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Marbling agents

I used a syringe that you would use for injecting marinades in meat/turkeys.. I modified the tip(cut it off) since it had multiple holes..I had dye mixed with and w/o shaving cream... It worked really well drawing the dye in, and applying where you want.. Just ran it under the water to flush, and changing colors was a breeze ...
 
I like the palette you got there man, but agree that the symmetry kinda throws it off. I always had to remind myself when I started to do dyes that I have to take the same amount of time and patience with every step or else you risk compromising the job. You made three beds, why not make three cuts? Keep dyeing, it's all about experimentation!

yeah, my hind sight is always better:doh: I was telling myself this is just a test and the Margarita's were agreeing with me... It was fun:thmbup:
 
???? I never put SC in the bottle, just straight dye.

Well that would be tw difference. I have always mixed the dye with sc prior to adding to the sc bed. I may try just straight dye next time.

I know in some of the earlier parts of this thread, dan Howard was mixing dye and sc together. Don't know what he is doing now.
 
I use a dye/sc mix, and I mix water and SC for the bed. It's what works for me but obviously not the only way to get it done. I hate diluting the dye with SC but just had too many problems with it sinking into the SC bed. When I used straight SC in the bed I had too many bubbles.
 
I use a dye/sc mix, and I mix water and SC for the bed. It's what works for me but obviously not the only way to get it done. I hate diluting the dye with SC but just had too many problems with it sinking into the SC bed. When I used straight SC in the bed I had too many bubbles.

You can stop the sinking of color by doing what I had said about putting lines of color into the bed itself and then laying more color over until you get the right design. The straight SC bed can get bubbles, but I kneed the bed first to fluff up the bed and get rid of the air pockets. Just somethings that has worked for me, but you obviously get great results doing what your doing!
 
My first attempt at this technique. Turned out to have much more color than white space than I expected (in the body) but still like it. Thanks Dan and everyone else that experimented and helped make this a non-disaster for me! You've all done some pretty amazing dyes
 

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I've got a few discs to play around with and the materials to try and marble with. One of the discs is a green champion teebird. Has anyone tried marbling champ plastic or would it be useless?
Aside from that I'm looking to dye a red champ groove and a red z nuke ss.
 
I've got a few discs to play around with and the materials to try and marble with. One of the discs is a green champion teebird. Has anyone tried marbling champ plastic or would it be useless?
Aside from that I'm looking to dye a red champ groove and a red z nuke ss.

I've had good results on champ/clear type plastics.... the key for me is a long dip time (8-12 hours) and concentrated dye. Back up to page 27 for some examples
 
Yea the dip times on any champ/Elite Z, Proton, or any clear plastic takes a lot more concentrated dye and very long set up time. Whatever you do don't pull it early, your going to want to.
 
Will painters tape work as a mask for the SC or do I need to burn a pice of vinyl?
 
Good question. All the marble dyes I've done so far were full disc marbles followed by basic stencils over the top. Not sure if the painters tape would work or not, but as far as that goes I've also seen dyes where the stencil bleeds out even from under vinyl when the marbling is done after the dip. Dan would be the one to ask on this one.
 
Will painters tape work as a mask for the SC or do I need to burn a pice of vinyl?

I wouldn't want to risk it. You let it sit for a long time which gives it a long time to bleed. Not sure if tape would hold up to the prolonged moisture.
 
Packaging tape didn't work for me, when I masked off the glow rim of an Eclipse Ion, so I don't think the painter's tape would hold up either.
 
Well I have the first attempt in the SC right now. I plan on letting it sit for at least 20 hours. I did use the vinyl. I hope it takes well.
 
I know I have read the answer to my question on this thread before but now I can seem to find the answer. Question: If I want to dip dye and SC dye on the same disc which one do I do first and why?

Thanks for the help
 
I always do the image first, then marble because the heat tends to make the marble fade and fuzz out quicker than the alternate method. Vinyl is going to pull out dye out of your disc like silly putty on a newspaper. That's just me though, but I do have some of my first ones that are still looking fresh.
 
So I'm attepmting to do snake skin. If I have blue lines around the scales from dip dying when I put red SC on the Disc will I need to remask my blue lines to make sure the red doesn't affect the color?
Thanks NortherDisc
 

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