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Noobie Question Thread (Dumb Questions answered here)

Ok thanks. That chart is a little easier to read than Joes Universal chart. I'm trying to keep all my discs 9 speed or under. But I use my Avenger for tomahawks and overstable shots here or there.
So according to this chart the Avenger is 10 5 0 3.
 
not sure for how long, but people do whatever they want with the baskets.

a MD guy won a few years ago and donated his 9 to patapsco valley state park. other players raised the money for 9 more and now the course has a permanent set in the C pins. made a great course even better and now you can play the 'green monster' 365 days a year. thanks shawn (and dga)!
Cool :thmbup:
I hope this years go to make some sweet glow courses.
 
Ok thanks. That chart is a little easier to read than Joes Universal chart. I'm trying to keep all my discs 9 speed or under. But I use my Avenger for tomahawks and overstable shots here or there.
So according to this chart the Avenger is 10 5 0 3.

Never rely on just one chart, because none of them are totally accurate for all discs, and each of them are compiled by different human beings so they reflect that in some ways. I like Altitude's Innovaesque setup and refer to it often, but I think Joe's is more accurate overall. Once you get to know the Joe's system and get experience with enough discs to look them up and compare them on that chart, it really is a better system, imo. But when you're interested in an unfamiliar disc, do always look it up on both charts - if there's a discrepancy then you go from there with what your experience with your discs/each chart tells you. Marshall Street's chart is neat, too, but it has too many errors and odd inconsistencies for me to rely on it.

For the Lat discs, the Pain will sit between the Wasp and Hornet...very good hss and carry, a dependable but not too heavy fade, excellent in the wind. I prefer it in Opto but GL is still nice and stable.

Fuse doesn't have a direct comparison. If you want it for easy annys and flat turns, you'll probably like it a lot more than the Meteor. Fuses vary a bit, so look up other threads for discussions and experience. You can pick a Fuse that's really flippy almost like a Stratus, or you can get one that's more stable and great for lazer straight flights (those will still hold anny lines beautifully but will be harder to flip into flat turns).

Cores vary, too, but are closer to Buzz SS than a regular Buzz. Really an awesome straight mid. Some can be/beat in pretty flippy to where they overlap with a Fuse, some are more stable, but all have a little less hss than the Buzz...most will still hold a beautiful hyzer line unless the wind is pretty strong. I think that makes them more versatile, but it can be a disadvantage for some depending on throwing style, power, etc. The Warship is closer to a Buzz, imo, and still has all the great qualities of the famous Swede plastic and glide.
 
Are drop zones in OB areas legit? Someone told me you can't play from an OB area including any drop zones
 
I know you cant rely on one rating system. I even disagree with the listing for the Vision. It says its 8 6 0 4. According to lat 64's website its supposed to be 8 6 -1 2. I have one in Opto and based on my experience its understable/stable. I find it to be similar to my Champion Sidewinder. Thats why I bought it in the first place, I was wanting something comparable to a sidewinder. Now granted it could be overstable in say Gold Line, but from what I have been able to do with it I have found it to be very similar to my Sidewinder, but with a touch more glide. I don't know.

Anyway I'm not looking to replace my Wasp or buzzz, but the meteor might be on the chopping block. I have a friend that has the Fuse, Core, Pain all in gold line and he swears by them. I have only thrown his Fuse once, and it was understable for me that one time, and I really liked it so that might be my next purchase.
 
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Are drop zones in OB areas legit? Someone told me you can't play from an OB area including any drop zones

Then....it wouldn't be OB! You can't have any supporting point OB when you release, that's why you can mark your lie one meter perpindicular to the OB line so you can stand in bounds. If the TD marks the drop zone there, then it must be OK. Just from the sound of this, maybe not the best place to put the DZ. It should be right next to a mandatory marker. If you miss a mando, shoot from right there in the DZ. Is he marking a DZ for an OB? If so, completely unecessary and confusing, because you throw from where you last were IB (or optional from the last place you threw), and mark directly in bounds from that point you went OB.
 
So am I correct when I read the Joes Universal flight chart, that the HSS is the turn of a disc and the LSS is the fade? Also is the Power the speed of the disc? and the range is the glide?
 
Then....it wouldn't be OB! You can't have any supporting point OB when you release, that's why you can mark your lie one meter perpindicular to the OB line so you can stand in bounds. If the TD marks the drop zone there, then it must be OK. Just from the sound of this, maybe not the best place to put the DZ. It should be right next to a mandatory marker. If you miss a mando, shoot from right there in the DZ. Is he marking a DZ for an OB? If so, completely unecessary and confusing, because you throw from where you last were IB (or optional from the last place you threw), and mark directly in bounds from that point you went OB.

It's like a made up island that you have to reach to not be OB off the tee. If you don't make it, the plan is to have a drop zone in the OB area somewhere.
 
It's like a made up island that you have to reach to not be OB off the tee. If you don't make it, the plan is to have a drop zone in the OB area somewhere.

Yep there is something identical to this at my course. The drop zone is about halfway between the tee and the hole. It's right in the middle of OB. The picture is not on the course but it is hole 20.
 
So am I correct when I read the Joes Universal flight chart, that the HSS is the turn of a disc and the LSS is the fade? Also is the Power the speed of the disc? and the range is the glide?

HSS is resistance to turn...but yeah, it correlates to how much turn a disc might have in the first portion of flight. Keep in mind that the ratings are based on flat throws with relatively clean form, no wind, etc. Joe's is a little more real-human accurate, imo. LSS is fade, yes, and of course that can vary depending on the snap and the height. Power is the speed (Innova) that the disc requires in order to exhibit the flight qualities you see in the ratings...more or less power changes those ratings, sometimes considerably so. Range on Joe's chart is distance, and you'll notice that they have discs arranged by similarity in that regard, not necessarily by the speed/power rating. That's where Joe's gets a little complex and requires some study/experience to really get it...but it's more accurate and realistic than the Innova/Altitude style.

Glide is mis-used by a lot of people. It's really the tendency for the disc to keep moving forward while slowing down/fading. There's a complex relationship with loft, but a lot of people just equate it with loft, which isn't correct. It gets interesting when you start to analyze discs of varying glide ratings but that also have heavy fade ratings, and what that means for the flight characteristics.
 
Ok thanks. That chart is a little easier to read than Joes Universal chart. I'm trying to keep all my discs 9 speed or under. But I use my Avenger for tomahawks and overstable shots here or there.
So according to this chart the Avenger is 10 5 0 3.

Avenger ss is listed as a ten speed and in my experience it has been the easiest driver to throw and i'd recommend any new player use one. I've had more trouble getting more overstable discs to consistently fly the way i want like the firebird (9 speed) and even the teebird.

I have a question regarding hyzer flips. I have a general idea what they are exactly but how are they achieved? What should one be thinking aouut to practice hyzer flips?
 
I don't have any problems getting my tee birds to fly the way they are supposed to. I find them to be a very versatile disc for me. I just know that my avenger is a great overhand/tomahawk disc for me. However I don't think I have the arm speed to throw the avenger rhbh for much distance. I would say that i can get my TEEBIRD very close, within 10-15 foot of the avenger. I don't want to eliminate the avenger from my bag, and I have tried a firebird a couple of times, but that didn't produce much more than the avenger. I guess my next question would be what do you all recommend as an overstable driver that is in the 7-9 speed range? I guess I could always field test a DX banshee that I have.

Another question, yes I know I'm full of them but I'm trying to soak it all in, is a saint an overstable driver? I threw one yesterday and liked the way it felt in my hand. I threw is on a big hyzer angle so that wasn't a real good indicator.

Thanks again for all the solid info.
 
I have a question regarding hyzer flips. I have a general idea what they are exactly but how are they achieved? What should one be thinking aouut to practice hyzer flips?

Get a DX Stingray. Practice throwing it at a slight hyzer angle with a decent amount of snap. It will flip flat and then turn right before finishing with a slight fade. Once you get the hang of it with the Stingray you can move up to a Leopard and then a RoadRunner etc. It is a beautiful shot. Once I figured out how to do it, I was able to cut out half the forehand shots I was taking. Enjoy.
 
I have a saint... it's labeled as an overstable control driver but to be honest even my weak bh throws it doesn't seem very overstable at all. teebird is more os i think?
 
Get a DX Stingray. Practice throwing it at a slight hyzer angle with a decent amount of snap. It will flip flat and then turn right before finishing with a slight fade. Once you get the hang of it with the Stingray you can move up to a Leopard and then a RoadRunner etc. It is a beautiful shot. Once I figured out how to do it, I was able to cut out half the forehand shots I was taking. Enjoy.

Thanks... why do you recommend a dx stingray opposed to other mids. i have a couple buzzz' in diff weights and plastics and a buzzz ss along with an ontario roc. Would a dx stingray be a better disc than these for this?
 
Thanks... why do you recommend a dx stingray opposed to other mids. i have a couple buzzz' in diff weights and plastics and a buzzz ss along with an ontario roc. Would a dx stingray be a better disc than these for this?

Stringrays, and the other discs I mentioned are understable. Buzz's and Rocs are great discs which are designed to keep the angle of release. Thats not to say you can't hyzer-flip a Roc, it just requires a lot of arm speed or a seriously beat-up disc. I actually carry 3 Rocs in my bag, but when the shot calls for a hyzer-flip it's Stingray, Leo, RR, Vulcan depending on the distance needed. DX Stingrays are cheap. Get one, take it out a field, and you'll be hyzer-flipping by the end of the day.
 
Is your elbow supposed to stay at least somewhat bent while throwing? I am particularly talking about when releasing the disc/follow through. When I started playing, my arm would straighten out completely, but now every time I straighten my arm my elbow pops/cracks, leading me to believe I am doing something wrong.
 
Sounds like strong arming. Open your hips more in the hit/follow through. To answer your question, yes, your arm should be straight after the release. Best thing to do would be take a video of you throwing and put in in the technique thread.
 

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