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Long Turnover Throw

hooboy

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Bronze level trusted reviewer
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
24
Location
Alpharetta, GA
While watching the Atlanta Open last weekend at East Roswell Park, I saw the pros throwing long turnover shots (a must at that course from the back tees). The disc flies long and straight, and turns right (RHBH) late in its flight. I'm able to achieve this by throwing a Beast DX at a hyzer angle, with lots of tourque. It starts hyzer, flattens out, and then turns later than if I throw it flat. This disc has been one of my go-tos for anhyzer throws. I can't seem to achieve this flight yet with more stable discs. When I do it right, not only does it turn later in flight, but also flies longer period, than when I'm trying to throw flat. The danger for me is that without enough torque, it ends up as a weak hyzer.

Is this the right technique for these long turnover throws? Any advice on achieving this "pro-type" flight. Their throws were a thing of beauty on some of those holes. I'll take any advice. Thanks.
 
I'm maxing out 350 with the kind of throw you're describing. However I use a roadrunner...that tends to eliminate an early hyzer. There's a thread here somewhere that descibes OAT (off axis torque) and my understanding is that this OAT inhibits discs from doing what they are designed to do. The disc essentially wobbles and creates drag. The drag slows the disc and then proceeds to hyzer/fade. Developing form and a real smooth release is something we all are working on.

How far are you throwing?
 
Also, the shot your describing....a disc nose down/hyzer release flying straight and 'suddenly' flipping to flat and then turning over and glidding is a bit different than an anhyzer.
The anhzer starts more flat ...and travels on a long C-shaped curve.

The discs can land in the same spot, but they take very different paths.
 
There's a thread here somewhere that descibes OAT (off axis torque) and my understanding is that this OAT inhibits discs from doing what they are designed to do.
Actually, the most reliable way to get the shot he's describing (many times called a "roll curve") is to throw a disc that flips to flat and flies straight from a hyzer throw and purposely put some OAT on it to get it to turn over. You can control when and how much the disc turns over by varying the release angle and amount of OAT.

It's easiest to get these flights out of beat, stable fairway driver in low end plastics like a Gazelle, Eagle-X or Cyclone or if you want something that's easier from the start, a Cheetah, Polaris LS or Ace. The Teebird is actually not great for learning this stuff as it doesn't seem to like to turn gradually.

It's also an easy shot to do with a beat, stable mid or putter, but you won't be able to rely on the disc fading back like you can with a fairway driver.
 
Actually, the most reliable way to get the shot he's describing (many times called a "roll curve") is to throw a disc that flips to flat and flies straight from a hyzer throw and purposely put some OAT on it to get it to turn over. You can control when and how much the disc turns over by varying the release angle and amount of OAT.

It's easiest to get these flights out of beat, stable fairway driver in low end plastics like a Gazelle, Eagle-X or Cyclone or if you want something that's easier from the start, a Cheetah, Polaris LS or Ace. The Teebird is actually not great for learning this stuff as it doesn't seem to like to turn gradually.

It's also an easy shot to do with a beat, stable mid or putter, but you won't be able to rely on the disc fading back like you can with a fairway driver.


What he said.....ignore the trifocal behind the curtain. Thanks G.:eek:
 
i like the teebird for these shots started off with a little anny, a wraith works to but i prefer the teebird because i control it where the wraith will do the work for you.
 
I just purchased a champion Beast a couple of months ago and have been enjoying this shot in my arsenal. I have noticed the drag that trifocal mentioned as well. How do I reduce my OAT and get some more distance while throwing the same sho?
 
i like throwing that kinda shot when there is stuff on the left side of the course (rhbh). I use a pro starfire that is nice and beat in so its pretty flippy. On some holes when i put everything into it i can get my star destroyer to turn to the right a little but to the right before it comes back left.
 
I like throwing something a little stable on these lines, that way the disc will fight the anhyzer and stay straight a little longer before taking off to the right
 
The shot described in the first post is a gap in my game right now that I'd like to close. (Roughly, the reverse of a new teebird thrown flat.) For under 270'ish, worn gazelles will take the right line, but pushing out further has been a problem. I've tried a beat leopard but usually either throw it high and wild or have it not hold the late turn after flipping to flat.

Also, there seems to be a tendency for discs to take an edge on landing and roll back and away from the intended line with this throw.

How does one go about putting intentional OAT on the disc to get a long, smooth "anti-fade"?
 
I practice a flick for that shot specifically, but I have a beat up cobra and a road runner in my bag for that shot. They need to up thrown just a little bit higher to keep them from turning over too much and rolling... that's the tricky part!
 
the flip hyzer is one of the prettiest shots in disc golf.

understable disc throw with a hyzer, but in the direction you'd throw it if you were throwing it flast...and yeah...a best will do it for sure.
 
For me a Gateway Sabre or Goldline vision works perfect. Throw it "easy" slight hyzer, they will straighten out and curve to the right nicely (RHBH). Both discs do it right out of the box. no need to season a disc for this shot. Some complain that the Vision is too flippy. My experience is that you just want a soft, controlled throw. No need for too much torque these things glide well. my thoughts anyways.
 
They need to up thrown just a little bit higher to keep them from turning over too much and rolling... that's the tricky part!

LOL Yes, they do. Otherwise they turn into a cut roller and wind up about 100ft from where they should...

But I am really discovering the beauty of a DX Gazelle that is beat to crap...they do this shot naturally.
 
Pro Leopard does it for me really well. I wouldnt go with one that is too beat though. I like to put variations of hyzer angles to control when it is going to cut and if I want it to come back at the end, wind up almost full hyzer.
 

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