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[Mids] Cycling mid range molds.

This is more like it.

I would think understable for all the the mountains and rivers and such being like dings. But does the wall around the edge of the world make it overstable like the Stego?
 
Just out of curiosity;

How many former mold cyclers do we have here?
Have any of you dropped cycling mids and gone the one disc one shot approach?

If so, how has it worked out?

See, I'm a crazy guy with feet in both camps. During tourney season, I have a carefully parsed out bag for competition, full of molds I've used for years and their fresher complements. I try and bag as few molds as possible but I still end up with quite a few since I FH almost as much as BH and like to keep a lot of those separate.

But then during the crappy weather season I use an all MVP/Axiom bag where the only molds I repeat are maybe Ions and Volts. It's a very mold maximalist bag. Because I don't play with these discs as much and b/c gyro is pretty stubborn to break in, this approach is natural.

They're both viable approaches but I still prefer cycling for all the reasons stated already and one that I don't think I've seen mentioned yet: Easier and cheaper to get backups for your throwers. I cycle Eagles so when I see an Eagle in the used bin I buy it and have a backup easily available to be pressed into service if need be. Thanks to cycling Eagles I know Eagles like the back of my hand so when I see a used Eagle I've already got a great idea of how it's going to fly. It's a lot easier than guessing what new mold off the shelf is going to fly the most like that Eagle I just threw in a pond. Not to mention the money you save when you buy in bulk like getting a stack of putters to practice with.
 
There is a Roc in my bag that has spent 7 years going from fresh to flippy. And I sometimes throw a 22 year old DX Ontario Roc.

Without judgment: you can't "cycle" anything for a few months.


This is why I don't cycle Rocs. That's an outrageously unreasonable length of time required to replace a lost disc. I play courses with OB water and discs need to be replaceable.
 
This is why I don't cycle Rocs. That's an outrageously unreasonable length of time required to replace a lost disc. I play courses with OB water and discs need to be replaceable.

You're missing the point. I have 10 Rocs I've paid anywhere from $3 to $10 for out of used bins, and other Rocs I have seasoned, that could slot RIGHT into that spot without a hiccup. Because I just throw Rocs for every midrange shot. I know how to make shots with Rocs. And I know how to buy Rocs cheap.
 
This is why I don't cycle Rocs. That's an outrageously unreasonable length of time required to replace a lost disc. I play courses with OB water and discs need to be replaceable.


I cycle Rocs and have one that's 15+ years old.

I would never throw that by or over water.

You can find cheap broken in Rocs pretty easily to fill the flippy spot.

It's not magic.
 
I don't think I expressed myself very well above, but feel like trying again.


My problem is with the term cycle.
Suppose a person starts a "cycle" of discs by beginning with one driver such as a Destroyer. He throws just that one disc for a while, and know that it serves the purpose for certain throws, but is just too overstable for many situations. So, he gets another Destroyer that turns out to be a bit less stable. With these two discs he now is able to cover more types of shots, and is happy with the results. But, over time, the less stable Destroyer becomes even more understable until he notices a gap between his Destroyers. For some reason, the more stable Destroyer is holding its stability, and is still quite overstable. So, he looks for another Destroyer to fill in the hole between these two discs. With some trial and error, he comes up with the new third Destroyer that perfectly fills the gap. Now, with three Destroyers to his arsenal, he feels very well served with what he has got.

Unfortunately, the most understable one is lost to an errant throw. He is now back to two Destroyers, and wants another to fill the place of the one that was lost. So, he once again searches, and over time acquires another Destroyer, perhaps a used one, that can approximate the flight of the one he lost. He uses these three Destroyers for a time, but eventually decides that the newest disc is in fact not quite a good replacement for the lost disc. So, he searches again, acquiring several candidates for the understable Destroyer spot, finally getting one that will serve.

Unfortunately again, he loses another Destroyer, the middle stability one. Since the most overstable disc still cannot replace it, he tests his growing pile of backup Destroyers for a candidate and replaces the missing middle stability disc.
Over time, the above scenario could be repeated multiple times. When a disc is lost, or its flight changes, it could be that none of the other molds currently bagged can truly replace it, so a replacement is sought out.

Has this person cycled Destroyers during this time? I would maintain that he has not. To me, a cycle requires that each disc is handed down to a less stable position in order. If the order is broken, then I do not like the term cycle for it.



In my hypothetical scenario, the only definite cycle is that the person looks outside for replacements. With this practice, a person could theoretically replace a disc with any other mold also. It need not be another Destroyer.


Just because a person has several of one type of mold in their bag does not necessarily mean that they are cycling that mold. So, when a person here states that they bag several of one mold, and are cycling, response is, "But are you? I have no way of really knowing." In fact, I think it would be a little too perfect in the real world if a person's cycle were in fact working out. Disc golf is just a little too messy to believe it.


If you have no way of knowing then it doesn't make any difference.
Yours is a peculiar hangup.
 
I don't think I expressed myself very well above, but feel like trying again.


My problem is with the term cycle.
Has this person cycled Destroyers during this time? I would maintain that he has not. To me, a cycle requires that each disc is handed down to a less stable position in order. If the order is broken, then I do not like the term cycle for it.

If you have no way of knowing then it doesn't make any difference.
Yours is a peculiar hangup.

This peculiar hangup also doesn't acknowledge how Frisbees and made and how they wear. Destroyers provide a perfect example.

Destroyers are all over the map (Rocs, less so, although, as I explained above, most brand new ones aren't as OS out of the box as some well-seasoned older ones). Some of the beefiest and most durable ones are OLD. My beefiest bagged Destroyers are two marbly yellow PFN *DS. Some new ones start beefy but wear faster. Some runs were never all that OS to start. No new one I have ever thrown touches these old pop-top *DS and S/DS destroyers, for overstability or durability.

My flippiest Destroyer is an AJ 3-line. It is also the "newest" Destroyer in my bag, in term of manufacture date. Next step up in stability is a 2-line, which is technically older than the 3-line. Then I have newer-still runs of star and pro that are beat into straight and/or flippy spots. I can slide them in and out of my bag as needed or wanted (sometimes, for example, I will put a seasoned pro in when I will be playing a course with high risks of losing one). Then, as my straight-to-fade pure distance Destroyers, I have two *Ds that are the "oldest" and most seasoned Destroyers in my setup. But they aren't the flippiest. Then, as I said, my meathooks are PFN *DS. They're old, and beat up super durable. They'll be overstable for years to come.

So this isn't a cycle since they started where they started and wore how they wore? What if I lose one and slot a used-bin find in to replace it? Cycle broken?
 
This peculiar hangup also doesn't acknowledge how Frisbees and made and how they wear. Destroyers provide a perfect example.

Destroyers are all over the map (Rocs, less so, although, as I explained above, most brand new ones aren't as OS out of the box as some well-seasoned older ones). Some of the beefiest and most durable ones are OLD. My beefiest bagged Destroyers are two marbly yellow PFN *DS. Some new ones start beefy but wear faster. Some runs were never all that OS to start. No new one I have ever thrown touches these old pop-top *DS and S/DS destroyers, for overstability or durability.

My flippiest Destroyer is an AJ 3-line. It is also the "newest" Destroyer in my bag, in term of manufacture date. Next step up in stability is a 2-line, which is technically older than the 3-line. Then I have newer-still runs of star and pro that are beat into straight and/or flippy spots. I can slide them in and out of my bag as needed or wanted (sometimes, for example, I will put a seasoned pro in when I will be playing a course with high risks of losing one). Then, as my straight-to-fade pure distance Destroyers, I have two *Ds that are the "oldest" and most seasoned Destroyers in my setup. But they aren't the flippiest. Then, as I said, my meathooks are PFN *DS. They're old, and beat up super durable. They'll be overstable for years to come.

So this isn't a cycle since they started where they started and wore how they wore? What if I lose one and slot a used-bin find in to replace it? Cycle broken?



This is a great explanation. My only thing is I believe that the mcbeef runs are the most overstable and have the least glide. The S/DS runs are the most throwable overstable destroyer because they glide. That being said I don't see a point in throwing destroyers over outlaws or scorpiuses because finding throwable destroyers can cost you a pretty penny.


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Does anyone else feel dirty for paying pennies for a beat Roc because they know how invaluable it really is?

I felt so dirty when i grabbed a I-dye KC Teebird that looked like it was used frequently during it's 8 years (tagged with bagging year of former pro) for 5$... At least he knew what he was selling. :)
 
I'll share my experience in cycling vs many molds. I have played for about 4 years so I can't talk about ultra long disc cycles, but I have tried both approaches and landed somewhere inbetween leaning towards cycling. My favorite driver is a well seasoned S-line PD that turns over just the right amount and comes back gently. I also carry a straight C-line PD and beefy C-line PD. About a year ago I thought that this S-line is perfect and it's time to add another one. I started to play with a fresh S-line and after 2 months it hadn't changed one bit. Still super beef (probably a different run PD). I started to be so scared of losing it that the disc took a back seat in my bag. To this day I haven't been able to season one to the same level or replace it with a different mold. I do have a CD2 and fresh champ Valkyrie in my bag now that give me similar options and it's very comforting to know that I can grab a fresh disc from the store and it's not too far off of my favorite. Anyway, this 'scared to throw' attitude cannot be good for your confidence and scores. So IMO cycling is great, just make sure you know what you can use as replacements at all times.

Another thing is that I love trying out new discs and that's part of the fun for me with this hobby. Seeing different discs fly differently. I could never be a "pure" cycler in that sense :D

Now to OP's question. I am currently cycling glo z buzzzes and it took me 1 year to season one to pretty understable. Currently have 3 in the bag and it works pretty well. But I must say I liked how Rocs season in better. My buzzzes lose HSS more than LSS and I feel like Rocs held HSS better, so I'm considering going back to Rocs. Also interested in how long the current MD4s hold their stability. This thing is comfort city in my hands.
 
I'll share my experience in cycling vs many molds. I have played for about 4 years so I can't talk about ultra long disc cycles, but I have tried both approaches and landed somewhere inbetween leaning towards cycling. My favorite driver is a well seasoned S-line PD that turns over just the right amount and comes back gently. I also carry a straight C-line PD and beefy C-line PD. About a year ago I thought that this S-line is perfect and it's time to add another one. I started to play with a fresh S-line and after 2 months it hadn't changed one bit. Still super beef (probably a different run PD). I started to be so scared of losing it that the disc took a back seat in my bag. To this day I haven't been able to season one to the same level or replace it with a different mold. I do have a CD2 and fresh champ Valkyrie in my bag now that give me similar options and it's very comforting to know that I can grab a fresh disc from the store and it's not too far off of my favorite. Anyway, this 'scared to throw' attitude cannot be good for your confidence and scores. So IMO cycling is great, just make sure you know what you can use as replacements at all times.

Another thing is that I love trying out new discs and that's part of the fun for me with this hobby. Seeing different discs fly differently. I could never be a "pure" cycler in that sense :D

Now to OP's question. I am currently cycling glo z buzzzes and it took me 1 year to season one to pretty understable. Currently have 3 in the bag and it works pretty well. But I must say I liked how Rocs season in better. My buzzzes lose HSS more than LSS and I feel like Rocs held HSS better, so I'm considering going back to Rocs. Also interested in how long the current MD4s hold their stability. This thing is comfort city in my hands.

Cycling Glo-Z?? Oh boy! I have thrown z and esp buzzes my entire golf "career" (I've only been playing for a year) but, I smacked like a million trees with all of my mids(drivers too, well and throwing putters for that matter) and I couldn't season anything quite as much as I want to. I've recently developed a love for base line, so I tried some X plastic, I love it at first then after a couple smacks you have a perfect buzz then you seriously gash one and it's done(same with pro-D but way worse way faster) so after researching some baseline plastics I've grown fond of zero hard, and gateways suregrip. So that's the way I'm going and I plan to bookend my cycle with a premium of the same mold and a similar mold but understable (to achieve slightly different lines than maybe my seasoned go to might not be able to get, and maybe even drop that mold after I beat one to death.
 
yes Glo Z. Quite surprisingly the first bit of stability goes out pretty fast. I wish that the exact flight of a brand new glo-z buzzz would last longer. It's really only noticeable with 300+ft throws and the difference is subtle, but it's there. After that it beats in very slowly. I have played lots of 2 disc rounds in the woods with my oldest buzzz, so that helps too :)
 
You're missing the point. I have 10 Rocs I've paid anywhere from $3 to $10 for out of used bins, and other Rocs I have seasoned, that could slot RIGHT into that spot without a hiccup. Because I just throw Rocs for every midrange shot. I know how to make shots with Rocs. And I know how to buy Rocs cheap.

Oh I've got the point. I've bought discs out of used bins too, but you don't know what you're getting til you throw it. Having to find a used one with the right seasoning, or take time to season it, just makes replacement more complicated. I prefer to keep it simple, and not be scared to throw the discs I carry.

"never throw it by or over water" <-- what fun is that? :D
 
Oh I've got the point. I've bought discs out of used bins too, but you don't know what you're getting til you throw it. Having to find a used one with the right seasoning, or take time to season it, just makes replacement more complicated. I prefer to keep it simple, and not be scared to throw the discs I carry.

"never throw it by or over water" <-- what fun is that? :D

Seems to me that it doesn't matter what it does when you throw it then you'll know and if you only throw that mold then you'll have a spot/use for it.
 
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