Noobie Question Thread (Dumb Questions answered here)

[freakinwizzz]

why doesn't the pdga ratings update every month?

 

[rd.bittle]

Thanks. What does anyone say about the discs for mid range?

 

[BrotherDave]

Thanks for the help guys. I have spent a while reading this entire thread. I love the advise. Still a noob.
Obviously. I have learned a ton just by reading. It has already shaved throws off of my game. Always looking to learn more. I sidearm mostly but am just working to improve my backhand. Is a well used champ leopard a good disc to throw or should I look for a dx. I like the control I have with my whippet. Good choice? I also love throwing mids for good distance. I have several. Coyote? X2? Rancho roc? In the valley of decision. TIA

Leopards are magical discs and great first drivers. It's an old mold that I believe predates premium plastic, so the most Leopard like Leos are DX and Pro ones. Star and Champ Leos are nice too, but as you might expect don't have quite the glide of base plastic Leos. A Champ/Star Leo and a DX/Pro Leo would actually make a pretty good stable and understable combo. Don't be afraid of understable discs, they force you to throw with clean hyzer which is great for your game.

I'm more or less still a noob myself. But, I don't think anyone's going to insist on a DX leopard over a beat champ leopard.

Why is that?

I don't understand why I can't stop curling my wrist around my disc. I hold my wrist straight on the outside of the disc and as soon as I start my pull through, I wrap my wrist around it.

I tried a few times to hold the disc with my off hand to keep me from rotating the disc inward and now I'm all off balance.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

And I'm guessing the wrist curl is making me throw most things understable.

Your wrist should curl around the disc right before the hit if it's loose enough. This gives you tendon bounce which helps launch the disc out of your hand. If you combine this with wrist extension (actively opening the wrist) then you get "the full hit" and smash drives. Or you can suck like me and just strive for half-hitting b/c your timing and weak wrists always foil you.

Thanks. What does anyone say about the discs for mid range?

Mids for distance. The Buzzz is generally the industry standard. The faster the mid, the more distance potential it should have but if you glide out discs for distance than a beat Rancho Roc or a Coyote will work fine, you just have to throw a little higher. The Warship is also a very long mid, Squalls and Meteors, a flat MD2, QMS, there's a lot of good mids capable of D. But I'd lean towards Buzzz and Warship.

 

[NuNinja]

Whats the difference between all the Innova Pro plastics(Pro/Yeti/KC/JK/R am I missing any?)? Glide? Stiffness? Durability? Etc...

 

[rd.bittle]

Thanks Bro Dave. Which plastic would be best for me on the buzz

 

[AndyJB]

Whats the difference between all the Innova Pro plastics(Pro/Yeti/KC/JK/R am I missing any?)? Glide? Stiffness? Durability? Etc...

Innova swears they fly differently, but in my experience they don't. KC was especially designed by/for Ken Climo himself and, if anything, I've found them to be a bit chalky right out the gate (goes away with time.) I've heard people say they have more glide, but my skill level isn't high enough to notice a difference.

 

[agibson]

why doesn't the pdga ratings update every month?

Good question! I suppose there must be some manual processing required for each release. But, I'm not sure what that might be. I suspect that there might be some for PDGA events that don't have enough propagators. Or, event if the process is automated, I've heard that they take advantage of the time that's passed to add people that weren't propagators at the time, or to allow non-propagators to better approximate propagators, etc.

But, I'm not sure how common that is, or what else might have to be done manually.

 

[_MTL_]

The PDGA ratings require some actual work and beta testing before they process. due to a few factors, they are usually different than the initial rating suggests.

 

[NuNinja]

Innova swears they fly differently, but in my experience they don't. KC was especially designed by/for Ken Climo himself and, if anything, I've found them to be a bit chalky right out the gate (goes away with time.) I've heard people say they have more glide, but my skill level isn't high enough to notice a difference.

Thanks, I knew it was Climo's. I assume Yeti is Jay Reading's and JK is Juliana Korver's. R is rubber-pro?
I know I've read somewhere that R-Pro has more glide than DX, but I don't know if I believe it.

 

[rd.bittle]

I just know that I love my Yeti. Much more sticky than my KC or my dx. The flight pan is somewhat concave. It handles wind as well as my KC did. We okla guys always have to consider wind.

 

[BrotherDave]

Whats the difference between all the Innova Pro plastics(Pro/Yeti/KC/JK/R am I missing any?)? Glide? Stiffness? Durability? Etc...

Short answer is that they are varying blends, usually suited to the tastes of the pro they're named after.
KC Pro Aviars/Rocs are typically very stiff, firm DX feeling. Early KC Pro drivers (like Teebirds) are almost always an early form of champion plastic.
JK Pro Aviars are usually gummy/rubbery soft.
R-pro are a more rubbery blend of Pro, varies wildly in quality (usually okay in putters and mids, drivers like Bosses are usually garbage and become taco'd after hitting the ground a couple of times).
Yeti Aviars are a grippy blend with a flat to concave top.
Pro is just a blend of DX and Star and can vary a bit in quality but is usually pretty good stuff.

Thanks Bro Dave. Which plastic would be best for me on the buzz

A Buzzz historian like Discspeed can better answer this question but they're all pretty good. Z's are your most overstable (some glow Z's start out the most but break in a bit more than regular Z), ESP's are nice and can break into decent understable mids when thrashed, cryztal Z kind of run everywhere, X makes a good stable mid that breaks into a nice understable disc, and D's usually start out kind of overstable but obviously break in to understable eventually since it's the basest plastic.

The Buzzz is a pretty good disc in any plastic but it seems like most people like Z and that Cryztal Z is the most polarizing, some love them and some don't think they fly quite like a Buzzz should.

If I missed anything, feel free to chime in.

 

[rd.bittle]

Thanks. My nephew has a well beat ESP buzzz that he wants to trade me for something faster. I may jump on that. Anything to compliment my leopard dx/champ combo pack.

 

[NuNinja]

Short answer is that they are varying blends, usually suited to the tastes of the pro they're named after.
KC Pro Aviars/Rocs are typically very stiff, firm DX feeling. Early KC Pro drivers (like Teebirds) are almost always an early form of champion plastic.
JK Pro Aviars are usually gummy/rubbery soft.
R-pro are a more rubbery blend of Pro, varies wildly in quality (usually okay in putters and mids, drivers like Bosses are usually garbage and become taco'd after hitting the ground a couple of times).
Yeti Aviars are a grippy blend with a flat to concave top.
Pro is just a blend of DX and Star and can vary a bit in quality but is usually pretty good stuff.

Thanks for the info.
I guess all you have to do is avoid hitting the ground.

I thought Star was a blend of Champ/Pro?

 

[captain jack]

Pro is just a blend of DX and Star and can vary a bit in quality but is usually pretty good stuff.

:scratch's head:

So then Innova invented time travel, because Star plastic came out years after Pro did.

 

[BrotherDave]

Thanks for the info.
I guess all you have to do is avoid hitting the ground.

I thought Star was a blend of Champ/Pro?

After some lazy research I can't say anything for certain. There is a very high possibility that I'm pulling this straight from my keister but I want to say that there is DX plastic and Champ plastic, with both Pro and Star being blends of the two. Pro is more DX than Champ and Star is more Champ than DX. I would take all this with a huge grain of salt.

I know there was DX more or less first, then they made CE and Champ came along to replace CE b/c the plastic they used for it was no longer available. Then they started making the Pro and later Star came last out of the big 4.

So then Innova invented time travel, because Star plastic came out years after Pro did.

Yeah, I misspoke if what I said right above is correct. I honestly can't remember.

 

[captain jack]

Damn ! I was hopin' for the whole time travel thing.

 

[captain jack]

I was tryin' to figure out which pic of Kate Upton I was gonna put on my hoverboard.

 

[BrotherDave]

After some intensive, somewhat less lazy research I can tell you: Star is an ever changing blend more or less, Pro is a blend, DX is a grippy plastic of some sort and Champ is a very durable, dense plastic of another sort. I assume some of the "Champ" plastic goes into Star b/c of the "Champy-Star" discs you see here and there. Pro and Star are really similar except Star has noticeably more "Champ" style plastic in it to make it more durable and wear less. That's all I can really tell you.

Oh, and if you ever see SE plastic discs, they were different test blends before they settled on a formula for Star. If anybody asks, the reason why different runs of plastic differ (i.e. variations in DX plastic runs ) is because disc manufactures buy their plastic pellets in bulk rather than have a specific plastic made for them. This is part of the reason why CE no longer exists, the pellets weren't available to buy. So after they run out of supply they order some more and the new stuff inevitably is different a bit.

BroD:<------------:Will never get the time back he spent researching what goes into making a golf disc.

If you're really bored, watch the "amazing" quality control of Gateway making discs. :|

 

[NuNinja]

Well Champ is a Polyurethane blend...

 

[blammo]

What is a hyzer spike? I know what hyzer and anhyzer mean, but not in conjunction with spiking a disc...