Throwing Slower vs Lower Speed Disc

[Boss Man]

Since DG outing's have been sparce with the weather, I've been thinking a lot about my throws, discs and what all I keep in my bag over the winter. I've become increasingly conflicted about what method to use on throwing less distance (yea, I did say less). To start off, I typically throw a Teebird (speed 7) pretty much around 300' consistently. The problem I've noticed is several courses around me have holes that are significantly shorter and end up overthrowing. My dilemma is two parts (and is probably going to be self explanatory, but typing out helps all the same) but basically: for throws with less distance for shorter holes, is it better to simply pull back on my throwing power? or would it be more beneficial to consider a slower speed disc that is made for those mid-length holes.

Personally I see positives and negatives to both sides hence my indecision.
For throwing with less power: Makes sense, less power = less distance but when I try to throw with less power I feel like it messes with my throwing motion (which isn't anything spectacular and may be why) and leads to more inaccurate throws. Second, if I throw a disc that's meant for a higher speed throw at a speed less than it's design, its flight characteristics should change accordingly (less turn, quicker to start fading left [RHBH]) and could cause errant throws just the same.

For Lower speed discs it's almost the same scenario but in an opposite manner. Normal throwing speed/power (as if I was throwing a driver), doesn't mess up my motion. However, throwing a Gator (speed 5) or other mid-range speed disc with the same power as a Teebird makes me worry that the disc will again have altered flight characteristics (yes Gator's are stupid stable but if it's something more understable then....yikes). So there's my problem. Obvious answer is to learn to throw a slower speed disc without messing up my throwing motion (I did say this is probably a self-explanatory fix right?). So maybe a better question is how to throw slower/less power without messing up the throwing motion.

Sorry for the rant, wanted to get everything out there. 3 months is a long time to simply "think" about my game without putting it into practice.

 

[mark996]

Find a midrange (roc) that will handle your arm, and throw it on those holes. Typically anything 200-250 I'm throwing midrange discs unless it's a dogleg or needs a big skip. From there I'm going fairways/teebird/thunderbird up to about 350, from there I'm going with my main d discs, destroyers, Daedalus, or Vulcan. You can also try straighter fairways, Discmanias FD is a very straight disc, as well as millennium JLS. That's what has worked for me. I've been forcing myself to throw mid ranges and putters on more and more holes instead of trying to slow down a disc that has no business to be thrown on a 250 ft hole.

 

[rocthecourse]

I generally throw the slowest disc that will reach the basket, but not all the time.

For Lower speed discs it's almost the same scenario but in an opposite manner. Normal throwing speed/power (as if I was throwing a driver), doesn't mess up my motion. However, throwing a Gator (speed 5) or other mid-range speed disc with the same power as a Teebird makes me worry that the disc will again have altered flight characteristics

Not really something you need to worry about, just practice using all your discs at different power levels and learn how they fly. Then you just pick the disc you are most confident you can throw to hit the line.

 

[RFrance]

I was practicing short approaches today in the 150 range with speed 2-4 discs. Recently I've found using 80-90 power with these discs gives me more accuracy and more predictable flight instead of trying to power down with mids. For me it also has the advantage of improving my form for mids and drivers where I can now feel the elbow extension, pulling around the nose, and grip easier with the slower speed discs (which is why it is stressed so much by those who know on here :doh.

 

[Putt for D'oh]

Throw slower discs. Roc or a Buzzz or in that neighborhood.

First three discs i bought last July was a Katana a Roc and an Aviar. I almost never threw the rock. I drove ever hole with the katana. 189' all the way to 400' holes I was grabbing the katana. Then on upshots like 75' I felt I knew how the katana felt so I threw it there as well.

I started watching some videos and getting a bit of distance. I overthrew a downhill 285' hole by who knows how far. Losing that disc was the best thing that could have happened to my game.

I started throwing slower discs and getting longer. Lurking on this site and overthrowing more holes with fairways.
Now I drive with mids and putters and fairways and only occasionally a distance driver.
I'm still a huge work in progress but having 7 or 9 totally different flying discs in my bag I feel comfortable throwing whenever vs driving with that one disc I trusted and then grabbing that disc when it wasn't called for because of reasons I couldn't explain and frankly that handcuffs one's game.

Now I pick the disc for the shot, which is more than distance but a hole or mando or uphill or ....

 

[Consult20]

...just practice using all your discs at different power levels and learn how they fly. Then you just pick the disc you are most confident you can throw to hit the line.

^ This absolutely. Not all 150-200' shots are wide open straight at the basket. Being able to get close from that distance from any lie is the benefit of knowing how all your discs fly/skip/slide. McBeth is a master at it.

 

[DiscFifty]

Throwing higher speed discs shorter distances result in quicker fade so I only use those discs when I need a fairly large skip on a short throw. Otherwise like others, it's putters from 0-200, mids 200-250+.

 

[youdidwell]

Obvious answer is to learn to throw a slower speed disc without messing up my throwing motion (I did say this is probably a self-explanatory fix right?). So maybe a better question is how to throw slower/less power without messing up the throwing motion.

Not an expert but maybe a different grip would help? If you're throwing drivers with a power grip, try throwing mids/putters with a fan grip.

 

[DiscinFiend]

I choose whichever disc I can comfortably throw at around 80% power & still reach my intended target. The only exceptions are when I'm looking for a big skip with a driver, on low ceiling shots & when going for max distance. I don't like powering down discs unless it's one of the situations I mentioned. I feel I get the most consistent results with this method. I think powering down discs tends to change the speed of peoples run ups, which leads to more timing issues. I have a slow run up so this is less of an issue for me, but I see it a lot with my friends/local guys. I agree that you should throw the slowest disc you can on any given shot...just as long as you don't have to throw that disc at 100% power to get to your target.

 

[RobA]

Since DG outing's have been sparce with the weather, I've been thinking a lot about my throws, discs and what all I keep in my bag over the winter. I've become increasingly conflicted about what method to use on throwing less distance (yea, I did say less). To start off, I typically throw a Teebird (speed 7) pretty much around 300' consistently. The problem I've noticed is several courses around me have holes that are significantly shorter and end up overthrowing. My dilemma is two parts (and is probably going to be self explanatory, but typing out helps all the same) but basically: for throws with less distance for shorter holes, is it better to simply pull back on my throwing power? or would it be more beneficial to consider a slower speed disc that is made for those mid-length holes.

Personally I see positives and negatives to both sides hence my indecision.
For throwing with less power: Makes sense, less power = less distance but when I try to throw with less power I feel like it messes with my throwing motion (which isn't anything spectacular and may be why) and leads to more inaccurate throws. Second, if I throw a disc that's meant for a higher speed throw at a speed less than it's design, its flight characteristics should change accordingly (less turn, quicker to start fading left [RHBH]) and could cause errant throws just the same.

For Lower speed discs it's almost the same scenario but in an opposite manner. Normal throwing speed/power (as if I was throwing a driver), doesn't mess up my motion. However, throwing a Gator (speed 5) or other mid-range speed disc with the same power as a Teebird makes me worry that the disc will again have altered flight characteristics (yes Gator's are stupid stable but if it's something more understable then....yikes). So there's my problem. Obvious answer is to learn to throw a slower speed disc without messing up my throwing motion (I did say this is probably a self-explanatory fix right?). So maybe a better question is how to throw slower/less power without messing up the throwing motion.

Sorry for the rant, wanted to get everything out there. 3 months is a long time to simply "think" about my game without putting it into practice.

Throwing with less power will likely make the disc fade sooner, throwing a mid at same power will result in a straighter shot. A lot depends on the shape of the shot you want to throw and also wind conditions.

 

[NathanNoodleArm]

Take a stack of midrange discs to a football field and throw them all winter. Your game will thank you.

 

[bankiebomber]

just practice using all your discs at different power levels and learn how they fly. Then you just pick the disc you are most confident you can throw to hit the line.

As has been said. THIS! Take your bag to a field and throw every disc the same way a few times (full power, half power, stand still, flex, etc). Not only will you learn what your discs are capable of (or not) you will learn a new shot with a disc you never considered before.

 

[slowplastic]

I don't like throwing under 60-70% power because it affects form consistency, as you have said. So if I want to throw shorter distances, either throw a slower disc or a more OS disc (slower OS discs still won't have massive fade/skip, but the inherent fade will prevent from gliding well past the target). If you're only throwing a 70% power shot with a straight mid or putter you shouldn't worry about yanking or flipping it over. If you have to throw it at 90% and worry about it getting touchy then maybe go up a speed class and throw 80%, etc.

Also I found that as I gained a bit of distance I could throw faster discs shorter distances if I needed to, because I could throw them at a bit lower power than before while still getting them up to speed, and lower height. For example if I want to throw a fairway driver only 250-300' I can just throw it with 330+ power but 6' off the ground and it will hit the ground before gliding well past/fading. So sometimes a low ceiling shot or specific line requires a longer range disc, and you can adjust distance by throwing hard and low line drives rather than powering down.

 

[GripEnemy]

Don't forget you can also eliminate your Xstep and throw either a one step or standstill. That way you can still throw firm but reduce the distance your discs are going.

 

[Dan Ensor]

It all depends on the line. Slow discs fly straighter, fast discs fly less straight.

 

[Smigles]

Generally I dont like to throw less than 75% power so I use the slowest disc that gets to the basket. I drive my putters with the same form and powergrip that I drive my drivers.

There are many exceptions though like windy situations, low ceilings, crazy s-shapes or skips needed etc.

 

[Mike C]

Generally I try to avoid slowing down my throw, ever.

First I'll disc down. If we're throwing teebirds 300' and rocs 250' and its a 275' hole, I'd rather throw the roc and have a 25' putt in most situations, than try to power down a TB.

Next, I'll compact my throw. Lets say we drive putters 200' but we have a 150' approach shot on the hole we're playing. I'll eliminate my x-step and turn my hips/shoulders less, but keep everything else the same. Same arm speed, same snap.

Lastly, throwing a mold thats very overstable can also be a way to reduce distance without changing your throw. The same throw that gets a Roc 250' will put a Gator out 220' or so, for example. If there's a hyzer line its something to consider.

Trying to slow down the throw messes up the overall timing more in my experience, and the harder you snap a disc the more predictable its flight will be (assuming no OAT) because increased spin = more stable flights. So slowing down your arm speed and decreasing snap will reduce your distance, but also make your form AND the flight of the disc less predictable.

 

[sidewinder22]

Lots of good answers already. I agree with the throwing full swing theory as much as possible and clubbing up or down as needed.

As far as learning to throw slower discs, you need to throw them more upward and hyzer if they are turning over.

Also an alternative assuming there is room is to throw spike hyzers with faster discs at full swing for ranging shorter distances. You will often see pros doing this.

And another alternative is to throw the disc upside down/grenade.

 

[GripEnemy]

Funny how the general consensus in this thread is slower disc over powering down. I'll just leave this hereopcorn:


Are Overstable Mids Pointless?

 

[Timeetyo]

Generally I dont like to throw less than 75% power so I use the slowest disc that gets to the basket. I drive my putters with the same form and powergrip that I drive my drivers.

There are many exceptions though like windy situations, low ceilings, crazy s-shapes or skips needed etc.

This.

I find if I power down too much it throws off my timing and bad things tend to happen. I would much rather throw a "normal" throw with my roc3 than try to take something off my teebird. What you will find as you gain experience is that your comfort zone for how much you can power down comfortably will increase giving you more shaping options (powered down teebird will fly slightly different than full throw on roc3). For now though - grab a few of your favorite stable mids (roc3, buzzz, truth, etc.) and get used to them.