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MVP Disc Sports - Official Thread

discspeed said:
I just dropped all my proton mids because I am just like the feel of Neutron much better. Neutron is much grippier, especially when it is not warm and humid here.
I just got home from playing a round with temperatures in the mid 40's and niether of my vectors felt very good. The neutron plastic was better but not great. On the other hand my older opaque proton Ion felt really nice.
 
chainsmoker said:
discspeed said:
I just dropped all my proton mids because I am just like the feel of Neutron much better. Neutron is much grippier, especially when it is not warm and humid here.
I just got home from playing a round with temperatures in the mid 40's and niether of my vectors felt very good. The neutron plastic was better but not great. On the other hand my older opaque proton Ion felt really nice.

46F for me today and i futzed with different grips and the best results to avoid slipping with came the base of the thumb on the flight plate, thumb otherwise in the Jenkins orientation, thumb well to the inside of the disc maybe an inch and a quarter inward of the outer edge and three finger power grip with the bottom of the disc in the outer joints of the fingers. With Neutron Axis, Anode and Ion. I took a few weeks nightly treatment of argan oil and i have slightly better skin grippyness now but i also had to take a month off of throwing too.

The N 172 Axis is fairly flat flatter than Protons and Eclipses and thus it seems to be faster. The only wind direction i could throw with traction on the tertiary field i use was rear wind and for best distance i had to throw it high. It was very difficult to achieve from slips before i dropped the base of the thumb onto the flight plate. And man that thing added insane D. I wish it would have been possible to throw on my normal training field so that i could have gotten accurate results. And been able to test headwind performance. Normally Teebirds fly to where the tallest rear wind Axis shots landed. I smashed as hard as i could and the disc wouldn't flip. On the other hand a couple of degrees of anny was held to the ground with a 100' approach. So there is still a lot of sideways movement per missed hyzer angle degree. OTOH tight turns and long shots with this and placement shots from a Roc are just fine combo. Buzz would overlap more. another way to look at the Axis is to say that it really rewards hitting your hyzer angle a lot because it is very straight on a flat shot and moves predictably a lot sideways when tilted.

Neutron 172 Anode is the straightest Anode and with more user error tolerance grip wise so i can't say if that is semantically correct to say that it is more HSS than older iterations of Anodes. It may be it may not but on the course it should be more dependable. A huge thumbs up!

Neutron Ion 168 turns the tiniest amount if i don't smash as hard as i can. The fade is minimally more than with the Anode. I haven't putted with either.

I got mixed results of my 168 Neutron Volt. No disc has ever tugged my fingers as hard as often. Gyroscopics? Thrown with nose flat it turns more than i prefer around 4 degrees with taller throws than i normally use for disc golf throws. Just like the Neutron Axis the distance changes greatly with apex height in rear wind. Thrown high i got it to around 370-380' with an s-curve. So pretty far vs my max D. When i dropped the front of the disc lower than the rear the disc flipped a lot more and the s-curve started with a way wider turn with a fade that left the disc about 40-50' right of the initial direction with a high throw. Had it been a normal low line drive height the disc would have cut rolled. I got a light one based on how discspeed said that the lighter ones are more gyroscopic. How much less would a 175 flip and how much more does it fade? The Volt 168 is not a straight disc with the flip and the fade that is harder than Leo and River. As such this disc is more of a turn right, s-curve and straight then left disc than a laser like those two. A different role which is fine in itself but overlapping with a bunch of older designs and not too useful on the courses around me. Without the rear wind the situation might change a lot toward a straighter finish which would be nice for my needs and preferences.
 
chainsmoker said:
discspeed said:
I just dropped all my proton mids because I am just like the feel of Neutron much better. Neutron is much grippier, especially when it is not warm and humid here.
I just got home from playing a round with temperatures in the mid 40's and niether of my vectors felt very good. The neutron plastic was better but not great. On the other hand my older opaque proton Ion felt really nice.

I should add that the slanted inside lip on the vector didn't help either. The vector isn't as slanted as a Roc+ but the slant on the inside of the rim combined with the cold ruined the feel for me.
 
chainsmoker said:
chainsmoker said:
discspeed said:
I just dropped all my proton mids because I am just like the feel of Neutron much better. Neutron is much grippier, especially when it is not warm and humid here.
I just got home from playing a round with temperatures in the mid 40's and niether of my vectors felt very good. The neutron plastic was better but not great. On the other hand my older opaque proton Ion felt really nice.

I should add that the slanted inside lip on the vector didn't help either. The vector isn't as slanted as a Roc+ but the slant on the inside of the rim combined with the cold ruined the feel for me.

I've got an old dx Roc, a Z Buzzz, and a N Vector here. All the rims are slanted, aka not 90 degrees. The Buzzz and Vector are the same...but have less than 5 degrees more slant than the Roc. It's strange that in all the years since the Buzzz came out no one ever brought anything up about it's rim being slightly more slanted than the Roc, yet when the Roc+ started using slightly more slant than the Buzzz all hell broke loose.
 
I'm sure there is some variations but I don't have any discs that have a slant except a couple newer dx Rocs and a couple vectors. I also do not throw a ton of different plastic, the last Buzz I threw was 4-5 years ago and I didn't like the way it flew and I never bought one. The first new mold dx Roc I bought was from a guy selling discs at a local course, I put the disc in my bag and the first time I grabbed it i said wtf.
All I was saying is the angle is there. I like the vector enough and slant is small enough that I will get used to it but in my hand the rim feels a little strange still.
 
So in the Amp thread DS and I swapped volts so I could test out one that was confirmed as not flippy. The red volt I got in is definitely more stable than the pink one I sent DS. It also feels a little deeper but I think that is due to the fact it has a slight dome to it. It still isn't as stable as I would like it but it is a much better disc than the first ones I had. This one has made the tester bag for a while
 
Frank Delicious said:
So in the Amp thread DS and I swapped volts so I could test out one that was confirmed as not flippy. The red volt I got in is definitely more stable than the pink one I sent DS. It also feels a little deeper but I think that is due to the fact it has a slight dome to it. It still isn't as stable as I would like it but it is a much better disc than the first ones I had. This one has made the tester bag for a while

I've thrown about a dozen Volts now...Two were a little more stable than the others (domey pink, domey blue), and Frank's pink he sent me along with another flat yellow I have are considerable less stable than the others. The rest are very similar (and pretty much like the one I sent you Frank). Now I feel fairly comfortable rating the Volt 9/5/-2/2. FWIW the understable Volts are working a little more reliably for me than my Amps because they still want to fade/pull out of a turn if given a chance.

I'm really digging the Volt as a PD compliment...It flies more like a beat PD than any of Innova/Discmania's other drivers. Right now I've got two yellow champystar PDs alongside 2 Volts.
 
So I'm late to the party...

I've been throwing Ions for a year and a half but have struggled on approaches from 150-200' where I used to throw my 167 soft ion putter for stable staight finishes. My OAT problem occasionally flips me, especially when I'm tring to push it further. I had a 171 soft proton Anode and it faded more than I was expecting at the time so I traded it quickly thinking it was too much fade in the woods. I got several 168 med ion that fly stable with cleaner releases but when I'm playing tourneys at more open courses I worry that a good wind will push it around. This past fall I noticed I'd lose a shot or two during a tourney because I wasn't close enough to make the putt. I figured I'd by a 175 neutron Ion to solve my stablitiy issues but the thing is damn near a meathook in the woods. I finally broke down and tried the 170 neutron anode and I like it. It doesn't fade anymore than my seasoned 167 soft ion but has the HSS to help my confidence. I'm hoping for a lot more scramble saves this year.

How should I expect the neutron anode to break in? If its going to lose HSS and go flippy, I think I'll spend the winter working on approaching with my qms.
 

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