Noobie Dye Question Thread

[pfpro]

You can mix with several things - you can go back through the threads - but mix with water is standard. You can mix with acetone to get a stronger dye. You can mix with dishwasher soap for a more viscous solution. I think it kind of depends on the dyeing technique.

Personally, I don't use any heat, so I mix my dye powder with water. Then I mix with shaving cream (either on a bed, or painted on). Usually have to do several applications to get a dark color. I need to try out the soap solution this winter.

 

[kfeldt]

And I ran up to another problem right after I send the post above.

I tested the remasking on some of the area that was already painted to prevent the scenario above. Well after I ripped the mask of, I noticed that it took some of the color with it making the remasked area lighter then before.

I'm having some real troubles keeping the colors right and the lines sharp.

I start the next color right after I have rinsed the disc. Would more time between colors help?

I'll take a crack at your questions since no one else has:

- Mask lifting some color: Yes, this happens, and I haven't figured out a way around it. I try to mask the dyed area completely so that the color is lifted more-or-less uniformly. At least this way, you don't see any lines between the masked and unmasked areas.

- Rubbing alcohol blurring colors: I think the problem here is that you're using rubbing alcohol. If I'm doing a multicolor dye, I usually do a combination multiple dips (water and Idye), with remasking as necessary, and paint dye on with an Idye and hand lotion mix. I know some people use shaving cream or dish soap for painting, but the lotion works for me. The downside is that it does take quite a while for the dye to set, but I haven't seen where it blurs lines or other colors. The idea is that you're using something that's not going to lift other dye. I know there are guys on the board that use some kind of acetone mix for painting; hopefully one of them will chime in. Maybe try using less alcohol in your mix?

Keith

 

[roggenb3]

I'm working on my first multicolor dyes with iDye and ran into a serious problem with colors mixing to each others.
I've been using rubbing alcohol + iDye and I brush this mix on stencil. This works great if I'd do dyes only with one color. With the multicolor dyes I start by brushing the black on. But when I use another color (yellow or red for example), the alcohol on these mix's seems to dissolve the already painted black color and mix it into the just painted area. It also makes lines blurry. I know that this could be avoided by masking the black dyed area again, but with pics that has lots of details, it would take ages. And black will not take any real damage if you paint lighter colors on it. It's different with other colors which will of course turn into another color if you paint on them without remasking.
But I'm lazy so is there a shortcut somewhere? I have rinsed the disc carefully with warm runny water evereytime before I start the next color to get rid of excess color.

My suggestion is to avoid rubbing alcohol/acetone when painting. I just use a mix of idye and laundry detergent when painting. It is likely the acetone/rubbing alcohol that is messing with your already dyed black section. I run into this same problem when spin painting, because for spin painting I do normally add a drop or two of acetone, so I have to be very careful not to overlap the circles or they will bleed into each other.

And I ran up to another problem right after I send the post above.

I tested the remasking on some of the area that was already painted to prevent the scenario above. Well after I ripped the mask of, I noticed that it took some of the color with it making the remasked area lighter then before.

Yup, not really any way to avoid this other than making sure that you remask ALL the areas that already have dye so that they are all made lighter by the same amount. Don't forget about the air bubbles either.

 

[roggenb3]

If I'm doing a multicolor dye, I usually do a combination multiple dips (water and Idye), with remasking as necessary, and paint dye on with an Idye and hand lotion mix.

Interesting....never heard of this one before. Probably makes for a nice consistency. I might need to try that.

 

[pecosROB]

Noob here - would the discs I've seen with badass pictures/logos on it be considered dyed discs? Or is that an entirely different category on its own? I noticed marshallstreetdiscgolf.com has some pretty sweet and crazy looking discs, didn't know if there were others that sold the more personalized discs.

 

[roggenb3]

Noob here - would the discs I've seen with badass pictures/logos on it be considered dyed discs? Or is that an entirely different category on its own? I noticed marshallstreetdiscgolf.com has some pretty sweet and crazy looking discs, didn't know if there were others that sold the more personalized discs.

This all depends on what exactly you mean by "badass pictures/logos". MarshallStreet does indeed sell dyed discs, but they also have supercolors, which are not really dyes.

From MS's homepage there are category links down the left side. There are seperate links for stencil dyes and supercolors.

 

[Timesby]

My suggestion is to avoid rubbing alcohol/acetone when painting. I just use a mix of idye and laundry detergent when painting. It is likely the acetone/rubbing alcohol that is messing with your already dyed black section. I run into this same problem when spin painting, because for spin painting I do normally add a drop or two of acetone, so I have to be very careful not to overlap the circles or they will bleed into each other.



Yup, not really any way to avoid this other than making sure that you remask ALL the areas that already have dye so that they are all made lighter by the same amount. Don't forget about the air bubbles either.

Thanks! I studied a bit how to paint with laundry detergent mix. And I got a nice bright red right next to a black area without blurring the lines or mixing
the black to the red.

Next time I'll paint the black areas with rubbing alcohol mix, because it's way faster. And then I'll use laundry detergent mix's or others alike to other colors especially if remasking the whole area is not possible. This laundry detergent just takes a bit too much time to set. But there does not seem to be any shortcuts?

 

[Eky8]

If you can add heat you can get the detergent mix to take faster. The problem is that it only really dyes if the dye is wet. Once you add heat the dye dries out and it doesn't dye as well. Any method I have tried has had mixed results at best so I just have patience and let the dye sit for a while.

 

[roggenb3]

If you can add heat you can get the detergent mix to take faster. The problem is that it only really dyes if the dye is wet. Once you add heat the dye dries out and it doesn't dye as well. Any method I have tried has had mixed results at best so I just have patience and let the dye sit for a while.

I kind of flip flop between using just heat (maybe 120 degrees), letting discs sit in with the wet dye, and a combination of both. I can't say I can tell the difference between any of those methods. If I had to choose I would say 4 hours in heat works better than 24 hours at room temp, but it's a toss up.

Example: This Mace was in heat for only 2 hours

It was done in spring and still looks exactly like this. I would say most often recently I am using heat for roughly 3-4 hours, then pulling them out, letting the dye absorb some moisture and sit overnight - seems to be working very well.

 

[roggenb3]

As a note to the above post, one reason I like heat for a disc like that Mace is because it dries out the dye a bit, which prevents all the colors from running off the disc and/or bleeding together more than I want.

 

[hurricane7]

I kind of flip flop between using just heat (maybe 120 degrees), letting discs sit in with the wet dye, and a combination of both. I can't say I can tell the difference between any of those methods. If I had to choose I would say 4 hours in heat works better than 24 hours at room temp, but it's a toss up.

Example: This Mace was in heat for only 2 hours

It was done in spring and still looks exactly like this. I would say most often recently I am using heat for roughly 3-4 hours, then pulling them out, letting the dye absorb some moisture and sit overnight - seems to be working very well.

Roggenb3,
The color on that Mace is incredible! :clap: Was that done all at one time, or multiples? What method of dye application was used? Shaving cream bed? What is the heat source you used? Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks,
-Jeff

 

[roggenb3]

Roggenb3,
The color on that Mace is incredible! :clap: Was that done all at one time, or multiples? What method of dye application was used? Shaving cream bed? What is the heat source you used? Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks,
-Jeff

1) All at once
2) Just straight detergent/dye mix painted onto the disc. "Painted" may not be the best term, I use an eyedropper, so the layer of detergent is quite thick. Essentially trying to make a "nebula" bed, but straight onto the disc rather than on a base and then setting the disc on top.
3) Heat source is just my oven. I turn it all the way down to Warm, and then turn it on for just about 1 min - that gets the oven to roughly 120ish (I don't know exactly just an educated guess as I don't have a thermometer, I get it warm, but not hot).

 

[hurricane7]

1) All at once
2) Just straight detergent/dye mix painted onto the disc. "Painted" may not be the best term, I use an eyedropper, so the layer of detergent is quite thick. Essentially trying to make a "nebula" bed, but straight onto the disc rather than on a base and then setting the disc on top.
3) Heat source is just my oven. I turn it all the way down to Warm, and then turn it on for just about 1 min - that gets the oven to roughly 120ish (I don't know exactly just an educated guess as I don't have a thermometer, I get it warm, but not hot).

Very cool! Thanks for sharing!

Peace,
-Jeff

 

[roggenb3]

Stamp removal trouble.

Anyone ever ruin a disc by taking the stamp off?

I was removing the stamps on a stack of discs and had 2 where that happened badly. A Frontline-X Mortar with a red stamp, and a Gold line Core with a green stamp. See attached pic.

Acetone dissolved the stamps as easily as ever, but the dissolved stamp then badly stained the discs. I had not encountered this before...has anyone else?

I also had this happen to a much lesser extent with a purple stamp on a Star Teebird, and I have a black stamp on a Star Roadrunner that simply refuses to come off cleanly (but at least that one did not stain the disc). Anyone know if Innova changed their stamps recently? They normally come off so cleanly.

 

[hurricane7]

Anyone ever ruin a disc by taking the stamp off?

I was removing the stamps on a stack of discs and had 2 where that happened badly. A Frontline-X Mortar with a red stamp, and a Gold line Core with a green stamp. See attached pic.

Acetone dissolved the stamps as easily as ever, but the dissolved stamp then badly stained the discs. I had not encountered this before...has anyone else?

I also had this happen to a much lesser extent with a purple stamp on a Star Teebird, and I have a black stamp on a Star Roadrunner that simply refuses to come off cleanly (but at least that one did not stain the disc). Anyone know if Innova changed their stamps recently? They normally come off so cleanly.

Had that happen to me with this Millennium Aries,

hence the full cover of spin dye! Stamp was black with silver under if I remember correctly.

I have had some luck removing some stamps with 99% IPA (not the beer ). It requires a bit more elbow grease, but does not attack the plastic whatsoever.

Peace,
-Jeff

 

[kfeldt]

Interesting, I'm also currently having a terrible time trying to get a black stamp off of a white Star Teebird. It is slowly coming off, but it's taking a lot of elbow grease. I'm not sure what the problem is, I've wiped plenty of stamps off of Star discs without much trouble.

I've not had the ink from a stamp stain a disc before, but I usually try to wipe up the ink from the stamp pretty quickly as I'm taking it off.

Keith

 

[GirdleRoc]

Are there any risks to dying a disc that has been thrown?

I am going to wash and scrub it real good.

 

[kfeldt]

Are there any risks to dying a disc that has been thrown?

I am going to wash and scrub it real good.

It should work OK. Like you said, wash it thoroughly. The main problem you could run into is bleeds due to scratches in the disc.

Keith

 

[GirdleRoc]

It should work OK. Like you said, wash it thoroughly. The main problem you could run into is bleeds due to scratches in the disc.

Keith

Awesome thanks!

We are doing mostly Tye Dye discs just to spruce up a bunch of our factroy seconds my friend and I have.

 

[Eky8]

Anyone ever ruin a disc by taking the stamp off?

I was removing the stamps on a stack of discs and had 2 where that happened badly. A Frontline-X Mortar with a red stamp, and a Gold line Core with a green stamp. See attached pic.

Acetone dissolved the stamps as easily as ever, but the dissolved stamp then badly stained the discs. I had not encountered this before...has anyone else?

I also had this happen to a much lesser extent with a purple stamp on a Star Teebird, and I have a black stamp on a Star Roadrunner that simply refuses to come off cleanly (but at least that one did not stain the disc). Anyone know if Innova changed their stamps recently? They normally come off so cleanly.

I've had this problem several times usually with red stamps. But also with blue. I've also had a few black stamps that refuse to completely come off.