Forehand throws must suck

[Steady 26542]

I think that acceleration plays the biggest part in a clean release. The quicker the wrist flick the more the fingers are separated by the disc in distance and the time it takes for the fingers to return to so tight that they would add drag to the disc. Quick flick may very well allow the disc to be out of reach of the fingers before they become a nuisance by hitting each other after the disc is already gone.

I'd like to know if you can throw with no wobble with drivers now that you have a quicker wrist flick. And if you can maintain as quick a wrist flick as with mids with fairway drivers and are Orions as easy as your fairway drivers?

For me, keeping the thumb close to the edge of the disc helps reduce wobble. Also, the better/quicker the wrist flick the less wobble as well. The key is to get maximum wrist flick along with maximum power. I don't seem to be able to do both. If I flick it great then I didn't get enough power and vice versa. Getting the perfect combination of flick quickness and power is the quest. I'm sure that is what Mark Ellis meant by it taking a few years to get it all down. I'm sure it took him a few years to hit 400'. At least I'm having fun practicing. I've hit 300'!!

I don't flick the mids. I tried a QJLS and it worked pretty good. The best drives were with the SOLF's. I'm sure it's because they are the most forgiving.

 

[JR]

I think that acceleration plays the biggest part in a clean release. The quicker the wrist flick the more the fingers are separated by the disc in distance and the time it takes for the fingers to return to so tight that they would add drag to the disc. Quick flick may very well allow the disc to be out of reach of the fingers before they become a nuisance by hitting each other after the disc is already gone.

I'd like to know if you can throw with no wobble with drivers now that you have a quicker wrist flick. And if you can maintain as quick a wrist flick as with mids with fairway drivers and are Orions as easy as your fairway drivers?

For me, keeping the thumb close to the edge of the disc helps reduce wobble. Also, the better/quicker the wrist flick the less wobble as well. The key is to get maximum wrist flick along with maximum power. I don't seem to be able to do both. If I flick it great then I didn't get enough power and vice versa. Getting the perfect combination of flick quickness and power is the quest. I'm sure that is what Mark Ellis meant by it taking a few years to get it all down. I'm sure it took him a few years to hit 400'. At least I'm having fun practicing. I've hit 300'!!

I don't flick the mids. I tried a QJLS and it worked pretty good. The best drives were with the SOLF's. I'm sure it's because they are the most forgiving.

Hope you won't get slip outs in rain and cold weather with the rim grip position.

SOLFs have the most high speed stability out of those and it's natural for them to fly straightest when speed/spin ratio is low on spin. I've noticed a lot of improvement in my wrist flicking speed and less in BH wrist snap the last year. It'll take a while to develop properly. It's a no brainer to get much more arm speed than what people can usually compensate for with added flick.

Destroyers are wicked long FH discs for me. I once threw a spike FH to avoid a tree and it went 310' apexing at around 40'. My shoulder isn't in that great a shape after a training mishap so I don't know how far I can flick now. Can't train only use on holes that demand it.

300' is about what one needs for most throws anyway so I think you're well on you way and could concentrate on accuracy more than distance. BH is for big D. FH is for getting out of trouble and tricky holes. 300' is plenty for getting out of trouble and can reach most pins on L>R holes.