inclined to setup another experiment.

Additionally there are a wealth of resources on the physics of discs, flying objects, spinning objects etc. anyone can refer to in regards to the changes in flight I've observed in my discs, thought to be the result of different rates of spin. All the material I've gone over matches my observations.

Now, like I mentioned with my putting style, I did not write any of this to claim it is good form or the best way to do any particular thing in disc golf. It is merely an explanation of a subset of techniques I use that some DGCR'ers feel do not exist. Well, just like the earth being round, you can choose to not believe in something and still be affected by it ;)
 
Fundamentally, all pros I've ever watched put as much spin as they can on every throw they make. They vary forward speed, but not torque. Your going to have some variation depending on mechanics s, upshot vs drive of putt, but for each type, maximum torque by my observation.
 
Hyzer, roller Annie is checked not by rotational speed, by my observation. It is varies by disc stability and angle of release.
 
My small contribution is that I've learned that if I want to throw a short turnover upshot (forehand or backhand) I cut the distance back with a shorter reach back and less lower body but I focus on spinning the disc just as fast as ever to get it to follow the turnover line I need. I see lots of players who struggle with this shot kind of float it up there without enough spin and it stalls and hyzers out off target.

I'm also beginning to realize that a long BH turnover shot is often inferior to a FH shot because the turnover requires you to spin the disc at just the right rpm to get the flight you want. You spin it too hard and it anhyzers too much, spin it too weakly and it stalls and fades. It's a tricky, delicate balance. I'm committed to improving my forehand this season so that I don't have to rely on that long turnover BH so much.
 
Most top pros say they get more spin with less fingers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sxw8ix0CYs#t=12m45s

I should have clarified that part of my post in that it applies to approach shots, not distance drives. For distance shots I have not ever successfully used a 2 finger grip of any sort. If I am doing a standstill approach shot with a putter from 150' out I get more spin with a four finger power grip than I do a two finger modified power grip, fan grip, or other grips.

Hyzer, roller Annie is achieved not by rotational speed, by my observation. It is achieved by disc stability and angle of release.

I didn't mean to imply the basic different types of flight were caused by varying the levels of spin. Rather that the fine characteristics of these flights can be tuned with spin manipulation. Going off what mizunodave said above me, throw an anhyzer with little spin and it'll be more likely to flex out VS a high spin anny which is more inclined to hold the angle to the ground.

The anhyzer release angle is caused by the player positioning the disc that way as he's pulling through. The duration the disc holds the anhyzer for is influenced by the rate of spin, among other variables, and can be manipulated to achieve different types of anhyzers.
 
Last edited:
Most top pros say they get more spin with less fingers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sxw8ix0CYs#t=12m45s

I agree with this. I fan grip on anything that isn't a driver, because I'm trying to get more spin, which I feel I do with the fan grip because with a power grip I'm just letting the weight and momentum of the disc pop itself out of my hand. I'm not consciously doing more than that, unless it's on a short floaty approach or a spin putt.
 
I think we all make subconscious adjustments in our form which causes more or less spin depending on the shot. But I can't see anyone thinking...."how much spin do I need on this shot?". :confused:
 
I think we all make subconscious adjustments in our form which causes more or less spin depending on the shot. But I can't see anyone thinking...."how much spin do I need on this shot?". :confused:

I'm with you. Seems like a great way to overthink it and mess yourself up. Pick a line and a disc and then throw the disc on that line.
 
I can't imagine putting more spin on a disc than I am with a typical full power drive. I've definitely reduced my spin level (push putting), but the reason is consistent release direction, not flight.
 
For me, on my drives anyway, how much snap I get out of my grip usually determines how much spin the disc has. To get a turnover or flex shot to not fight back and fade takes good snap/ spin. Some of my best distance shots are turnovers that never come back to fade. That's because good snap adds distance and spin, and the spin gives the gyroscopic stability necessary to hold a line and not fade.
 
For me, on my drives anyway, how much snap I get out of my grip usually determines how much spin the disc has. To get a turnover or flex shot to not fight back and fade takes good snap/ spin. Some of my best distance shots are turnovers that never come back to fade. That's because good snap adds distance and spin, and the spin gives the gyroscopic stability necessary to hold a line and not fade.
What is snap?

Your best distance shots are going to be fading or flexing out, but since the disc was turned over - it fades/flexes out straighter or flatter to yield more distance than if it the disc started fading out from a flat or flatter angle. More spin will fade less or fade straighter for more distance no matter the angle unless it doesn't ever fade which is most likely going to be a roller.

Read the Flex section:
https://www.discgolfreview.com/resources/articles/distancelines.shtml
 
You misunderstand me, 22. First, for me, snap is a solid hit with clear feel of the disc "snapping" out of my grip instead of a loose release. When it happens right the disc ejects with more speed and more spin. More speed increases understability, hence the turnover. More spin helps it hold that slight anhyzer line all the way. I hear what you're saying, and If I could reliably hyzer flip I undoubtedly would get more distance. But, because most of my drives are released flat, a good speedy release with good spin usually means a stable turnover with greater distance than I typically get with an s-curve with fade But, that long turnover gives me greater distance consistantly.
 
. But, because most of my drives are released flat, a good speedy release with good spin usually means a stable turnover with greater distance than I typically get with an s-curve with fade But, that long turnover gives me greater distance consistantly.

I understand what you're saying with getting a really good pull on a disc and having it turn more than a less stellar pull would, but still flying further. I think the missing piece from what Seabas22 said to what you're saying is the height of the throw. That same awesome pull/snap/rip (whatever you want to call it) put on a slightly higher line where the disc would be allowed to slow down and flex back will add more distance. If the disc won't flex back on manageably higher lines, then you have found yourself a sky anny/roller disc.
 
I understand what you're saying with getting a really good pull on a disc and having it turn more than a less stellar pull would, but still flying further. I think the missing piece from what Seabas22 said to what you're saying is the height of the throw. That same awesome pull/snap/rip (whatever you want to call it) put on a slightly higher line where the disc would be allowed to slow down and flex back will add more distance. If the disc won't flex back on manageably higher lines, then you have found yourself a sky anny/roller disc.

I understand the logic of having to get some altitude in order to allow the disc air time to travel, but, unfortunately, any drive above 15' that I throw loses distance. I understand about nose down and all that, but I still haven't gotten the knack for getting the disc up there without increasing the drag. Now, when I throw a bee line that never gets above 5'-10' off the ground, at least when I do it right, I achieve a good nose down flight, but any time I try to raise the angle flight and keep the (ideally) -4 degrees of nose angle, I get maybe 80% of the distance I'd get if I just threw straight and level with nose down. I drool with envy when I watch the pros get sometimes 40+ feet above the ground and yet the disc travels and glides and never stalls. Maybe I'm subconsciously adjusting the nose up relative to the line of flight when I raise my release point higher. I wouldn't think so, but maybe.

Here's a question. I loves me a glide 6 disc, though I mostly use glide 5 drivers like the MVP Vanish. Is it possible higher glide is detrimental to a higher altitude flight? I've come to believe it's not so much lift that creates the most drag, but giving in to lift. By that I mean, as long as the disc's lift and gravity are more or less in balance, the disc goes forward with minimal drag from these forces, but throw a disc that gets lift that wins out over gravity (disc climbs), and the slowing due to drag is very noticeable.
 
I understand the logic of having to get some altitude in order to allow the disc air time to travel, but, unfortunately, any drive above 15' that I throw loses distance.

You should purchase a very light understable disc and learn how to (rhbh) throw it on a hyzer, up high, to the left, watch it flip up, turn over, turn to the right, glide for days, and then fade at the end. Simon Lizotte himself showed me this in person a while back as we talked about max distance world record lines. He was throwing 160 class discs btw. Start with the lightest disc and then gradually move to slightly heavier discs as you find perfect balance that allows you to still turn it over but still enough stability to fade back at the end of it's flight. You will get some crazy distance potential at the expense of severe horizontal movement across the fairway.
 
You misunderstand me, 22. First, for me, snap is a solid hit with clear feel of the disc "snapping" out of my grip instead of a loose release. When it happens right the disc ejects with more speed and more spin. More speed increases understability, hence the turnover. More spin helps it hold that slight anhyzer line all the way. I hear what you're saying, and If I could reliably hyzer flip I undoubtedly would get more distance. But, because most of my drives are released flat, a good speedy release with good spin usually means a stable turnover with greater distance than I typically get with an s-curve with fade But, that long turnover gives me greater distance consistantly.
You say that "more snap" increases speed making the disc less stable, and you say that "more snap" also increases spin making the disc more stable holding it in turnover anhyzer angle. It can't do both. Precession is a rolling of the disc, it's always rolling into turn or fade no matter how much spin, spin rate just affects the amount or rate of precession in one roll direction or the other. The fact that a disc can be thought of as having an ever-long or ever-changing nose orientation makes it a little bizarre and somewhat difficult to perceive this compared to an airplane that has a very defined nose and would be easy to see this change.

It's fading/flexing out of that anhyzer/turnover angle at a slower rate with higher spin rate(more spin=less precession), while speed slows down below the disc's rated speed moving the center of lift/pressure forward of the aerodynamic center into fade. Remember that discs have a specific "speed" rating so that the turn/glide/fade numbers make sense when you get that disc up to it's speed rating and the center of pressure/lift is at the aerodynamic center of that designed disc. Once the air speed of the disc goes above or below that specific mph speed rating you get more turn or fade as the center of pressure/lift moves behind or forward of the aerodynamic center of the disc respectively.

There is no such thing as a flat release, it's either hyzer or anhyzer. In your case it's always nose up anhyzer on downward trajectory with an airbounce that makes it appear fairly flat and level to you.



TheBeardedFatGuy said:
Is it possible higher glide is detrimental to a higher altitude flight? I've come to believe it's not so much lift that creates the most drag, but giving in to lift. By that I mean, as long as the disc's lift and gravity are more or less in balance, the disc goes forward with minimal drag from these forces, but throw a disc that gets lift that wins out over gravity (disc climbs), and the slowing due to drag is very noticeable.
No, a higher glide rated disc would benefit from higher apex as it can glide out even further as it produces higher lift to drag ratio. Higher glide discs are more nose sensitive and produce more lift, so if the nose is slightly up it will rise quicker early at high speed and produce more lift induced drag which is quadratically increased with speed, so high speed induced drag from lift produces about 1.21 gigawatts of drag at 88mph.

For lift to = gravity that requires constant speed/acceleration/turbo boosters. If lift simply = gravity then you would have a perpetual machine. You could theoretically maintain a constant speed via falling due to gravity, however lift would not = gravity then.

Gravity does not affect drag or horizontal speed, it only accelerates the vertical speed of the whole disc at a constant -9.8m/s. Lift induces drag no matter whether that lift be positive or negative altitude relative to gravity. If the disc is falling slower than gravity, it is still producing lift and inducing drag. It's fairly uncommon for a disc to fall near the same speed as release unless it's thrown from a cliff.

If you throw upward trajectory with the nose down you can get to zero-lift configuration at high speed which = zero lift induced drag when drag would be at the worst. So while gravity may slow the vertical speed down, it gives it more potential energy due to gravity accelerating the fall from a higher altitude. So gravity's effect is enhanced from a higher fall as the lift to drag ratio is enhanced on the downward glide/flex out, and the greatly reduced lift induced drag at high speed helps allow you reach a higher apex further forward with more horizontal speed.

What you want to do is try to balance the difference between the center of pressure/lift to the aerodynamic center of the disc via the angle and speed for as long as possible. Each disc has it's own unique aerodynamic center to which you must find the perfect unique line to put it on according to your ability or "snap". There is no one-size fits all "perfect anhyzer" line for all discs or all people. You may have found your unique perfect line given your disc and level of "snap", however it's pretty worthless to anybody else, or if you want to throw even further.

giphy.gif
 

Latest posts

Top