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You should note that the opening (basket rim to chain holder) is the same as a Mach 3. The width of the top is very close to a Mach 3. The basket is a lot narrower as you can tell. The chains are the same length as a Lightning DB-5. This version has 18 chains (I think, I'd have to go to the garage to check), the original had 20 or 24 but were of lighter chains. The heavier and fewer chain version catches much better.
Now that's a basket you can grill in!
So dude, you've been a member of this site since 2008... where ya been? What other cool stuff do you have hidden up your sleeve?
When I first joined I wrote a review or 2, but to write a review that I feel is solid is very time consuming (I'm very anal retentive). So only really review courses that I visit on road trips or courses that are off the beaten path that have no or few reviews.
If I may make a suggestion... considering the weak material that you have to work with on those grills, how about welding a metal "ring" around the inside of the lid? This ring would better be described as a band. This band would then have the eyelets from which you could hang the chains. For optimal strength, you could run a bead along the entire perimeter of the band. This would then spread the stress from the weight of the chains, as well as the sudden impact from discs hitting the chains, to the entire bead rather than a few weld points. This would also maintain the exterior integrity of the grill so that it looks like it's just a grill.
Now that's a basket you can grill in!
That is a great idea in theory, but when it comes down to it weight is the biggest enemy. One thing you have to consider is that all the weight of the top is on the center pole (thus the need for the internal supports, in version 2), adding a ring and that much material / welds could potentially make it worse. Plus the time to weld and grind all that would be lofty. The solution to drill and bolt the chains on has worked wonders as far as a time, ease, and strength standpoint go. One thing I could have done is used some bondo to keep the external grill integrity more intact. I had to use Bondo on this version to fill a couple of rust holes; I guess while at it I could have covered the bolt heads with bondo and sanded to a smooth even finish to conceal them. Food for thought for next time.
The only major improvement, other than being able to use it as a grill, is to add supports on the bottom much like I did for the top. On the original, the top was very flimsy, the supports really eliminated that. It however has shifted all the energy to the bottom of the pole where is connects to the bottom of the grill. It's attached via two thin plates welded to the pole, sandwiching the bottom of the grill. They are then welded to the gill and ground down to a smooth finish (very well hidden). These plates are stronger than just welding the pole to the grill (ala Version 1) but they still offer too much play. Version 3, if there is one, will have supports on the lower as well. The question is where to put them. For external esthetics one would say the inside like the upper. That however does 2 things, gives you more things to scuff a disc on in the "basket", more things in the way to keep it from being a grill, and it also keeps the energy on the junk material of the grill. The other option is to attach them to the pole and the legs on the external side of the gill; adds strength, and frees up the "Basket" for grilling and catching, but it further harms the external integrity of the grill ....... what to do??
Sorry for the long (Anal) reply ....... can you tell I've had 4 years to think about how to improve it
WOW, any links on how to get one, or price?
Just off the assembly line the 2011 Pine Basket. Same great lodgepole and pondersosa pine tenon jointed construction. New chain design for better catching. She will soon be delivered to her permanent home at The Hi-View Disc Golf Course in Sphinx Park/Pine Colorado.