I work as a guide/greenskeeper/dude at an "adventure" park which has just installed a DGC. Sweet hole design, sweet layout, but the shule is KILLER!!!. I'm talking like 50' square patches of multiflora, black raspberry, and greenbriar:wall:. The weed whacker just isnt cutting it anymore:thmbup: any suggestions?
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Multiflora rosa
- Thread starter Flip55
- Start date
My experience with multiflora is extensive but successful. You have to double up in layers of denim and carhart wear goggles and take it out at the base using a saw. Then simply drag it out. You d be surprised how fast you can clear a massive patch out when u go directly to the stump. Remain vigilant and stamp it out whenever it sprouts. If there's shade the native flora will take hold and reclaim the environment. Grasses etc.
The key is to commit and take the entire bush out and stop playing around with snippetr
and wackers
The key is to commit and take the entire bush out and stop playing around with snippetr
and wackers
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2009
- Messages
- 6,838
Rent-a-goat.com
biscoe
* Ace Member *
roundup
This.
A college friend actually just did this with a ball golf course that he is superintendent for - said it worked wonders. Here is the article from the paper:
http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/ci_16255041
Granted this is going to cost a few bucks, but well worth it, earth friendly, and friendly on your body.
biscoe
* Ace Member *
roundup is far more than driveway clearer- it will work on multifloral rose. it will also kill pretty much everything else so be responsible with it.
there is another one called banvel that is even better but not as commonly available.
where are you located?- now is a good time to spray if you are far enough south that the plants aren't completely dormant yet- the roundup will sit in the roots all winter and provide more killing punch. (only way to kill wiregrass in my experience other than planting soybeans over it.)
there is another one called banvel that is even better but not as commonly available.
where are you located?- now is a good time to spray if you are far enough south that the plants aren't completely dormant yet- the roundup will sit in the roots all winter and provide more killing punch. (only way to kill wiregrass in my experience other than planting soybeans over it.)
we're in south eastern ohio about 50 miles SE of columbus. and another problem i have with the chemical idea is that our course is very hilly with creek beds all over the place. I'm pretty eco-minded and while not opposed to the idea completely i am nervous about using chems on the course due to run-off
man up cover up and saw that stuff up!
honestly its not as bad as you think....get a partner with a dirt rake-he holds the thorns back as you with your saw go to the trunk and saw it off at the base....when it is cut off he can push the beast away from you....just go hardcore with the goggles and double layers gloves etc....you will be surprised how fast you can clear a patch this way....the bigger problem is where to put it.
Also once you get it out of a wooded or shady area it doesnt come back as well....multiflora seems to grow best on wooded edges or areas that get partial light....once its out of the wooded areas it struggles to come back.
Can't stress the value that a few guys with dirt rakes can do moving these huge thorn bushes around once cut at the base
Also once you get it out of a wooded or shady area it doesnt come back as well....multiflora seems to grow best on wooded edges or areas that get partial light....once its out of the wooded areas it struggles to come back.
Can't stress the value that a few guys with dirt rakes can do moving these huge thorn bushes around once cut at the base
Waiting for Timber to chime in here. Giles Run in Lorton VA was covered with this stuff if I recall.
Brush hog or hedge trimer attachment on a trimmer. Easiest way. Then just mow it up with a lawn mower a couple of times into mulch for the fairway. Done.
agapedad
Eagle Member
Did some digging for your course - didn't know if you wanted it named here or not, so I won't, but if I found the right one, $12 for a round of 18? Wow! I was excited about the possibility until I saw that - oh well.
That being said, I bet you will get lots of tourists down there!
That being said, I bet you will get lots of tourists down there!
yeah I've been trying to change that listing for a while now. I've updated the course info but it apparently wont change for everyone else. the actual price is $5. $12 is ridiculous. But it is 5 which I think is reasonable. once we get the damn stabity plants out it will be much better!
agapedad
Eagle Member
$5 is a huge difference!
biscoe
* Ace Member *
most herbicides (roundup,etc) become inert when they reach the ground. in my experience it is just as easy (probably moreso) to be irresponsible organically as inorganically.
at this time of year in your location i would go with optidiscic's suggestions. if you are ambitious you could even dig the roots out before the ground freezes. good old elbow grease is often the most effective remedy.
(disclaimer- i do this stuff for a living)
yeah the chems will kill the plant but wont clear it off the fairway so i guess ill have to
thanks for the input. and come check out the course and tell us what you think!
thanks for the input. and come check out the course and tell us what you think!
Timber
Birdie Member
Giles Run is mostly Blackberries which have been declared a non-invasive natural habitat buffer.
Seneca Creek was Multiflora rose. The previously mentioned, rake and saw method works well with two people. A third person to drag the debris away can make the work go really quick.
Much of what I cleared at Seneca was done solo with my truck, a mattock and a rope lasso. A 3/8" metal cable, with a loop on both ends, and a chainsaw, would have made the job much easier.:doh:
Back the truck up to the patch of thorns, circle the patch with the rope about two feet above the ground surface. Place the end of the rope through the lasso, pull with the truck until well cinched. Set parking brake, get out and cut as much base as possible. Pull again to cinch tighter, cut remainder of base. The entire mass comes out as a huge 8'x8'x8' ball of nastiness which can be pulled with the truck to your disposal site. Loosening and removing the lasso is a pain but disposal is the hardest part of the process.
We were lucky that a controlled burn, by the fire department, was allowed. A 50' x 100' x 8' pile was compacted in a clearing near the original 10th fairway. It burned in about 90 seconds and melted the snow for 100 yards in all directions.
The solo truck method caused five flat tires in 18 months, two of which were unrepairable sidewall punctures.
In some areas,we wanted to keep small trees which were surrounded by multiflora rose. These areas required walking backwards into the thorns to expose the base so an awkward cut could be completed.
ALWAYS drag the debris 3 x farther from the area than you think you need to. Moving a half dried debris pile is a pain, especially if you have to do it repeatedly. Extracting a disc from a debris pile is really frustrating for players.
Eye Protection, sharp tools, long welders gloves, good boots and cold weather (thick clothes) makes the work much easier and safer. A quilted Dickies full body suit is well worth the investment to keep most (not all) of the thorns out of your nether regions...
De Hermit
Par Member
What kind of native vegetation makes a decent substitute for recently removed multi-flora and other invasive species?
