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Please explain late turn to me

Wow, a lot of good advice, thank you. I don't want to try to throw long forehands yet due to injury potential. I'm practicing very short ones for now.

Disc selection seems to be playing more of a role than I expected, though I'm stoked to experiment with technique. I guess I'll be diverting from my Buzzzes for these shots (I cannot hyzerflip my BuzzzSS yet), which could be fun. I have an Elite-Z Comet that is almost brand new lying around. I'm looking at a Sol [4,5,-3,0] as well. Will give those some effort.
 
Wow, a lot of good advice, thank you. I don't want to try to throw long forehands yet due to injury potential. I'm practicing very short ones for now.

Disc selection seems to be playing more of a role than I expected, though I'm stoked to experiment with technique. I guess I'll be diverting from my Buzzzes for these shots (I cannot hyzerflip my BuzzzSS yet), which could be fun. I have an Elite-Z Comet that is almost brand new lying around. I'm looking at a Sol [4,5,-3,0] as well. Will give those some effort.



It's not a mid but I have a DX Leopard that does nothing but want to go right. I can start that thing almost perpendicular to the ground and it pops right up and starts turning over. I haven't played with it much because it kind of frustrated me but it might be a good disc for the shot you're talking about. If you were local to me I'd give it to you.
 
Disc selection seems to be playing more of a role than I expected, though I'm stoked to experiment with technique. I guess I'll be diverting from my Buzzzes for these shots (I cannot hyzerflip my BuzzzSS yet), which could be fun. I have an Elite-Z Comet that is almost brand new lying around. I'm looking at a Sol [4,5,-3,0] as well. Will give those some effort.

A Sol is probably a good disc to try with. If you don't like your results with that, try to resist the temptation buying a succession of flippy discs on hopes of finding one you really like for that shot.

One nice thing about disc golf, is that it's pretty easy to make friends on the course. Having friends, and being able to ask them if you can take a few huks with one of their discs to see what it does for you, is a great alternative to buying new discs in hopes of it doing what you want.


Obviously purchases aren't just any random molds... we research flight ratings and stuff before buying. But even with that, things don't always go as expected. :\

Being able to fly before you buy is a great way to avoid stocking up on discs you hope you can find a use for "some day."
 
It's not a mid but I have a DX Leopard that does nothing but want to go right. I can start that thing almost perpendicular to the ground and it pops right up and starts turning over. I haven't played with it much because it kind of frustrated me but it might be a good disc for the shot you're talking about. If you were local to me I'd give it to you.

I recently lost a GStar Leopard that did the same. I bought a few Star Leopards before I lost the GStar hoping they'd do the same but in a plastic I like more. They are flippy, but not hyzerflip to moving right throughout throw flippy, which was a disappointment to learn.
 
A Sol is probably a good disc to try with. If you don't like your results with that, try to resist the temptation buying a succession of flippy discs on hopes of finding one you really like for that shot.

One nice thing about disc golf, is that it's pretty easy to make friends on the course. Having friends, and being able to ask them if you can take a few huks with one of their discs to see what it does for you, is a great alternative to buying new discs in hopes of it doing what you want.


Obviously purchases aren't just any random molds... we research flight ratings and stuff before buying. But even with that, things don't always go as expected. :\

Being able to fly before you buy is a great way to avoid stocking up on discs you hope you can find a use for "some day."

Yeah, stick with the Sol for a while. If you don't get it with the Sol, then borrow discs instead of buying them. Great ideas from this guy.
 
Is it possible to throw late turning shots with a low ceiling? Most posts adviced to give it height to work. That's definitely easier. If you have the room then a late turn is not much different than any turning/right-travelling shot, only that the disc is more US and you start on hyzer to have it go straight at first, while flipping up to flat, in order to start the actual right travelling much later.

But if I face a tunnel shot (narrow and limited height) where I want to end up slightly right. How do you approach this?

Seems that's even more touchy. You probably need to take a faster disc for a lower line and get all the angles just right.

The success and error percentages would be to bad for me to go with this shot. I'd rather forehand a straight disc. But if you are on on certain level you probably care for landing angles and there backhand turnover might trump the forehand.

But back to my question: How about low ceilings?

ROLLER!!
 
I traded for an old Elite-X Comet off of the MP a while ago and it does this shot perfectly for me, so much so that I've been trying to find more uses for it. I highly recommend trying to get this type of shot down from a standstill first and then try it with a runup if you can't get it to work standstill. I've also found that beat Rocs or any slower glidey midrange works for this shot.
 
I have 3 discs for which i can throw this shot. Can't throw a forehand with any power. Renegade (came very understable brand new), F7 and Road Runner. I can throw them all flat and they give me a consistent turn right with just a slight fade at the very end. Into the wind I need to start with a hyzer angle and downwind I have to give them a bit of an anny.
 
I have an Elite-Z Comet that is almost brand new lying around. I'm looking at a Sol [4,5,-3,0] as well. Will give those some effort.

The sol is easier to flip. They are both great to learn the nuances of a hyzerflip, but the sol really shines on a low speed hyzerflip to turnover. It's hella touchy in the wind, but on a calm day you'll be shocked with the easy distance followed by a gentle turnover.
If you don't like the bead on the comet, the sol is a good (easier even) disc for this application. For me, the sol complements the zone and buzzz well as they all feel pretty similar in hand.

That said, if you're looking for a touch more distance, consider an archer. If I recall from the ace race, it has a bead but blunter than the one on the comet, and it's very easy to throw. Doesn't take much to put it on a nice hyzerflip with a late turnover.
 
Lately, I've been running into situations where I don't have room to put something on anhyzer the whole way, but I still need to turn the disc over later and finish right.

So far my only way to achieve this somewhat consistently is to throw a very low shot with a BuzzzSS, with just the slightest bit of anny, that finishes slightly right at just beyond 200'.

Not interested in being told to throw forehand just yet, please.

What am I looking for in a disc and a throw to achieve say 250' (already within my midrange distance) that can travel through a tight fairway and turn late/finish right, without being a short baby worm burner? Do I need to beat some DX and flip it? Do I just need to learn more subtle control of anhyzer angles that use every foot of fairway (I can hold a pronounced anny line somewhat reliably, but there's nothing subtle about it)? Do I need to do something to impart more spin without increasing the speed of the throw? Something else?

I don't really understand what to do. This is somewhat baffling to me. I get along okay throwing my mids, but anything I throw straight finishes left. Thanks!



I'm telling ya, listen to the other ray. I throw the Westside Tursas for this very reason... it naturally turns later in the flight than other US mids I've found.
 
I'm telling ya, listen to the other ray. I throw the Westside Tursas for this very reason... it naturally turns later in the flight than other US mids I've found.

I'd love to see some evidence for this. I'm cautiously optimistic, but from my understanding of flight, I find it hard (but not impossible) to believe. It'd take a disc that has ratings of high glide, slightly understable, and no fade. idk though. I've been proven wrong a couple (hundred) times before.
 
I don't really understand what to do. This is somewhat baffling to me. I get along okay throwing my mids, but anything I throw straight finishes left. Thanks!

Find a disc you can turn over fairly easy when released flat. Then, experiment with release angle from flat to severe hyzer and see how it affects the disc during the flight. Typically the more hyzer you release at, the later it should start to turn over. Also, understanding head wind and timing the "waves of wind" can also help you get late turn.

btw.. I'm a huge fan of the Tursas as well, but ugh.. they're never the same disc twice. Reminds me of the King and why I gave up on that disc.
 
learning how to throw sidearm with hyzer is so beneficial and pretty doable/easily learned for shots under 200ft (even with putters). think about how ultimate players can huck 250ft sidearm on a rope with understable lids on the move with defenders in front of them.

but learning the shot you're asking about, late turning shot for a specific shaped line/fairway that requires it is what makes disc golf great (its one of the high level disc golf things that separate just hukking compared to playing golf... knowing a disc, executing proper nose angle, then swing plane/speed/follow though)... because sometimes you need to do that shot over a opposite sided sidearm.

but you will benefit learning that sidearm (even just up to 200ft shots which will cover 90% of what you need and not put you at injury risk from overexertion)... because there are going to be situations/fairways/lines that migh require...... a..... late turnover forehand line :D
 
Most important factors for getting a disc to turn later in the flight:

1) spin rate: so backhands will be much better at this shape than forehand
2) off axis torque: any OAT will cause the disc to turn quicker and fade quicker, so minimizing OAT will lead to shot shapes that turn slower and fade slower.
3) disc speed: of course you will need to get the disc up to high enough speed to get the amount of turn you want.
 
Most important factors for getting a disc to turn later in the flight:

2) off axis torque: any OAT will cause the disc to turn quicker and fade quicker, so minimizing OAT will lead to shot shapes that turn slower and fade slower.
OAT can also be used to your advantage to help shape shots like getting an overstable disc to turnover or getting a disc to turnover into a gap earlier.
 
Bumping this after throwing my new Sol today, to say thanks for the recommendation.


Pros:

Super comfortable in the hand
As advertised, it really does fly on gently-turning lines without much power
Finishes very straight
Early releases will try to fight to flat
Will take a slight hyzer pretty cleanly if thrown with less power

Cons:

Really easy for me to yank this one right into the trees


This one is definitely replacing my BuzzzSS for a while.


Thanks again to everybody who has chimed in here! You've given me so much to think about and work on.
 
Beating in a baseline mid is the way I've gone for this shot. Pro-D Buzzz or XT Atlas have worked well.
 
I carry a beat DX Colt for just this shot. It has the slowest turn ever without having a drop of fade. Honestly in my nearly 30 years of playing I have never had a disc that does this shot like the DX Colt.
 
I use either an Archer for this shot, throwing it flat or slight micro hyzer for full power shots and not having the mold on anhyzer for shots that flip to the left as I have 0 forhand. Disc has been changed to a speed 5 the same as a Stratus which is also a great disc for this flex shot.
 
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