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using white out as a liquid mask, does it work?

bigmanbailye

Birdie Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
474
no it does not work. it looks promising though. It was waterproof after it dries, it was pretty easy to paint on, and it doesn't dissolve after a dip. some how the dye in both the dip and the paint were able to get behind the liquid mask. I was very surprised because after I did the dye the whiteout was still intact. but you can see the before and after results yourself.

IMAG0503.jpg


IMAG0504.jpg


4 the dip, I had windows in the building masked out and for the paint I had stars masked out.
 
Great dye anyway. Maybe draw in the stars with Silver Sharpie.
 
I use elmers for painting, but not for dips. Some eventually dissolves off so you lose a hard masking line. Secondly, I save my dye and the collection of elmers residue can make your dye go bad. That is the next disc dyed with that color can have inconsistent coloring.
 
I use elmers for painting, but not for dips. Some eventually dissolves off so you lose a hard masking line. Secondly, I save my dye and the collection of elmers residue can make your dye go bad. That is the next disc dyed with that color can have inconsistent coloring.

Your so pro
 
Thanks, but I am no pro. I just like to try lots of things and share my results.
 
Cool, I'm a newb, but I'm taking before and after pics of different plastic and dye combo's. Maybe you can help throw down on a color chart so we can ruin a few less discs?

For instance I just tried to make a yellow champ green by applying blue iDye. It pretty much just turned brown though. And the blue is obviously too dark.
 
P.S. your avatar is what made me look up disc dying. I have a blue Blizzard I wanna do in the same color scheme and gift to a friend
 
Cool, I'm a newb, but I'm taking before and after pics of different plastic and dye combo's. Maybe you can help throw down on a color chart so we can ruin a few less discs?

For instance I just tried to make a yellow champ green by applying blue iDye. It pretty much just turned brown though. And the blue is obviously too dark.

yeah I went through that phase and decided it's really not worth it. If I want color on a disc I gotta buy a white or clear disc. the only exception is with a yellow disc, I will do some reds and oranges but that's about it.
 
Cool, I'm a newb, but I'm taking before and after pics of different plastic and dye combo's. Maybe you can help throw down on a color chart so we can ruin a few less discs?

For instance I just tried to make a yellow champ green by applying blue iDye. It pretty much just turned brown though. And the blue is obviously too dark.

I don't think anyone has put together a color chart for disc dyeing...god that would be so complex and there are so many variables. It's just the nature of the beast when it comes to dyeing anything. White base is always the safest bet for first-time accuracy, and the color/mixing chart on RIT's website can be really helpful. It's just way more complex than a simple color pallet and what most of us learned about color mixing in art class. Spend some time browsing around the threads on this forum...lots of good info, but it's mostly in individual comments.

For your yellow-to-green disc, I would have just used a green dye diluted quite a bit. Short dips and inspections...then concentrate the dye a little more if needed. I haven't used I-Dye yet, but depending on how they put together their blue, you might be able to do the same thing with a diluted mix. Best thing to do is get ahold of some junk test discs that you can apply color tests to. That, or ask specifically on here before you begin and be patient waiting for a reply.

When I miss a color (I usually end up darker than I intend), then I either live with it or sometimes I'll try to doctor it up with some marbling or other effects...departs from the original vision but I can usually end up with something that still looks nice. I tend to shoot for simple anyway, so that leaves me more room for repair. lol
 
Good advice guys, Yeah obviously the strength of the dye, the time in it, the temp, slight variations in plastic color all have a huge impact on the outcome. I let my Blue sit overnight on my yellow disc and now its a very dark blue/redish ink looking color.
 
Oh...wow...that's a really long time, even for a cold dye. Like I said, I haven't used it yet, but everyone says that I-Dye sets a lot faster and a lot more vibrant than what we're used to with RIT. With the normal hot water and RIT, I start checking after 3 minutes for lighter shades if I don't have experience with what I'm going for, and about 2-3 minutes after until I'm close to what I want. Sometimes there are drastic changes in just a minute or two. Just remember the golden rule that you can always go darker, but you can't go lighter or remove what you've done (unless you cover it up with a darker shade/color).
 
back on topic:
Hot glue works well, but can be a pain to take off if the disc isn't new and smooth, also difficult to "paint" with.
Crayon seems to have worked well (haven't tried it myself), but again, too much heat may be bad.
Spray glue did NOT work for me, but I only tried it once.
Silicone caulk might work, I don't know what its adhesion would be like.
Or maybe the white-out needs to be thicker? Or a different brand?
 
I've got some liquid mask from when I was into RC cars. The tough part is that it dries clear, and might be a serious PITA to remove. It sure isn't the cheapest stuff in the world. I've been thinking about trying it in the near future though and will let know know how it works.
 
Siliconized caulk is a better choice than silicone...and the cheapest 99 cent tubes are fine. It's less flexible and slightly less adhesive, so it's easier to remove but still won't give problems with bleeding. Pure silicone sticks like nobody's business and is a royal pita to remove sometimes. I can't remember what formulation the normal DAP sealer is, but it comes in a squeeze tube and works well.
 

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