Eky8
Eagle Member
This is what I am using right now. http://www.uscutter.com/RTape-Conform-Series-4076-RLA-High-Tack-Application-Tape-with-RLA-100yd
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Noobie Dye Question Thread
- Thread starter agent_peebody
- Start date
Yep.
While DX doesn't dye very well by comparison to other plastics, it CAN be dyed, and probably BEST for an application like this where you're dyeing the entire disc. It might take longer time in the dye, and it might not hold the dye as well as other plastics, but for a full-disc dye to change the color of white plastic, definitely go for it.
I've done a few on DX Glow --- takes more time in the dye and more heat, a substantial amount more, and never really takes a "true" deep color. But if you're going pink, you should be able to get it. Here's a few examples, you can see that they never really get a true "black" despite plenty of time in the dye and much more heat than I would use for other plastics.
That's awesome. Thanks for the replies. The Lennon & Them Crooked Vultures dyes are really nice.
Far better than I was expecting to see from DX plastic, I was always under the impression that it didn't take dye well at all.
Far better than I was expecting to see from DX plastic, I was always under the impression that it didn't take dye well at all.
Thanks for the compliments.
It's not that DX doesn't dye at ALL, just that it doesn't dye WELL, and, sometimes, it actually doesn't dye at all.
DX certainly isn't the ideal choice for dyeing --- Vinyl doesn't stick as well to DX. Dye doesn't take as well to DX, needs more time and almost certainly needs heat. Colors aren't nearly as true with DX. And stamps are often deeper on DX and therefor more difficult to remove. DX will never be as good as higher quality plastics in any dye sense.
But sometimes you get DX plastic in a payout, or in a trade, or in a player's pack, or at a glow event, and what's a dyer gonna do?
I really used to like the feel of DX plastic for putting with, so that Vultures Aviar spent a LONG time in my bag, and just had to be dyed.
When I first started playing, I was told "you HAVE to have a Roc." So I got a Glow DX Roc. Then I found out you could DYE discs. So I dyed it. I think Schleppy has it now, but it was one of my very first dyes.
Doing my first multi color dye. Finished the black, peeled off the next color, am having a hard time getting the gunk left from the vinyl off for the small sections without pulling in black from the lines. I've got this one on hold for 2nd color until I figure this out.
What do you guys use to do this? Any tricks I'm overlooking?
Thanks.
What do you guys use to do this? Any tricks I'm overlooking?
Thanks.
Goo Gone.
Alcohol and acetone can affect the vinyl, and pull the dye you already have on the disc.
Goo Gone and some cotton pads will remove the residual adhesive without pulling the dye or the vinyl, just be deliberate and careful around the edges of your mask.
back2zer0
Newbie
Thanks! Scooped up some transfer tape today and my dyeing immediately improved. No stress at all when I was removing it. Also dramatically reduced bleeds, which was a bit of a problem but was also precipitated by my poor hand cutting.
Any advice on that front? I got a stencil knife (upgraded from a basic x-acto knife), but it either gets dull very quickly or I'm using it incorrectly, because I'm getting a number of tears (rhymes with bears) in the vinyl. I've been trying to go slowly and lift up the knife as little as possible, but I lose a ton of control when I turn the knife.
Do you mean tears when you are weeding? Might be going to lightly. I have cut some entire stencils too lightly and they were complete pains to weed.
Try taking a scrap piece and cutting and weeding a few circles on it. This will help you practice circles as well using the right amount of pressure- need to cut hard enough to get clean through the vinyl so they weed nicely, but not so hard you cut the paper backing.
Try taking a scrap piece and cutting and weeding a few circles on it. This will help you practice circles as well using the right amount of pressure- need to cut hard enough to get clean through the vinyl so they weed nicely, but not so hard you cut the paper backing.
kfeldt
Par Member
Could also be the knife blade getting too dull. I notice that I start having problems with tears if my knife is getting dull and I'm trying not to press too hard, like when cutting directly on the disc.
Keith
Keith
back2zer0
Newbie
I think it's probably the knife getting dull, because I've been going through the backing too. Not intentionally, but trying to control the knife and keep it on the stencil gets me subconsciously pressing down.
Definitely gonna do some practice before I make my next dye.
Thanks for the tips! I'll post some pics of my dyes in one of the other threads so you can see how I'm doing.
Definitely gonna do some practice before I make my next dye.
Thanks for the tips! I'll post some pics of my dyes in one of the other threads so you can see how I'm doing.
Eky8
Eagle Member
When I was hand cutting I would put a new blade in every time I did a new stencil. Bought the blades in bulk so it wasn't too big of a price hit. I always used #11 xacto blades.
He is using a water mix - that is what is in those jars. The dye mix for SC is then the water+dye mix mixed with SC. I don't think SC will store for very long at all, but a water mix will last a looong time.
Does it matter how much water you're mixing with it? I imagine it would, I'm curious if he just dumped one or two packets into that mason jar and just filled it up. I would like to store mine like this since it would be easier to move around and re-use.
I'm also trying to figure out how to make the dye+SC have a nice thickness/smoothness in order for me to easily draw it in with an eye dropper or medicine syringe. It was too fluffy at times and difficult to work with for my first two dye attempts.
roggen is correct, he's just mixing the dye with water, just like the instructions. You can use up to 32 ounces, any bigger than that is probably a very large storage option, and likely too much water for one package of dye. 32oz works great.
I've kept dye-water mixes for YEARS, without loss. There's salt in the dye concentrates, which helps "preserve" the mix, or at least helps keep the water from souring.
Lots of discussion on this in years past when RIT changed their formula. The new RIT formula does NOT NOT NOT dye plastic/discs anymore. That's why we all made the switch to other dye options, like iDye Poly, Pylam, etc, because our hand was forced when RIT's formula changed.
BUT, if you lucked out and got OLD formula RIT, it will definitely work.
I bought a TON of RIT liquid back when I started dyeing, and except for some colors of iDye(especially black), I still use mostly that RIT to this day. I very much prefer the old liquid to the old powder.
