[Discmania] Power Driver Freak PEEDEE Thread

[Kp0c]

I don't know about the first one,but the P-PD for me turned over way too much at first. I had to flex it back with my hands to get it to fly straight for me. It was still very touchy after that,that's why I don't use the P-PD anymore.

That is surprising. I don't have much power, but I was under the impression that all PD were stable to overstable when new. Even p-PD seems to have a good amount stability when new (although less so than an s-pd or c-pd).
That is my experience.

 

[Flick Maniac]

I think that must be a case of individual disc. You could compare it side to side with another PD and see where the PLH sits at.

Especially at max weight, a brand new P-PD should not be too understable for most throwers with medium power. Sure it will beat in faster, but the mold itself is plenty stable. Mere plastic difference in stability, if other variables are the same (PLH, dome, weight) should not make a P-PD flippy altogether. Especially the newer variants of P-line plastic which is almost as hard and shiny as S-line.

If you can find a older, softer mix of P-line, you can beat it into very straight and nice anhyzer disc in not too much time.

 

[mutteriwiritys]

I'm just planning to buy PD in all different plastics for my distance drivers (yes, I don't have any distance drivers atm), P for understable, s for stable and c for overstable.

Do you guys think it's clever at all?

 

[mattc]

I'm just planning to buy PD in all different plastics for my distance drivers (yes, I don't have any distance drivers atm), P for understable, s for stable and c for overstable.

Do you guys think it's clever at all?

If you throw <400' I would get a saint pro, saint , and a fury instead
If you throw >400' PDs would be a good plan, I guess

 

[rallyguy]

You may want to grab an actual under stable driver until the P line beats in a bit. Fresh it will fly like your S line.

I have those three discs in my bag and even with a fairly beat up P line I still have an under stable driver for shots that go need to to right

 

[mutteriwiritys]

Yeah I have the S-FD currently for anhyzer shots but I don't know if I should buy a faster driver for those shots too

 

[Kodachrome]

I'm just planning to buy PD in all different plastics for my distance drivers (yes, I don't have any distance drivers atm), P for understable, s for stable and c for overstable.

Do you guys think it's clever at all?

it's what i'm doing, and i have no problems with it whatsoever.

i had a flippy out of the box 168g P-PD that i lost, which made me sad. so then i started using my other 175g and beating it in; now it bombs with ease. usually 360 without any fuss and 400-415 if i get hold of it. my 168 S-line handles moderate wind with no problem, goes straight with fade out to 360 pretty much every time in calm conditions. really point and shoot. my c-line straight up just does not give a ****. i've been using these and no other distance drivers or fairways except for a banshee. haven't missed them, either, but i will likely be adding a rival back to the bag again.

 

[DannyThunders]

What does the ideal PD look like? Domey ? FAF? high plh? low plh?

 

[Jozzz]

My preference is S-Line, high PLH (compared to the shield stamps - although they super bomb), and slight dome.

 

[tbird888]

My preference is S-Line, high PLH (compared to the shield stamps - although they super bomb), and slight dome.

This. They start beefy but break into perfection.

 

[Kodachrome]

depends on what you want them for. i'll post pics and measurements (using dimes, nickels and quarters, haha) of each of mine and tell you how they act.

 

[Kodachrome]

These measurements are to the best of my ability/eyesight.

SPD: 168g
CPD: 175g
PPD: 175g

PLH:

CPD, 5-6/32" (over 5, under 6) or 4-4.75 mm
SPD, 5-6/32" (same) or 4-4.75 mm
PPD, 4/32" or 3.175 mm

LEFT: PPD
RIGHT: CPD

LEFT: 168g SPD RIGHT: 175 CPD



Dome, as measured with disc upside down, from flat surface to the underside of the rim, or PL:

SPD, 13/32" or 10.3 mm
CPD, 14-15/32" (somewhere between again) or 11.1-11.9 mm
PPD, 16/32" or 12.7 mm

LEFT: PPD
RIGHT: CPD

LEFT: PPD
RIGHT: SPD

LEFT: SPD
RIGHT: CPD

Here is how they fly:

CPD is beefcakes, through and through, yet workable. i keep it fresh and don't throw it much at all. can throw big old flex shots to 360, maybe 400 if i'm VERY lucky. otherwise this sucker is going left. i was throwing it in 25-30mph winds and it did not care. it still goes straight quite a way before the fade, but it IS going to fade and it will NOT turn.

SPD is somewhat overstable. when it was fresh, it was overstable and i was lucky to hit 360. now it's developing the tiiiiiiiiiiniest hint of turn, but otherwise this thing is pew pew lasers. straight, then fade, 330-360 all day even on a hyzer it will push that far. if i flex it, i can get some more. fade is starting to lose its "dump" and pushing forward now that i've beaten it in. fights a headwind pretty darn well and i use it regularly when i encounter them. i never worry about it; the CPD is just for hurricane winds. when this beats in i will be getting a new one.

PPD: domiest of them all, my favorite right now. still not really domey, just compared to the others. it had a little bit of turn out of the box and some good tree whacks have made it eminently workable. my flippy yellow one that i lost had an even lower PLH than this one. gets 360 regularly; hit 400-430 a couple times today with it while field throwing. can be hyzerflipped for a laser shot or thrown flat and higher for full flight. will not turn and burn unless you throw it flat and stupidly low. fights mild winds as well.


i love them all, but the SPD has proven most difficult to commit to. i have to make a conscious effort to use it in order to break it in as right now the PPD gets most of the work. fall has helped; the winds pick up and i need something slightly OS even in the woods as the foliage that used to block the wind is now all over the ground. it's been very handy. i imagine that once it is finally in its sweet spot it will be as T says, probably just like my PPD right now. once my PPD is flippy and my S is seasoned, it will be time for a new S and i will roll with C, S, S, P.

i was wondering why i even bothered with the S at first since my PPD was a semi-wind fighter and great out of the box, but now i get it.

make sure you check the parting line and rim underneath as well. my first S-line had a slanted rim that was uncomfortable for me and threw identically to my PPD as it is right now. decent amount of turn.

 

[Kodachrome]

the thought occurred to me that the PLH may have influenced my measurements for the dome so i also did the quarter test.

SPD: 9 quarters lifted the disc off the table by a fair amount. 8 was pressed against the plate, almost.
CPD: 9 quarters, but didn't lift as much.
PPD: 10 quarters, barely off the table.

so basically, none of these are super domey. just a nice and gradual, normal one. a PPD that is domey might be money, though. can't say i know.

 

[Crazy Runner Guy]

when it was fresh, it was overstable and i was lucky to hit 360. now it's developing the tiiiiiiiiiiniest hint of turn, but otherwise this thing is pew pew lasers.

Almost died laughing, mostly because I understand exactly what you're describing.

 

[Uncle Matt]

That is surprising. I don't have much power, but I was under the impression that all PD were stable to overstable when new. Even p-PD seems to have a good amount stability when new (although less so than an s-pd or c-pd).
That is my experience.

Sorry about that man.

I meant to say after it broke in it got real flippy on me.

Even wind would carry it away. It was that bad.

 

[Flick Maniac]

Kodachrome, your setup is just as mine, except that I use a 12x Firebird instead of C-PD. I have a P-PD (still beating), a beat FR S-PD and a fresh JH S-PD that is stable enough for my medium arm. I try not to have too many molds in order to minimize the disc lottery when stepping up to my mark, so a C-PD in between the stable S-PD and FB is too small a difference to be useful. Also, the C-PD sometimes slipped out too early because of the plastic. Also IMO, massive stability is not the PD's most valued trait to begin with.

I also get what you say about that perfect P-PD. I used to have one (actually those dirty and beat white PDs look very tasty!) that was straight as an arrow. No turn unless thrown with dirty technique, would hold perfectly straight for miles, and only a very late small fade. I lost it in an unintentional anhyzer accident into a thicket. Luckily I got one replacement of the same soft P plastic (European Open 2009) but it still needs to wear in.

 

[dehaas]

So with it being winter time why don't we do a softer p pd request thread?

 

[ian.]

any stability difference in the older flexy p-line vs the stiff ones?

 

[dehaas]

I don't care for the stiff ones at all, but the few that Ive thrown didn't seem as HSS out of the box. Others might be a better source of flight info, I just prefer the softer plastic strictly from a feel standpoint.

I'd pay a couple of bucks extra for a batch of shield stamped soft p pds.

 

[Kodachrome]

the PPD i lost was very stiff and had more turn out of the box than my current, somewhat-seasoned PPD as it throws right now. i could turn it over too far and cut roll it on accident if i screwed up. really liked it actually.

can't say it's a rule, but there you go.